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Early 260z L28et swap wiring issues


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I just bought my first Z and I'm in love with it!

 

I'm trying to figure out this wiring harness, its a rats nest from the previous owner and I can't find the exact info I need.

 

First, is the ignition harness part of the car? or is it a separate harness like the EFI? Idk if the 260 had EFI. I know there is an external fuel pump on it the electrical.

 

Second, would the car start without the knock sensor? i'm plan to get one but I just want to start up the car.

 

I will post up pics later tonight when I get home.

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Was the swap already done when you bought the car or are you swapping it?.

 

Besides the harness for the ecu, the ignition harness should be part of the efi harness. You can run new wires from the igntion switch and fuse box to operate the fuel pump and starter if desired.

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It was in the process of the swap when I bought it.

 

I know there plugs for the ignition harness but my question is, if there's another harness for the ignition thats seperate from the car like the EFI harness.

 

Here are the pics.

 

All this wiring is hacked up. This is the plugs for the ignition harness right?

 

7219151904_d9cb4bb2fe_z.jpg

 

Don't know what these are. I think they are to water temp, its next to the round plug.

 

7219152736_84056ed4c3_z.jpg

 

No clue what these are.

 

7219149240_e6f0994a2f_z.jpg

 

I know this is the MAF plug. is it suppose to have 4 wires?

 

7219150160_1d20b3b0d6_z.jpg

 

Air reg and TPS, same question is two wires ok?

 

7219150958_b349a43a65_z.jpg

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The two by the round plug are water temp, one to the ecu and one for the gauge.

Not sure about the afm plug, i'm not by my car to verify, but check the plug for a pin in the empty spot. It might have been the wire to the air temp sensor that was cut.

The tps on the turbo engine has only two wires, the n/a gets three.

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I got a few more pics of the car's wiring, please hlep me figure this out!

 

Here is the ignition switch, There is a speaker wire spliced into the black w/white strip wire.

 

7222155826_f1e5d4423f_z.jpg

 

That wire leads into the bay into this

 

7222158146_ea4180057b_z.jpg

 

Then to this, the black wire is loose and the blue wire splices into a plug, The plug that was in the coil, there was a loose brown wire that turns into a green wire on that plug too.

 

7222160160_48db06ff56_z.jpg

 

On the passenger side foot well, there was this plug that was loose, it has a wire thats spliced into a wire in the other plug.

 

7222641586_6619555172_z.jpg

 

Not sure where the white plug goes, it comes off the body harness, same with the other.

 

7222164566_d47bd378bc_z.jpg

 

This wire is hooked up to the POS terminal and spliced into a big wire wire in the body harness.

 

7222163450_d8fc6dd0c2_z.jpg

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You need to get the Factory Service Manuals for your two cars - the S30 that's your frame and the S130 the engine came out of. It'll probably be helpful to find someone with an intact engine harness to show you what yours should actually look like and what everything does. If you're good at following electrical diagrams you'll figure all that out...

 

A little clarification on something posted above:

The two single wires to the thermostat housing = yellow wire to temperature sender (Thermal Transmitter - not actually part of the ECCS system, just runs the coolant temperature gauge in the cockpit) On the L28ET it's the sensor without a little wire coming out of it.

 

The sensor with the little wire is a temperature switch (Thermotime Switch or Water Temperature Switch) - the white wire goes to this sensor. You'll probably never use this one. It's not part of the ECCS system either. On the 280ZX, this switch will run the Injector Blower to cool off the injectors and fuel rail if the coolant temp is very hot when the engine is shut off. You'd need to have the blower and it's controller box installed and wired properly for that function to work. Mine has never been operational.

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I bought it from nick at Raw Brokerage, who bought it from him.

 

Too funny. That was my car at one point too. I paid $800 and sold it to Dalton for $1300. It sat in my garage for a year and I never touched it.

 

My cousin in IL did that "mess" your dealing with now.

 

History I know on it. Someone in AK sold it to my Cousin -> Ray in Kissimme -> JSM (Jeff) -> Dalton and you know the rest.

 

That is a very solid car though.

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So JSM has given us "The List"...

 

Who's up for a Punishment Road Trip?

 

I'll bring the oak and hickory sticks...

 

Lets avenge the gods of wiring!!!

Edited by Tony D
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Thanks for the input guys!

 

Jeff then can you help me sort it out a bit?

 

Because it was such a mess I was going to remove it and start over. Sometimes it is just easier that way. I never once even tried to start the car.

 

Oddly enough, when I bought it, it was down due to a believed AFM. I think the intake boot was bad in actuality (Between MAF and turbo).

 

That is an NA block with the conversion thrown on. Not sure if you knew that.

 

Additionally, you will want to drain the tank. The car sat outside for about 2 years and in my garage for a year and who knows how long since you’ve got since it is not running.

 

Your best bet is to read all the Turbo sticky’s and get familiar with the FSM and all the diagrams.

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So JSM has given us "The List"...

 

Who's up for a Punishment Road Trip?

 

I'll bring the oak and hickory sticks...

 

Lets avenge the gods of wiring!!!

 

I was also told the entire engine harness was cut and respliced back together! The AK owner was going to do a V8 swap and simply cut it out!?

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Not sure where the white plug goes, it comes off the body harness, same with the other.

 

7222164566_d47bd378bc_z.jpg

 

That white plug with the funny shape is supposed to go to the alternator, that little female bullet held under your thumb goes to the oil pressure sender unit, as far as that black one goes im at a loss

my 2cents

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Have you thought about buying a megasquirt box and getting the efi harness for the megasquirt?. By the looks of the harness pics you posted, I see electrical gremlins just waiting to pounce. I would seriously look into doing that. You can find used megasquirt setups for under $400.00 bucks.

 

If you can't go that route, buy new injector harness connectors and sensor connectors. 12 gauge wire and run new wires into the cars harness. Doing that has to be better then trying to save that harness, its rough.

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There's only 25 pins used at the ECCS connector. The purpose of each is shown in the FSM. A little time with an ohm-meter and you'd probably have it figured out. Just saying'. Always good to double-check anyway. Plus you can test the components on the ends of the wires at the same time.

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Because it was such a mess I was going to remove it and start over. Sometimes it is just easier that way. I never once even tried to start the car.

 

Oddly enough, when I bought it, it was down due to a believed AFM. I think the intake boot was bad in actuality (Between MAF and turbo).

 

That is an NA block with the conversion thrown on. Not sure if you knew that.

 

Additionally, you will want to drain the tank. The car sat outside for about 2 years and in my garage for a year and who knows how long since you’ve got since it is not running.

 

Your best bet is to read all the Turbo sticky’s and get familiar with the FSM and all the diagrams.

 

 

I was also told the entire engine harness was cut and respliced back together! The AK owner was going to do a V8 swap and simply cut it out!?

 

 

So it's an L26?

and btw does it have a newer gas tank for EFI?

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The block is stamped for what size engine it is so look for which block is in the car. Nothing is wrong with an NA L28 engine fitted with turbo parts. Thats what im running. :D

 

Have you decided what your going to do with your harness yet?.

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So it's an L26?

and btw does it have a newer gas tank for EFI?

 

I think it was an L28 but I don't exactly remember. I was going to swap it.

 

No it did not have a newer tank. That was also an issue I recall from the Ray the owner I bought it from.

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