CArFAn Posted May 27, 2012 Share Posted May 27, 2012 So i got my 7m swap up and running and still runing stock boost levels with bad bad/bald tires. I take it out for a shake down run and i get on it a few times. Everything holds up fine so i come home, BUT on the way home i got on it one last time down my street. And well "ALL HELL BROKE LOOSE". Pics speak for them self. I believe the passenger side let go which then caused: Power to sent to my driver side wheel which caused: Then after that happen this happened: But any way i have been reading and reading about rear end swaps and what parts are needed to make it work but i have not found anything definitive. All the post thus far have been "will post back with results" then it goes dead. I know how to do the r200 swap but i don't have any 280z's that i can pull parts from a member here has offered to sell me one but i don't have the half-shafts nor the diff mount's or mustache bar. Which leaves me with two viable options. One being swap a front diff from a datsun 4x4 pickup which should bolt right nothing needed but new u-joints for my half shafts. Two would be to swap in a subaru diff which is suppose to be a direct swap but im having trouble finding info on the half shaft situation. If anyone knows about or has done the subaru swap please reply here. Btw i cant afford the sti swap i wish i could. Or if you know any other direct swap that will bolt up to the stock half shafts using the diff output and the z input?? idk im tired.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted May 27, 2012 Share Posted May 27, 2012 So sorry, dude. Thanks for posting the pictures. You can't get stronger without spending money, time or both. . You may have just had a bad axle. If you are short on bucks, get you another stock setup and run it till it breaks again. What chassis is your car? 240z, 280z, zx? It will make a difference in your options Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CArFAn Posted May 27, 2012 Author Share Posted May 27, 2012 Completely forgot about that my car is a 73 240z. Im looking at getting another r180 from a pickup its looking like my only option right now and since pick n pull is 50% this week it makes sense. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted May 27, 2012 Share Posted May 27, 2012 You're not showing broken differential parts. Why do you need to change your differential? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CArFAn Posted May 27, 2012 Author Share Posted May 27, 2012 Spider gears were welded, dont want welded diff anymore. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted May 27, 2012 Share Posted May 27, 2012 Sounds like the easiest way to get back on the road to me. The pickup front diff will work. I ran one for years. It may be a low ratio. Mine was either 4:10 or 4:11. If I recall the only thing you may need to change is your input flange. You will need an impact wrench and a 27m socket to change it. The last 3 drivetrain failures I've seen posted were due to welded diffs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rags Posted May 27, 2012 Share Posted May 27, 2012 Forgive my ignorance but isn't the pickup front diff also an R180 which would make the stub axle the same diameter as the broken one in the picture? Since you have a 73, the diff mounting position is in the correct place for an R200 swap so all you would need is a diff and mustache bar. Joe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted May 27, 2012 Share Posted May 27, 2012 Sure, i agree. He just stated that he was tired and short on cash so I was just being supportive of his plan as the most simple, quick and least expensive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CArFAn Posted May 27, 2012 Author Share Posted May 27, 2012 May have a line on a r200 and possible cv's from a member here. Thanks for the info -RebekahsZ and -rags. If the deal goes through all I need is a mustache bar, but I hear with the 73 you can flip it around and redrill the holes to accommodate the larger studs on the r200. That true? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted May 27, 2012 Share Posted May 27, 2012 (edited) Don't know about flipping the mustache bar, but I don't think so.... I just bought an R200 280z mustache bar from a forum member. There was one on ebay last week - may still be there. The mounting bolts on a R180 are 12mm, on an R200 they are 14mm. That steel is really hard unless you have a drill press...don't' try to drill the new holes lying on your back. I assume the holes are centered on the bar, but I don't know if that is true. Only 4 bolts to get one off of a salvage yard Z-car; pretty easy if you are going to start spending money on an R200 swap, I'd just buy a mustache bar and avoid possible headaches. I know that there is some debate about the need for shortened CVs-plenty of guys did the swap over the years and I don't see lots of complaints on this forum. I played it safe and bought JMortensen's CV axle shafts and did the full conversion. I guess lots of guys are running the stock length CV axles, but I don't know how common it is to have breakages due to them being too long. It is common enough for JMortensen to go to the trouble of tooling up. From my limited experience, flipping the outer CV cages gets your axles only 1/8" shorter. Even after going to shortened shafts, it was still very tight clearances for me. If you go to CV axles and keep the stock length, you will still have to buy companion flanges which are $395 a pair. JMortensen's kit for these is beautiful and he supplies all the hardware in his kit too. You are starting to get into some money now. And for what? Unless you have a line on a LSD, your car won't PERFORM any better than it did before. I've seen 6 second cars run all season on stock, ancient u-joint axles and I know guys with slower cars who have broken every brand and style of axle available. There is a Q45 diff setup complete hub to hub on ebay right now too for $500 if you want to go that way. I just got an email from Modern Motorsports, so they are still open for business for their stuff. Lots of different ways to skin a cat. Edited May 28, 2012 by RebekahsZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CArFAn Posted May 28, 2012 Author Share Posted May 28, 2012 Only z car that i know of in the pick n pull is a 74 260z which i read may have the right mustache bar if its the later style. May go pull it tomorrow since its 50% day. Im new to this suspension tech stuff so im not in the "loop" on the setups available for the s30 chassis. My swap was my first major modification to my car besides my 5 lug swap and brake upgrade with rear disc. I appreciate all the info but i think i simple swap, direct bolt in will suffice so i can drive it more than 2 days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fuzzydicerule Posted May 29, 2012 Share Posted May 29, 2012 FWIW, im using the stock R180 Mustache with my R200. I just took a die grinder with a carbide bit to the holes, ovaled them a bit and it worked like a charm CArFAn, i was planning on keeping my R200 in there, but if youre in need, i would like to get my 230 swap done and having the 200 sold would be a good motivator, so if your other diff deal falls through, let me know Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CArFAn Posted May 30, 2012 Author Share Posted May 30, 2012 R200 deal went through seamlessly, met up with Battlesquaddatsun yesterday and picked up the r300, both axles. He also had a 280z mustache bar that was thrown into a good deal we worked out and the z is back on the road again. No turn signals or ebrake but im working on it. Thanks again to everyone here for the help and information. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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