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Battery option


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Have you weighed the car? I thought the general consensus floating around on the forums was the LS1 swap already makes the car rear biases weight wise. Thats the only thing keeping me from removing my battery tray to clean my engine bay up. Install looks nice though

 

-Will

No never been on a scale. I know this is a serious weight reduction over the stock battery. My swap has a/c so i have a little more weight out front with the compressor.

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That is my understanding from all my research.

 

Dont know where that came from. My 240 w/ LS1 & T56 is custom mounted but approx the same fore/aft placement as the the John's kit & ~3/4" offset to the passenger side. I wish it was MORE rear bias as it's 51%F/49%R and that's with a full size Optima battery placed behind the passenger seat. Lack of rear bias is actually holding be back from going to a smaller battery as it would not do favors to the weight balance. It's also 51% left side so anything you can move to the passenger side and rearward should improve weigh distribution

 

I'm on the pointy end of road racing set-up so your results may vary but I do run a 'street' class so have full street legal trim (lights, glass, dash, etc).

 

Cameron

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Hmm...makes me want to put my car on some corner scales even more. Here is one thread that talks about the Z being rear biased, also mentions that most of the drivers weight goes on the rear tires(Which makes since considering you practically sit on the rear axle in these cars). That's whats keeping me from moving my battery to the back and hacking out my battery box for a cleaner engine bay, don't want to make it even more rear biased than it might already be. Gonna have to call my dirt tracking buddy up next time I go home to get on some scales

 

 

-Will

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Dont know where that came from. My 240 w/ LS1 & T56 is custom mounted but approx the same fore/aft placement as the the John's kit & ~3/4" offset to the passenger side. I wish it was MORE rear bias as it's 51%F/49%R and that's with a full size Optima battery placed behind the passenger seat. Lack of rear bias is actually holding be back from going to a smaller battery as it would not do favors to the weight balance. It's also 51% left side so anything you can move to the passenger side and rearward should improve weigh distribution

 

I'm on the pointy end of road racing set-up so your results may vary but I do run a 'street' class so have full street legal trim (lights, glass, dash, etc).

 

Cameron

 

 

http://www.brokenkitty.com/zcar/zcar.htm

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That explains it. My 240 only weighs 2500 lb with 1/4ish tank, 2730 lb with me. I typically race between 1/4 and 1/2 tank. If the other cars were 500+ lbs heavier then all bets are off as that weight could be anywhere. The thing with driver weight is it's mostly on the drivers side and rearward. If it were me I would still want the battery on the right rear to balance the drivers left side bias otherwise the right rear is relatively light. Also depends on intended purpose. Rear weight is good for drag racing - more the better, doesn't really matter for the street, and some is good for road racing / autox. I've often actually run faster with a passenger despite the higher overall weight and I believe that's due to better weight balance. I recently bought scales and am playing with corner weights and am finding they are SIGNIFICANT to lap times.

 

Cameron

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The Odyssey PC680 weighs 15 pounds and pulses out 680 amps.

 

As a comparison, you can go with this one, which also weighs 15 lbs and pulses out 1067 amps and has 20% more capacity.

http://www.brailleba...batteries/b2015

 

My car is getting the lithium equivalent, same size, but only weighs 6 pounds, pulses 917 amps and has 3 times the capacity.

http://www.brailleba...batteries/ml20c

 

The downside to either smaller AGM battery is that if the car sits and is a "weekend warrior" vehicle, you will typically get 1-2 years out of them. In a daily driver, 2-3 years, if you are lucky. AGM batteries self-discharge 3-5% a month all by themselves, which is why they will go flat all by themselves in a matter of weeks if a charger isn't left on them. Lithium discharges at less than 1% a month and with 3 times the capacity, they can sit for months without a charge and still have high voltage and most of the capacity.

 

The lithium battery will also last 5 times longer, delivers higher/cleaner voltage, charges 5 times faster than AGM (so less HP draw from the alternator) and significant weight savings. It's the best of all world, other than the initial cost.

 

The ML20C is the race spec model, but Braille will be coming out with a G20 and U1R (Miata size) model for under $499 in a couple months that will weigh less than 5 lbs, which will be a cost effective upgrade over the long haul.

 

Here is a video of the ML14C (4.5 lbs) starting a Dodge Cummins turbo diesel truck, just as an example.

 

 

You will start seeing lithium as an optional battery in many cars in the very near future for several reasons.

Edited by Savage42
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Not quite. If you look at the pulse amps, they are significantly higher with the Braille, it have tested both. Just like Johnson Controls makes batteries for 20 different companies, an Optmia has a different construction than Die Hard, Deka may be the constructor, but they are made to a different spec. The 3121 you have is a rocking battery and have seen them in many a Corvette! The Corvette Factory team in the American Le Mans Series has run Braille batteries (the 3121 and now lithium) for many years. Performance is worth a paying little more, just like tires. With all the electronics on modern cars, the power supply is becoming more critical and now batteries are a viable performance upgrade.

Edited by Savage42
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