duragg Posted March 20, 2014 Author Share Posted March 20, 2014 I've only run 275/35 R6 HooHoos. Never the Slicks. But since I have to drop 70hp I can add more tire and stay in the class hunt. This past weekend we used a heat-gun and I made camber changes. Ya know I wasn't that scientific. I moved the camber till the temps were even... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted March 20, 2014 Share Posted March 20, 2014 I mean, your future experiences. Keep the info coming. Big fan! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clarkspeed Posted March 20, 2014 Share Posted March 20, 2014 Why do the LCA's have to be adjustable? More track? The TTT stuff is HD but that means more weight. That's a tough failure. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted March 21, 2014 Author Share Posted March 21, 2014 I doubt the TTT stuff is heavier than stock. And certainly by no meaningful amount. Spherical bearings instead of bushings and the ability to "square up" the front end which I was missing. I looked at all of them and was shy of aluminum, that is not an area I want to save weight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted April 17, 2014 Author Share Posted April 17, 2014 Ok where am I... A little followup, yes the TTT front arms and TC rods are about 4lbs heavier each side than stock. Nice adjustability. Indestructible? Rebello Race motor.. Threw a rod on Cylinder #5 and destroyed itself 10 hours after installation. Shipped back to Rebello. Waiting for them to figure out where we go from here. Hoping for a good outcome (within reason on both sides). It was a great motor... Pulled for days. Perfect for my 9:1 class. Backup motor is 80hp less and was leaking oil at the block breather fitting and caught fire in Qual when I got back to the pits. Thought we fixed it but 5 minutes into the Saturday race it caught fire again and I had to make a full lap of flaming Meatballs to get to the pit and extinguished again. No major damage. Melted some carb fittings and a some of the extinguisher agent from the first fire messed up a valve so I rebuilt the head. Should be ready for action by this time next week and we go to Spring Mountain for the next race. I have now been on fire four (4) times. I am installing 2 new fire systems. A 5lb AFFF system for the engine bay only , and a 5lb "FE36" system for me (also with one engine nozzle). Plus I will still have a small handheld Halotron. Overkill I suppose. Power. Whats next. I have acquired yet another L28 N42/N42 and an Eaton M90 Supercharger but I have no idea what to do with them... haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted April 17, 2014 Share Posted April 17, 2014 Do you have a good reference for me to see to learn about fire extinguisher systems? On the list for this year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted April 17, 2014 Author Share Posted April 17, 2014 A lot of options and check with your sanctioning body. For me (www.nasaaz.com) in "Race Group" I am legal with a handheld and so anything else I have is optional. I will keep a small 1.4lb Halotron in my door bar for compliance and tactical purposes. It's clean, portable and easy to use. The home style ABC is not appropriate anywhere on a race track, but in a pinch is slightly preferable to a car-b-que. It's a horrible mess to clean up. AFFF is soapy foam, effective and easy to refill on track with a spare kit. I think it is especially suited for engine compartment as it coats everything and won't blow away as easily at speed or if a fan is running. Hose it off, refill, fix problem and race again. I wouldn't really want it in the cockpit since it will make your driving suit a big wet nasty mess. 5lb systems are around $400 bucks. Clean Agent like "FE36" is nice for in-cockpit use since it won't make a mess to clean up. These systems are about $400 for a 5lb SFI label system complete with all hardware. I will have one nozzle in engine and one in cockpit mostly for compliance reasons. But I consider it primarily for cockpit usage. There are times and places for each of them, and potentially all of them. - A tire-booger smoldering on the header or a nearby car burning? Handheld. - A clear & serious engine fire? Let the AFFF flow and soak it all down. - Rolled over and tumbled 2 miles back on the track alone, upside down and on fire? AFFF first? Then deploy the FE36. Standby on the handheld and pray for help as you drop your nets, remove the steering wheel, identify the exit path, release harness and GTFO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted April 18, 2014 Share Posted April 18, 2014 Perfectly what I needed to understand. Willl refer to this in future. Thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted May 10, 2014 Author Share Posted May 10, 2014 Successful race weekend at Spring Mountain last week. Spare motor is off by 100hp but ran fine and we got 2 clean finishes and 150 points for the weekend keeping me well in 2nd place for NASA-AZ ST3. The new Wilwood 1" brake master restored the pedal feel I was missing and the booster with accumulator worked perfectly. Using DTC60 pads front and DTC70 rear on S12w and ZX brakes this was the first event that I had so much control over the hydraulics I could really upset the car braking too sharply. Even running 275 R6 on all four corners I had to relearn pedal modulation to set the weight transfer properly. My bias valve is right in the middle. Race motor is on the way back from Rebello after throwing a rod. Cause unknown. Dave took care of me. Next is relocating the oil cooler and more radiator ducting for better temps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted May 10, 2014 Author Share Posted May 10, 2014 It was hot and coolant was creeping past 220f so I just pedaled to hold temps. http://l.facebook.com/l.php?u=http%3A%2F%2Fyoutu.be%2FGKmnHn6s61o&h=dAQHZLDc0&s=1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nelsonian Posted May 10, 2014 Share Posted May 10, 2014 Having trouble viewing the provided link^^ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted May 10, 2014 Author Share Posted May 10, 2014 Better link? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Domzs Posted May 11, 2014 Share Posted May 11, 2014 Awesome ! I would love to try that sometimes , more of a straight line kinda guy . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted May 11, 2014 Share Posted May 11, 2014 With the convex rear view mirror, do you still use the mirrors on the doors? Thinking about what mirrors I will buy before September (my next track day). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted May 11, 2014 Author Share Posted May 11, 2014 The convex covers rear view and all right side view and then it's peripheral vision for real close wheel / wheel battles. I have a 3" Joes racing "fish eye" on the a-pillar of the cage for "close in combat" plus peripheral vision for the left side. Get the widest of the concave "Broadway" mirrors they offer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted May 11, 2014 Share Posted May 11, 2014 Thanks. Great video. What are the chances of adding two cylinders after this next Rebello blows up? I want you on our team. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted May 11, 2014 Author Share Posted May 11, 2014 (edited) haha. Well in my class ST3 i am limited to 9:1(weight/power) and currently I am right there. Several times at every race people come up and say how much they love the old Z. They love the sound of the motor. This is a great feeling. The fastest car in my class is a 1972 Porsche 911, air-cooled with Weber carbs. He is faster than nearly every car in every other class and within tenths of the Unlimited cars. It isn't power that wins races and points. My next motor is in process. An N42/N42 L28 with an Eaton M90 supercharger. Should be able to get a consistent 300whp with a killer sound. My "manopause" is coming along nicely... Edited May 11, 2014 by duragg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted May 11, 2014 Share Posted May 11, 2014 Classed by power to weight but they don't care how you get there? Max power or area under the curve? I just remembered that you were really wrapping up the rpms to get where you are. With more cubes you could limit your MAX power with an rpm limiter and have lots more torque for corner exit, or well, anything. I'm just bench racing you. I appreciate what you are doing and will get off your back. You are a real motivator. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted May 11, 2014 Author Share Posted May 11, 2014 SOO much goes into this formula. Dont forget about final drive ratios and RPMs needed to bridge turns. I have a 4.375 now and sure, you can change everything on the car to make and LS work and probably spend another big pile of money.. to have the same old Chevy motor that everyone has. Honestly the T56 is a deal breaker for me, 6 speeds is too many for my brain to keep track of. L motor is fine for now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted October 21, 2014 Author Share Posted October 21, 2014 Not bad for a little green POS that caught on fire 5 times, blew 2 engines and had me working on it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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