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Help with battery draw AFTER RB20 swap


ihiryu

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http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/109965-battery-drain-problem-after-swap/

 

This is my original thread I started up.

 

So I've got my draw coming from three places;

 

Alternator, CEL fuse, and ECU fuse.

 

The ECU fuse is the white/purple wire and white/black (these are ECU memory and require +12v). I wired them together, and put an inline fuse to them.

The CEL fuse is one I added. I cut the wires from the floor temp light, one side to battery, and the other to ECU (ECU grounds one side to turn on the light).

The Alternator wiring was done by cutting the plug from the original harness, and had the RB20 one added on. And I followed the Atlantic Z Car write up to convert from external to internal regulator. And I went ahead and did a maxi-fuse install.

 

If I reconnect ANY of the fuses separately I get a massive draw

ECU fuse adds 4.xx

CEL fuse adds 3.xx

Alt fuse adds 5.xx

 

Add all three of them together I only get a 5.xx draw (for some reason I figured it'd add up or compound, not stay the same).

 

Any help would be GREATLY appreciated.

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Stony,

 

I'm starting to believe it's a bad diode or rectifier inside the alternator that is causing my drain. I double checked the wiring again, I can isolate everything by removing it from the power side of everything (thus leaving the alternator the only one on the fuse) and I still have the drain.

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  • 3 weeks later...

So here's an update, I figured out what's wrong.  It took me a little bit of time of going over everything I did, and I feel a bit sheepish about it now.

I followed the Atlantic Z car's guide which states to hook up two and three together,

HOWEVER

On Z car creation's page, it shows to hook up THREE and SIX together. 

I hooked up three and six together, now my charge light is working, and it seems like my drain is gone (verified through a craftsman multimeter not my trusty fluke though).

Seems like this is specific to the 76 though.

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