ihiryu Posted November 12, 2012 Share Posted November 12, 2012 http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/109965-battery-drain-problem-after-swap/ This is my original thread I started up. So I've got my draw coming from three places; Alternator, CEL fuse, and ECU fuse. The ECU fuse is the white/purple wire and white/black (these are ECU memory and require +12v). I wired them together, and put an inline fuse to them. The CEL fuse is one I added. I cut the wires from the floor temp light, one side to battery, and the other to ECU (ECU grounds one side to turn on the light). The Alternator wiring was done by cutting the plug from the original harness, and had the RB20 one added on. And I followed the Atlantic Z Car write up to convert from external to internal regulator. And I went ahead and did a maxi-fuse install. If I reconnect ANY of the fuses separately I get a massive draw ECU fuse adds 4.xx CEL fuse adds 3.xx Alt fuse adds 5.xx Add all three of them together I only get a 5.xx draw (for some reason I figured it'd add up or compound, not stay the same). Any help would be GREATLY appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26powered74zcar Posted November 12, 2012 Share Posted November 12, 2012 Please do not cross post. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stony Posted November 12, 2012 Share Posted November 12, 2012 Interested in this as i have kind of the same problem. If i hook alternator up it kills the battery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihiryu Posted November 13, 2012 Author Share Posted November 13, 2012 Stony, I'm starting to believe it's a bad diode or rectifier inside the alternator that is causing my drain. I double checked the wiring again, I can isolate everything by removing it from the power side of everything (thus leaving the alternator the only one on the fuse) and I still have the drain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stony Posted November 14, 2012 Share Posted November 14, 2012 Yea that the only thing i disconnect to prevent my batt from going dead over a 3 day period. wonder if we are not hooking it up correctly? My alternator is bascially brand new Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted November 14, 2012 Share Posted November 14, 2012 Pretty sure that you could check for a short through the alternator's main charging terminal (B+) by checking resistance with a meter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihiryu Posted November 14, 2012 Author Share Posted November 14, 2012 How is yours hooked up Stony? I hooked mine up by cutting the plug on the stock alternator, then spliced the wires by the gauge sizes (one was thicker than the other) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stony Posted November 14, 2012 Share Posted November 14, 2012 I have it hooked up IAW one of teh threads here in the rb forum. let me see if i can find it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stony Posted November 14, 2012 Share Posted November 14, 2012 Its somewhere in the Chris Rummel's easy follow RB into Z wireing guide. i will look it up later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihiryu Posted December 5, 2012 Author Share Posted December 5, 2012 So here's an update, I figured out what's wrong. It took me a little bit of time of going over everything I did, and I feel a bit sheepish about it now. I followed the Atlantic Z car's guide which states to hook up two and three together, HOWEVER On Z car creation's page, it shows to hook up THREE and SIX together. I hooked up three and six together, now my charge light is working, and it seems like my drain is gone (verified through a craftsman multimeter not my trusty fluke though). Seems like this is specific to the 76 though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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