gt40rick Posted March 27, 2013 Author Share Posted March 27, 2013 LLave, I wanted the T56 Magnum since it is built for 700ft/lb torque. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gt40rick Posted March 28, 2013 Author Share Posted March 28, 2013 rags, the best I could do was 143.8 at the half mile since I am on the rev limiter in 4th... I could not shift into 5th (I tried 3 times before giving up). I could have gotten 150 in the half if I had 5th gear... and maybe 185 in the mile. I am already getting a new trans from Jegs (I called Jegs, Hurst Driveline Conversions and Tremec), pulling my trans this Friday. I had no clue this was going to happen... The car shifts great at normal speeds in all 6 gears (car has 1340 miles on it) only 5th gear gave me a problem at the Texas Mile... 6th went in fine. I will be back in October to get my 185 mph run. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gt40rick Posted March 28, 2013 Author Share Posted March 28, 2013 Zero, Nice find on youtube... Saved me the trouble... The guys that shot the video were great guys, They wanted to interview me at the staging grid but I declined because I really don't like to talk to a camera... little shy I guess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gt40rick Posted March 28, 2013 Author Share Posted March 28, 2013 harlest, I took a second 280Z crossmember and welded it to the back of the original one and to the frame (after cutting off the steering rack mounting bosses the engine mounts and cutting clearance holes for the lower control arm bolt). Then I sectioned the center to fit the width of the oil pan + an 1/2" clearance on both sides. I then put the engine in place and mocked up the engine mounts out of thin cardboard which I used as a pattern to fabricate motor mounts out of .125" steel sheet. Removed engine welded in new mounts. I will be taking out the T56 for replacement this Friday and I will get a couple of shots for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gt40rick Posted March 28, 2013 Author Share Posted March 28, 2013 Never made it into 5th gear... Trans has a bad syncro??? Getting a new one from Jegs... I was taking it easy and made 143.8 (on rev limiter in 4th) well before the 1/2 mile 150 is very possible at the half mile. It would have done 185 in the mile and I will do it this October. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dwigley Posted March 30, 2013 Share Posted March 30, 2013 Rick, Enjoyed the short visit in Beeville last weekend. Wow what a car! Nicest Z I've ever seen in person. Like the poster said earlier, you have to see this car in person to get the full impact. Photos just don't do it justice. Most Z's that i've seen, there is always something missing or left undone but not this car. You can look around it, over it, under it and every little detail has been attented to. Can't wait until October to see what it will do with six good gears! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gt40rick Posted April 2, 2013 Author Share Posted April 2, 2013 Dwigley, Thank you for your kind words. I am removing the transmission and Jeg's has agreed to send me a new one. In October I hope to go 185mph in the mile. If you go to the Mile stop by and chat for a while. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrayZ Posted May 3, 2013 Share Posted May 3, 2013 Hey Rick I noticed you where running TTT rear LCA's on your Z. I have a set that i am going to install on my 280 this weekend. Did you use any of the "shims" TTT provided? im not quite sure how they are to be installed. From the other pictures ive seen I cant tell how many or where they are being used. Do you mind shooting a couple photos to better explain how you used them for your application? Thanks in advance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted May 3, 2013 Share Posted May 3, 2013 Hey Rick I noticed you where running TTT rear LCA's on your Z. I have a set that i am going to install on my 280 this weekend. Did you use any of the "shims" TTT provided? im not quite sure how they are to be installed. From the other pictures ive seen I cant tell how many or where they are being used. Do you mind shooting a couple photos to better explain how you used them for your application? Thanks in advance 90% sure they go on either side of the strut tube housing, around the "spindle pin" or bolt that you used to replace it. They're so you can space the wheel back if you want. Be careful how far you go though, because I'm running into issues with the tires kissing the flares. I moved mine back about an inch though....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gt40rick Posted May 8, 2013 Author Share Posted May 8, 2013 CrayZ, on 03 May 2013 - 06:38 AM, said: Hey Rick I noticed you where running TTT rear LCA's on your Z. I have a set that i am going to install on my 280 this weekend. Did you use any of the "shims" TTT provided? im not quite sure how they are to be installed. From the other pictures ive seen I cant tell how many or where they are being used. Do you mind shooting a couple photos to better explain how you used them for your application? Thanks in advance I will take some pictures this weekend for you... You need to put half of the spacers in front of the hub carrier and the outer half behind the hub carrier (if you want it in the stock location). if you want to shift the wheel forward or to the rear then put more shims on the opposite side of the hub, like 2 in the front and 6 in the rear and the wheel will move to the front of the car. In any case use all of the washer shims (think there are 8 per wheel, I will count them when I take the pictures) must be used. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrayZ Posted May 8, 2013 Share Posted May 8, 2013 Thanks Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gt40rick Posted May 20, 2013 Author Share Posted May 20, 2013 CrayZ, I finally got under the car... Like I said previously to center the wheel just put an equal number of washers on each side. I want to add that I put a thin washer on the front side of the wheel carrier to take up all of the space between the heim joints since I did not want to stress them by bending them in slightly when the nuts on the shaft are tightened up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrayZ Posted May 21, 2013 Share Posted May 21, 2013 (edited) I appreciate the photo, That clears it up for me. Edited May 21, 2013 by CrayZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted May 29, 2013 Share Posted May 29, 2013 FYI, if you compress the suspension with no spring in it, you can see where the shim really needs to be. It's not going to be as misaligned at full droop, but it gets worse as the suspension compresses, so checking it on the bumpstop is probably the way to go. I used bumpsteer spacers from a circle track kit to figure it out on my first attempt at adjustable control arms. I'm guessing TTT is sending out something similar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrayZ Posted May 30, 2013 Share Posted May 30, 2013 FYI, if you compress the suspension with no spring in it, you can see where the shim really needs to be. It's not going to be as misaligned at full droop, but it gets worse as the suspension compresses, so checking it on the bumpstop is probably the way to go. I used bumpsteer spacers from a circle track kit to figure it out on my first attempt at adjustable control arms. I'm guessing TTT is sending out something similar. So what your saying is that when the suspension is compressed without the spring on it, it will force the spindle to move to its "proper" location and I should "shim" to keep it in that spot? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted May 30, 2013 Share Posted May 30, 2013 (edited) On my arms I recall that what I did was to compress the suspension and check the position of the strut shaft in the camber plate hole. If it was forward, then I shimmed it back, etc. I was using 12mm strut shafts and 5/8" monoballs, so you could see if it was shifted forward or back. Edited May 30, 2013 by JMortensen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrayZ Posted May 30, 2013 Share Posted May 30, 2013 On my arms I recall that what I did was to compress the suspension and check the position of the strut shaft in the camber plate hole. If it was forward, then I shimmed it back, etc. I was using 12mm strut shafts and 5/8" monoballs, so you could see if it was shifted forward or back. Ok I get it. I will not have access to the strut alignment tools you used. When going back over it this weekend I will do my best to make sure it is aligned properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheechq Posted June 24, 2013 Share Posted June 24, 2013 Rick, You mentioned custom shroud work for your Arizona Z radiator. Can you share the specs and diagrams? Can you also provide the fan model and part number? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
231Z Posted August 31, 2013 Share Posted August 31, 2013 Rick, Beautiful build. I hope to do something similar. Not busting balls, just curious that you bought the BullDawg LSX swap kit, but then fabricated your own mounts. Can you give us any insight to this? I've heard their mounts, John's cars and JTR's are good for the LSX swap. I have heard that with these kits you may have to buy the 58m offset for the T56 trans to set it back close to the stock location of the original shifter. Thanks for any insight. Tyson Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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