Datz350 Posted November 20, 2012 Share Posted November 20, 2012 I took out one of the rear struts and put in the new tokico. I noticed that the tokico shock is a lot shorter than the one that was in there. The kit came with some metal tube spacers but they make the strut poke up more. Am I supposed to cut these spacers? Why are the tokico struts shorter? Anyone deal with this before? Car is a 71 240z. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cockerstar Posted November 20, 2012 Share Posted November 20, 2012 What part number struts do you have The front and rear struts by tokico are the same strut with a metal spacer welded under the rear one to make it the appropriate height. Is this spacer not attached? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Datz350 Posted November 20, 2012 Author Share Posted November 20, 2012 #tohz3016 It has the metal spacers, but are not welded. With the spacers the strut sticks out too much. Am I going to have to cut these spacers? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cockerstar Posted November 20, 2012 Share Posted November 20, 2012 How much too long are the spacers? Be sure to look inside your strut tube and verify that it is clean and there is nothing in the bottom. I've dealt with many strut installs on Z cars, and I am amazed at the amount of grease/dirt/rust/general crud that can collect in the bottom of these tubes over a 40+ year period. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leon Posted November 20, 2012 Share Posted November 20, 2012 Do you have coilovers/sectioned struts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Datz350 Posted November 20, 2012 Author Share Posted November 20, 2012 There is nothing in the tube. The strut that was in there fits flush with the tube. The tokico strut is physically shorter than the strut I pulled out. Why would tokico make the strut shorter? I don't get it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leon Posted November 20, 2012 Share Posted November 20, 2012 They didn't make it shorter, unless you got the wrong insert. An answer to my initial question might give us a clue. The part number from the inserts you pulled could help as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Datz350 Posted November 20, 2012 Author Share Posted November 20, 2012 Just a thought; Would it matter if the strut is sticking out of the tube? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miles Posted November 20, 2012 Share Posted November 20, 2012 (edited) I have had three problems with Tokico shocks: twice received the wrong gland nuts and another time they packed the wrong shock in the box. When I called them they were always willing to correct the problem. Call Tokico or the dealer you bought the strut from. Edited November 21, 2012 by Miles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted November 21, 2012 Share Posted November 21, 2012 Ok... lots of confusion here. The "strut" is the physical tub and casting that's part of the suspensiuon. The "shock" is what goes insdei the strut tube. The shock has to be the same length or shorter then the inside length strut tube. If its shorter, you just make and install a spacer that goes in the bottom of the strut tube to position the shock at the top of the strut tube. 1.5" OD tubing is what you use to make the spacer. And, as Leon mentioned, with knowing the Tokico parts number, you're not going to get much more help frmo us. Look on the side of the shock for the part number. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted November 21, 2012 Share Posted November 21, 2012 And as of the end of 2011 you're not buying Tokico products from Tokico anymore. In the USA they are being sold by a fullfillment house called Belshore, Inc. They dont' know dick about cars and just put stuff in boxes. That stuff can be Tokico shocks, Salad Spinners, Snuggies, or buckets of Oxyclean. It doesn't matter to them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Datz350 Posted November 21, 2012 Author Share Posted November 21, 2012 Ok, shock is sticking out of the strut tube. Thats what I mean. But, only with the spacers they sent me. The shock falls into the strut tube without the spacer. These spacers they sent me, (2) for the rear I suppose, are metal. Lol, I don't have anything that would cut that material. This is my first time changing out this kind of suspension. I'm used to hondas, so I apologize for my "newb-ness". The part number I see on the shock is TOHZ3016 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Datz350 Posted November 21, 2012 Author Share Posted November 21, 2012 Lololol!!! Snuggies... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted November 21, 2012 Share Posted November 21, 2012 (edited) shock is sticking out of the strut tube. How far? And when you say they stick out, do you mean that the gland nut won't screw down all the way? Or have you even tried putting the gland nut on? Please don't ask what a gland nut is. Edited November 21, 2012 by NewZed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted November 21, 2012 Share Posted November 21, 2012 Time to buy a miter saw and put a metal cutting cutoff saw blade in it. Most valuable tool in my shop. Just cut down the spacers they sent you and move to the next part of your build. We should publish a list of tools every hybridz owner should have. This is about number three on my list. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted November 21, 2012 Share Posted November 21, 2012 (edited) I get the feeling that he's going to trim the spacer down until the gland nut tightens on the strut tube. So it looks right. I hope I'm wrong, and end up looking like an ass. Edited November 21, 2012 by NewZed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Datz350 Posted November 21, 2012 Author Share Posted November 21, 2012 I'm going to say the gland nut is the one that seals the shock to the tube, right. I had to hit it with a flat head screwdriver to screw it off. Yeah, the shock sticks out too much to put that nut back on. I guess I'll be measuring the spacers to get them cut. I'm just bummed the shock couldn't be exact size to fill in the tube. Hopefully these shocks are worth the hassle.. Thanks for the input friends. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted November 21, 2012 Share Posted November 21, 2012 One last thing. Since your thread is void of any specific measurements or pictures, and vague in general, it's reasonable to guess that you might not be aware that the spacer that comes with the shock is a press fit on the bottom of the shock. About two millimeters of engagement. If you're just dropping the spacer in the hole then dropping the shock on top of it, the spacer won't be centered and it won't be properly pressed on to the shock. This would explain why the right parts aren't working for you. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Datz350 Posted November 21, 2012 Author Share Posted November 21, 2012 Yes, actually. I pressed the spacer into the 2mm groove you are speaking of. The shock sticks out of the tube with the spacer pressed in firmly. I don't understand how the description of my problem is vague. Shouldn't all 240z's have the same suspension set-up? The shock slides into the strut tube. Then you close it off with the gland nut. Compress the spring and secure the top hat with the provided bolt on top. Now my problem; The gland nut will not close if I slide the shock in WITH the spacer. Without the spacer the shock slides in all the way, and although the gland nut now closes, I have too much play on the shock. From my understanding, the top of the shock should be almost flush to the tube so the gland nut would screw in and hold the shock in place.... Phew, am I missing something? I know I'm ignorant, but I know I'm not stupid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted November 21, 2012 Share Posted November 21, 2012 Try to fabricate a tool that will fit your gland nut like a wrench. You can get some steel plate stock from the hardware store and cut it into a wrench with a cutoff saw or angle grinder (Harbor Freight $49-gotta have one). Channel locks or a big pipe wrench work, but you will slip off a lot and may not get the gland nut very tight. I don't know the torque setting, as if you could ever get a torque wrench on it! Lubricate the gland nut with some anti-seize first and put a little (a few table spoons) of motor oil into the strut tube so your shock doesn't rust into it. Then, put some paint or torque seal between the gland nut and the strut tube so that you can visually inspect for loosening in the future. I've had the same trouble that you have with shock length. The bottom line is that the shock manufacturer can't make an infinite number of shock lengths, so they make a few that are too short for the intended purpose and let you use spacers as needed. If your shock is too long, you are screwed, but if your shock is a little short - just use a custom spacer (that you make yourself). I've used some shocks that come with a little cup welded to the bottom (KYB) and I've had to grind a quarter inch or more off that little cup to make the shock fit. Just do whatever is needed. It is kind of the hybridz philosophy. You need to use the gland nut that came with the new shocks - it should be made specially for the top profile of that shock. Unfortunately, unless you race your car and are a super good driver, you probably won't be able to notice a big difference in your new shocks over old ones (unless the old ones were totally worn out). For street cars, the high-dollar shocks are a little overrated, IMHO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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