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Ok as the wheel turns. I pulled the motor down to do the turbo install and decided to tackle the Brake Master Cylinder install (BMC). 

 

At my first look I thought that I would be able to bolt directly to the S30 brake booster. The adapter does not bolt to the Z32 BMC , for one thing the stud mounts would make the Z32 BMC rotated 90 degrees or sideways. Plus on top of that they do not line up. Next if you try to bolt the z32 BMC directly to the S30 booster the other studs are in the way.

 

Here are some pics.

 

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As you can see the pics. So...........................

 

Option 1 is remove the 2 S30 studs , top and bottom ones. Then bolt the z32 BMC to the other outer studs.

 

Option 2 is remove the booster and put the Z32 booster in the car. I think with the additional volume of the Z32 and if it will fit between the clutch master cylinder and the accelerator bracket would be the best bet.

 

This week I will get the booster out of the Z32 and see how it will fit, or at least measure for fitment. I watched my dad go through this with his Tahoe. BMC did not have enough pressure so he got one from the next model design that fixed the spongy break feel. He had to drill new holes in the fire wall to mount but it worked out. 

 

So stay tuned.............................................

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My Z31 BMC install was similar. I just cut down the top stud and slotted the two mounting holes in the BMC to get it to bolt to the booster. Unfortunatly, I'm missing something to make it work, because the braking did not work well. Similar symptoms to missing the reaction disc, but it was there, well the thinner reaction disc that I made. So I need to look into it a bit more. I'm using Z31 front and rear calipers, along with rotors.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

So final update...

 

To get this to work I used the Z32 booster as well. Had to redrill the firewall to make the mounting studs fit. When you do this the re-inforcement of the dash to the firewall will get  in the way. Unless you are exaxtly perfect in drilling the new holes, evenly spacing the them around this inner stiffening bracket. I had one mounting stud that the nut interfered with this re-informenct piece. I had to do some cutting on that one side. I drilled a hole in the bracket then took an air saw and cut to the firewall, then had to bend the metal with pliers to allow the nut to screw onto the stud and snug up to the inner fire wall.

 

This was not very difficult and took about 45 minutes of drilling, cutting and bolting this in. I think this is not a very difficult upgrade for our cars. You can find these parts at the junk yard, unbolt the four nuts from inside, take the holding pin to the pedal and remove the 2 brake lines off the BMC. You should be able to get these for less than $150. 

 

 

20130401_172507_zps9ef64a91.jpg

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