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Anyone drop a 351W in their Z?


Freelancelance

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Hey,

I have seen talk,of dropping a 351W in, but was wondering who's done it and where are the links? Thanks, I looked and Googled... 

I am still in the tearing down side of the build, and was thinking going LS, as I can pick them up for relatively cheap, and it makes good power with a few mods.. then I started adding everything up to get it the way I wanted it, and realized, I can go "old school" and get all that and more for the same money...and not have the "electronics' part of the equation to deal with.. I had a Stroked 351W (408)  in a 70 Mustang.. and it was a beast, perfect street/strip motor...Im sure it has been done, just would like to know what to look out for, just like any other build on here....Thanks,

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Well I'm going to running a 387 Clevor in mine with long tube headers. My frame rails were shot, so I cut them out and welded in some 1 1/2 x 3 in rectangular tubing. I also turned it flat and ran to the back of the car, to act as sub frame connectors. I have not posted any thing on it yet. I used some cheap Fox body headers and changed the flanges.

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Thanks for responding, I plan on doing a "full frame: as well, as I am going  with a shortened 9" and a 4 link in the rear.. I have a rust free Z thankfully, I am working from rear to front on this build.. and was just going to connect to the "front sub frame" as it is solid... I haven't done the measuring it is going to take to see what I am facing up there... + I am leaning to go with a double a-arm suspension up front. which gives me some options, as well as challenges.... 

 

Would like to know more about changing out the flanges, and I might have to fab all the way to the radiator to get some long tubes..... Wondering if it would be possibly worth it...

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I'm leaving shortly, but I gained almost 3 inches, by cutting out my rotton frame rails, and replacing it with the 1 1/2 x 3 tubing. I like long tube headers more than shorty's. I'm going with a stock bore, 3.85 stroke 351W, with 2V Cleveland heads, and an Edelbrock Eboss 351 intake.

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Interesting way to make some power, I just finished reading up on how to go about it, I had heard about it for years, but always thought it was too "exotic" although I used to think that about strokers, and been  having good luck with them for quite a while now, from putting a stroked 4.0 to make it a 4.3 in my jeep... to a few Chevy and Ford motors of cars I have built...

 

I will have to see some flow numbers as aluminum heads are pretty reasonable for what they give you + not stuck to one manifold.. If anyone is interested,, this is one of the pages I did my research on... http://www.themustangshop.com/clevor.cfm

 

If you already have all the parts, and just have to pick up a manifold it makes a lot of sense... good luck on your build... looking forward to seeing your Clevor..build!

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Well I'm back for a couple of weeks. For me, I like having  the extra torque that these engines put out. This will be the first that I have ran in a car. I have two dirfferent ones in 94 F150 extended cab. There is nothing like an engine with the torque to push you into the seat to where you have trouble reaching forward. They did not rev much over 4500 rpm in my truck, and my truck had a high top camper. Along with around 600 lbs of tools in the back, at all times when driven. Those engines had the stock 5.956 rods and 5.0 pistons. The Clevor engine is going to have the (6.03 long) 302 Cleveland rod and the Boss 302 piston. I'm going with the 2bbl heads, for large open chamber to lower compression. I still may have to have the domed pistons milled some to do it. With using those heads I know that I'm adding extra weight to the front end, but I am going with my old rebuilt 4 speed Top Loader (wide ratio)  tranny, along with a 97 Explorer rear end, with 3.08 gears and posi diff. Since I don't have an overdrive. I put a 89 Bronco ii (23 gal) gas tank in back in the center, with my mufflers on each side.

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I forgot. the intake I have have had it for some time now. I sold my Boss 302 intake on ebay and bought the other when they first came out. I paid $50 more than what you can get one for now.

 

http://pricemotorsport.com

 

This place here has all sorts of intake adapters for putting Cleveland heads on your engine. Also Trick Flow now make a Fuel injection intake for the Clevor.

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Sweet, I am still in the tear down phase, and selling everything I do not need, have a busy few months ahead for work, so I don't expect to pull out the plasma cutter or welder to summer... but I will do what I can while I have time...no rush... but can only imagine the fun this will be to drive.... 

 

I love the direction you're going with your motor.. I am going AFR's on a forged stroked crank and rods... perfect is really 408, but might make it a 427 just to say it has a 427 lol

Looking forward to seeing your build..... can't wait till I can do some measuring...

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Freelancelance,

 

I noticed that you are in Tampa.  It just so happens that one of the true Cleveland engine gurus lives in the area and is partners a machine shop in Riverview.  His name is John Douglass and his partner is Gil Alfaro.  John campaigned a Cleveland powered NHRA Superstock thunderbird for more than 20 years.

 

If you need a good machine shop run by someone who really knows the Cleveland engine, then give these guys a call:

http://asmotorsport.homestead.com/

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  • 6 months later...
  • 4 months later...

There is plenty room for the 351W in the engine bay. You have to get yourself a pair of block hugger shorty headers, unless you do like had to do. My frame rails had rotted out on me, so I cut them out, and replaced them with 1 1/2 x 3 rectangle tubing. I have enough room for long tube headers now with Boss 302 heads on my 351W.I used a pair of Fox body Mustang headers and welded Cleveland flanges on them. 

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