NewZed Posted January 18, 2013 Share Posted January 18, 2013 Page 10 here looks interesting, although the whole catalog is worth browsing - http://www.ntn.ca/Catalogues/NTN/CVJ-ForIndusrial_en.pdf Here's one of the Pathfinder axle threads, only because it was mentioned, sounds like you're going a different way - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/72805-using-pathfinder-and-zxt-axles-to-install-30-spline-nismo-lsd-kit-56k/page-3?do=findComment&comment=942447 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrayZ Posted January 18, 2013 Author Share Posted January 18, 2013 Page 10 here looks interesting, although the whole catalog is worth browsing - http://www.ntn.ca/Catalogues/NTN/CVJ-ForIndusrial_en.pdf Here's one of the Pathfinder axle threads, only because it was mentioned, sounds like you're going a different way - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/72805-using-pathfinder-and-zxt-axles-to-install-30-spline-nismo-lsd-kit-56k/page-3#entry942447 Hmmm it sure is.. Looks like the are going with a double clip setup as well.. I'm pretty confident that stoping the star from walking on the axle and my beafed up cir clips will do the job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrayZ Posted January 18, 2013 Author Share Posted January 18, 2013 Regarding the star "walking" on the shaft - it's either supposed to be free to move around, or it's supposed to stay in one place. But walking to a new spot and getting stuck so tight that you have to bang it off with a hammer can't be right. It's either a cause of the problem, or a result of the problem. Might be worth focusing on how and why that happens. If the balls were pressing on the circlip, that force would be pushing against the star and cage, preventing it from getting stuck on the inner spline portion. Since the star is stuck, that suggests that the star walked doen the shaft first, got stuck, then held the balls against the clip until it popped out. I've found that the weird small stuff is sometimes the clue to solving the big problem. Good luck. I e been thinking really hard about this and I'm almost positive this is what happened. Thanks for the observation Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrayZ Posted January 18, 2013 Author Share Posted January 18, 2013 Regarding the star "walking" on the shaft - it's either supposed to be free to move around, or it's supposed to stay in one place. But walking to a new spot and getting stuck so tight that you have to bang it off with a hammer can't be right. It's either a cause of the problem, or a result of the problem. Might be worth focusing on how and why that happens. If the balls were pressing on the circlip, that force would be pushing against the star and cage, preventing it from getting stuck on the inner spline portion. Since the star is stuck, that suggests that the star walked doen the shaft first, got stuck, then held the balls against the clip until it popped out. I've found that the weird small stuff is sometimes the clue to solving the big problem. Good luck. Ive been thinking really hard about this and I'm almost positive this is what happened. Thanks for the observation Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted January 18, 2013 Share Posted January 18, 2013 I have a different theory. Since I've been through all this, I can almost positively say that the axle was too short, pulled out of the cv cup, destroying said cup, and then trying to compress again, forcing the star further onto the shaft. Maybe not though, i've been wrong before. Basically your axle is to short, so fix it lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rags Posted January 18, 2013 Share Posted January 18, 2013 Sorry for not posting this sooner but IMO the problem is being caused by having 2 sliding CV joints. You need to have one fixed and one slider to have the axle work correctly. With the full floating axle that is caused by having 2 sliding joints, the axle will try to walk in the direction caused by harmonics created by the twisting motion of the diff. Joe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrayZ Posted January 18, 2013 Author Share Posted January 18, 2013 (edited) I have a different theory. Since I've been through all this, I can almost positively say that the axle was too short, pulled out of the cv cup, destroying said cup, and then trying to compress again, forcing the star further onto the shaft. Maybe not though, i've been wrong before. Basically your axle is to short, so fix it lol. What about the spacers I put in? Check this video out. This is with the spacers in. http://i484.photobucket.com/albums/rr206/texastrini1986/AEA18D87-B935-46D1-B249-1B35A3B21C8A-8645-00000A6E77836F56.mp4 I think newzed is right. I think when the star moves towards the center of the axle it is "shortening" the axle Edited January 18, 2013 by CrayZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrayZ Posted January 18, 2013 Author Share Posted January 18, 2013 Sorry for not posting this sooner but IMO the problem is being caused by having 2 sliding CV joints. You need to have one fixed and one slider to have the axle work correctly. With the full floating axle that is caused by having 2 sliding joints, the axle will try to walk in the direction caused by harmonics created by the twisting motion of the diff. Joe I agree, I'm not a fan of the floating axle design. I think the combination of spacers and pinning the star as far away from the center of the axle will fix the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted January 18, 2013 Share Posted January 18, 2013 I need to know the following to help out: 1. What shocks are in the car? 2. What is the rear spring rate? 3. How tall are the springs (free height)?4. How tall is the threaded collar? My initial impresison is the your strut tubes are too long for some strange reason or the spring rate is very high not allowing much compression at static ride height. The shocks also might not be postioned at the top of the strut tube (with spacers at the bottom) causing the odd droop asymetry. The stock inside length of a 240Z rear strut tube is 16.75". You've got about 10.5" from the welded collar to the casting so you should see about 5" above the welded collar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrayZ Posted January 18, 2013 Author Share Posted January 18, 2013 (edited) John I really appreciate your help. This Z community is great! You all have been a big help so far. I will do my best to get all of the required info tonight after work. For now I can give you what he told me. He did the sectioning himself. The shocks are tokico 5 ways and the spring rate is "whatever ground control re commented" appearently it is a popular rate found on hybridZ forums? Is there a way I can find out otherwise? John I really appreciate your help. This Z community is great! You all have been a big help so far. I will do my best to get all of the required info tonight after work. For now I can give you what he told me. He did the sectioning himself. The shocks are tokico 5 ways and the spring rate is "whatever ground control recommended" appearently it is a popular rate found on hybridZ forums? Is there a way I can find out otherwise? Edited January 18, 2013 by CrayZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rags Posted January 18, 2013 Share Posted January 18, 2013 What difference does it make how long the strut tube is if the ride hight is correct? Reading back through this thread it looks like the angle of deflection on the axle is too great with the diff side being way to low at ride height. The only way this can occur is if the ride height in the back of the car is incorrect and the ass of the car is dragging on the ground or the diff is mounted incorrectly and is way to low. Joe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrayZ Posted January 18, 2013 Author Share Posted January 18, 2013 (edited) What difference does it make how long the strut tube is if the ride hight is correct? Reading back through this thread it looks like the angle of deflection on the axle is too great with the diff side being way to low at ride height. The only way this can occur is if the ride height in the back of the car is incorrect and the ass of the car is dragging on the ground or the diff is mounted incorrectly and is way to low. Joe Another question I've been trying to get an awnser to is if the diff is suppose to be mounted slightly further back. Not only are the angles on the axles sharply pointing down wards but they are pointed back as well. The flange that comes off of the dif is not perfectly in line with the hub flange. With the driver wheels off (looking at the dif from inside the wheel well) you can clearly see that the dif sits further back taking the two flanges out of line. Thisight be normal, I don't know. Also if this diff is incorrectly mounted I would be amazed as the bracket that holds the rear of the diff to the frame is TTT I believe there is only one way to be mounted. Is there any other way the diff could be mounted wrong? Adjustment? Different mounting places? Edited January 18, 2013 by CrayZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rags Posted January 18, 2013 Share Posted January 18, 2013 The diff should be positioned slightly back from the wheel hub. This was moved slightly back by Datsun in 72. I just some measurements on my car. My ride height at the back of the rocker in front of the rear wheels is 7 inches from the bottom of the pinch weld to the ground. I run 18"350Z wheels which also plays a part in where the hub sits in realtion to the ground. I also took a measurement from the ground to the diff mounting bolts. There I have 12 5/8" between the ground and the bottom of the bolt that comes through the mustache bar. I'd take measurements on your car and compare them to mine. I'm sure you are going to find that your diff is much closer to the ground than mine. Joe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrayZ Posted January 18, 2013 Author Share Posted January 18, 2013 The diff should be positioned slightly back from the wheel hub. This was moved slightly back by Datsun in 72. I just some measurements on my car. My ride height at the back of the rocker in front of the rear wheels is 7 inches from the bottom of the pinch weld to the ground. I run 18"350Z wheels which also plays a part in where the hub sits in realtion to the ground. I also took a measurement from the ground to the diff mounting bolts. There I have 12 5/8" between the ground and the bottom of the bolt that comes through the mustache bar. I'd take measurements on your car and compare them to mine. I'm sure you are going to find that your diff is much closer to the ground than mine. Joe Thanks joe, ill check when I get home. For te time being here is a video overview of my rear end.. No pun intended lol http://i484.photobucket.com/albums/rr206/texastrini1986/E6FAC4DC-E743-46D4-9517-87E1379FEBD2-11017-00000E1E6A4247DC.mp4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimZ Posted January 18, 2013 Share Posted January 18, 2013 You might find these helpful... http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/51138-has-anyone-installed-the-modern-motorsports-6-bolt-axle-end-stops-on-the-outboard/?hl=end+stops http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/25809-r230-conversion-shafts/?hl=end+stops&do=findComment&comment=199781 http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/20323-r230-q45-cv-axles-where-did-you-get-them-shortened/?hl=end+stops&do=findComment&comment=204853 http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/56198-q45-diff-swap-axle-problem/?hl=end+stops&do=findComment&comment=511199 http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/75896-axle-stop-mm-q45-diff-problem/?hl=end+stops&do=findComment&comment=722446 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrayZ Posted January 18, 2013 Author Share Posted January 18, 2013 (edited) Side note: modifications I made to the axles I originally tried to cut it for one snap ring but these axles are made out of some SERIOUSLY strong stuff so I had to switch up the cutting tip. Double snap rings should work fine though. Edited January 18, 2013 by CrayZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrayZ Posted January 18, 2013 Author Share Posted January 18, 2013 You might find these helpful... http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/51138-has-anyone-installed-the-modern-motorsports-6-bolt-axle-end-stops-on-the-outboard/?hl=end+stops http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/25809-r230-conversion-shafts/?hl=end+stops#entry199781 http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/20323-r230-q45-cv-axles-where-did-you-get-them-shortened/?hl=end+stops#entry204853 http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/56198-q45-diff-swap-axle-problem/?hl=end+stops#entry511199 http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/75896-axle-stop-mm-q45-diff-problem/?hl=end+stops#entry722446 Thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvilC Posted January 18, 2013 Share Posted January 18, 2013 Just took a look at your newest vid - your diff is mounted too low! You can see right over the top of it in the vids. I will be able to go into details later with pics but for sure the diff is too low. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrayZ Posted January 18, 2013 Author Share Posted January 18, 2013 (edited) Just took a look at your newest vid - your diff is mounted too low! You can see right over the top of it in the vids. I will be able to go into details later with pics but for sure the diff is too low. But how??? The TTT mount is where it is designed to be. Not to mention there is only 1" of clearance between the top of the diff and the body.. The only way it could go higher is if the diff was mounted forward, which goes against factory design Edited January 18, 2013 by CrayZ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrayZ Posted January 18, 2013 Author Share Posted January 18, 2013 I'm going to take a bunch of measurements here shortly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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