docaam Posted March 20, 2013 Share Posted March 20, 2013 Nice built, subscribing. Just want to know to the guys who did VQ swap, is it necessary to remove the AC compressor for S30 chassis or there is a way you can leave it there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted March 20, 2013 Author Share Posted March 20, 2013 Looking at it, I 'd think the compressor would be in the way of the steering shaft, at least in the stock location. It might fit if you put another knuckle in the steering though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvilC Posted March 20, 2013 Share Posted March 20, 2013 Is it running yet?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chicago240z Posted March 20, 2013 Share Posted March 20, 2013 The a/c cant be used in current position due to steering,I was thinking of having a mount made like for a super charger which goes above where the a/c originally was. How did you go about figuring how much you needed to cut out of crossmember you seem to be the only person ive come across using the mckinney kit, would you have any measurements to help out pre install of mckinney cross member? and how much to cut out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted March 20, 2013 Author Share Posted March 20, 2013 Honestly I just looked at what others had done, the pic on the McKinney site and measured my engine and eyeballed it. If there needs to be a little last minute grinding, so be it. I could measure mine and let you know if I have any clearance issues once I get my engine in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
astroboy Posted March 20, 2013 Share Posted March 20, 2013 If the car was a RHD (the correct side for a driver to be, of course lol) I believe that the AC unit could be kept in there but It might be the case that the alternator would have to be sacrificed. Obviously, the alternator is the more important component to keep. It would be good to see if there was another way to keep the AC as I'll be doing long drives (not long compared to you lot over stateside) and like to have the option when it does get hot in the UK. I haven't spent too much time working out how things can fit yet. I've only had the engine delivered/tranny delivered so far. If you need to find out how much to cut out on the OEM crossmember, would Hoke's site not help? There's a section and photograph showing how he worked it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted March 22, 2013 Author Share Posted March 22, 2013 Out with the old. Buyer is coming for my old engine and trans Saturday, no turning back now! I didn't take any pics but we also used some aircraft stripper to remove the paint and undercoating from the engine bay. This weekend I plan to shorten the shifter and coat the inside of my tank. Hopefully I'll be mounting the engine one night next week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted March 26, 2013 Author Share Posted March 26, 2013 Shortened the shifter and coated the tank. May have clogged my pickup tube in the process so I will likely have to run another, but no big deal. This coating is pretty tough. My wiring harness should be coming shortly and my plenum spacer arrived. Hopefully I'll get the engine mounted this week. I think there is a chance that I'll be able to fit the stock 350z radiator and fans in the car. It'll be close as its wider than the stocker, but it's also shorter so it might be able to sit on top rather than between the frame rails. I'll test fit it this week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pharaohabq Posted March 27, 2013 Share Posted March 27, 2013 Hey Zero, Your Gas tank looks like it turned out really good. I don't think you lost that much volume over stock either. I might have to weld in a flange for mine. I'm really liking it. All it needs now is paint Yeah I've heard the 350z Radiator won't fit. but I've never seen anyone try it, so I'm looking forward to your experience with it. It'll be nice to have the stock fans. As for the crossmember you shouldn't have much trouble. the harder part is figuring how you're going to handle locking your hood without the latch. Austin used those pin clamps. As for the AC. I was planning on building a bracket that would mount where the PS pump was and trying to fit the AC pump there, but I'm not sure now much room there will be, or if it'll need much support on the back end of the pump. it's just ideas. I want AC tho, it's hot in NM. the other idea is to leave the pump in it's stock location and extend the steering linkage with extra U joint. I'm using the ones off a 350z steering column. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docaam Posted March 28, 2013 Share Posted March 28, 2013 As for the AC. I was planning on building a bracket that would mount where the PS pump was and trying to fit the AC pump there, but I'm not sure now much room there will be, or if it'll need much support on the back end of the pump. it's just ideas. I want AC tho, it's hot in NM. the other idea is to leave the pump in it's stock location and extend the steering linkage with extra U joint. I'm using the ones off a 350z steering column. I am really looking forward to this info, as really in between VQ or RB(NA) swap right now and have both engine lying but dont want to do without AC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted March 29, 2013 Author Share Posted March 29, 2013 Ok so the radiator definitely doesn't fit, haha. It's narrow enough that it could have sit on top of the frame rails...if it were 4 inches shorter or V-mounted. Oh well. Will be ordering a new one soon. I'd be interested to hear the dimensions that people have run on here. I mounted the shortened shifter yesterday and it looks good. One interesting side effect of shortening the distance between the two U-joints that link the shifter to the trans is that the shifter rotates a bit more as moves through it's side to side travel than I'm used to, but it seems to work well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pharaohabq Posted April 2, 2013 Share Posted April 2, 2013 nice! pull off that shift ball before install or you'll scuff it up like I did mine... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted April 2, 2013 Author Share Posted April 2, 2013 Radiator is ordered, ended up with an ebay special 24x19, it should arrive today. Wiring harness and aerocatch hood latches are supposed to be delivered today as well, hopefully I'll be able to get to EvilC's shop on sunday to mount my engine. I've got all the components for my R200/OBX/280zxt CV swap as well. Once I get that and the engine mounted I should be good to order my driveshaft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted April 15, 2013 Author Share Posted April 15, 2013 Another little update. Mounted my trimmed crossmember and removed the stock trans mounts, hood latch, fuel lines and stock fuel tank. This week I should be able to mount the new tank/pump and lines, and mock up the engine so I can mark where the engine crossmember needs to be welded in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted April 22, 2013 Author Share Posted April 22, 2013 Got the tank painted and ready to install. I'm running a 5/16" aluminum fuel line along a frame rail and that will connect to the existing rubber feed to the fuel rail. The power to the pump will come from a dedicated 12ga set of wires coming from a new relay switched by the ECU. I also removed the stock mounts and manifolds. I'm going to follow Austin's lead and weld a couple of 90 degree bends to the end of the manifold and meet the y pipe of the complete exhaust I bought from EvilC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pharaohabq Posted April 22, 2013 Share Posted April 22, 2013 You might look at the FSM Power/Ground at the IPDM E/R module. I think the stock Fuel pump relay is in there and may not be hard to patch into.(page "PG-27", Pin 23 on the E7 connector) If you have the Body#1 harness, the Fuel pump lines run through it to Body#2 plug B27 a GY/5 connector. it's on the 03 manual page "PG-53" You may need to upgrade fuse 81 fo a 20A if You're going to run it harder, though since you're using the stock pump so I don't expect you'll really need to change that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted April 29, 2013 Author Share Posted April 29, 2013 Progress! The engine and tank are in. Tank was pretty easy, mainly because I woke up late and EvilC did it for me... The engine proved to be a little tricky. The issue because of how tight the fit is between the firewall and crossmember, getting the engine to slot in is difficult. We ended up removing the upper intake plenum (after damaging it and the weatherstrip lip a bit) to get the engine to sit correctly. That said, I was hoping for a little input from others who have done the swap here. With the engine sitting about as low as I am comfortable with and as far back as I can it looks like I'll have to remove a pretty sizable section of the inner hood frame to clear the plenum. I am curious whether others have had the same issue or if I'm sitting higher than most. In any case, here are the pics! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvilC Posted April 29, 2013 Share Posted April 29, 2013 Took a look at it today, we can try to loosen the nut on the top portion of the engine mount along with the bottom one and see if we can get the engine to drop a tad more. It does look doable but not sure it will be enough to clear the hood though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pharaohabq Posted April 29, 2013 Share Posted April 29, 2013 (edited) Yeah the other VQ35DE installs (Austin and Myron) both cut the firewall, into the wiper cowel area to get that last inch or so to fit. The VQ35HR fortunately doesn't have that issue. But anyway, you may find it easier to cut out a little more of your Steering crossmember and bolster it between the mounts for the Steering Rack. That way you should still be able to fit without cutting the firewall. You'll also see that your sensors on the rear of the engine may also have issue, so check that too. I know on my HR I've got water lines back there that are going to be trouble for me. As for the AC, We're working on ideas for a mounting bracket that would move the AC pump out and up a little so it'll clear the Steering shaft. I'm not quite there yet though. Your hood should actually have a pretty good amount of space. Lay a 2x4 across your fenders. You'll see you can have the engine as high as that board and still fit the hood due to the center bulge in the hood fitting over the engine. BTW, great pictures! I'm loving your work! Edited April 29, 2013 by Pharaohabq Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrcheeze36 Posted April 30, 2013 Share Posted April 30, 2013 (edited) I don't believe Austin cut into the firewall https://sites.google.com/a/vq240z.com/www/enginemounts Edited April 30, 2013 by mrcheeze36 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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