Robftw Posted February 12, 2013 Share Posted February 12, 2013 Ill try and keep this updated as parts arrive. Currently waiting on the rotating assembly, scat 1-40900-Bi 4340 3.875 stroke 6" H-beam rods and forged pistons 11.4:1 compression Heads are world products sportsman II built to hell with a complete lunati valvetrain max lift is .660 Hedman headers Msd 8691? I think pro billet dizzy Edelbrock tunnelram with dual 1403 carbs and enderle scoop (Carbs will probably be swapped for holley 450s) Cam is .241/.249 @.50 and .525 /.541 lift 110lsa 106lcl Block is arp studded through out Block Is a 4bolt main 010 high nickle content Pic is of mockup, tracing out gaskets and removing paint for good sealing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
logan1 Posted February 12, 2013 Share Posted February 12, 2013 (edited) damn that looks like a monster. What transmission are you putting behind it and what are the rearend gears going ti be? Edited February 12, 2013 by logan1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robftw Posted February 12, 2013 Author Share Posted February 12, 2013 Th350 most likely. Probably 4.11 if I can find a set for cheap. My friend just sold the ones he had. If not ill settle for a 3.90 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
logan1 Posted February 12, 2013 Share Posted February 12, 2013 Th350 most likely. Probably 4.11 if I can find a set for cheap. My friend just sold the ones he had. If not ill settle for a 3.90 Im in the process of getting my 240z finished up as well. I however have a lil 355 sbc with a Mustang T5 WC and 4.11 R200 diff. Hopefully it all works well together and makes the car a whole lotta fun. Why run a TH350 and not a 700R4? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robftw Posted February 12, 2013 Author Share Posted February 12, 2013 7000R4 cost 2 or 3 times as much to build, 1-2 shift is really crappy ratio and take about 70hp to operate. They also don't really hold up over 500hp.. i already blew one up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robftw Posted February 14, 2013 Author Share Posted February 14, 2013 (edited) Valve train photo, part numbers if anyone is interested. 73925-16 Springs 75794-16 Retainers 77048-16 Locks 78518-16 Seals 86731-16 Locators #73925 Dual Valve Spring 1.306" O.D. 0.676" I.D. 153 lbs. @ 1.810" Seat Load 400 lbs. @ 1.150" Open Load 0.660" Maximum Valve Lift Pushrod guides are 5/16 raised made by allstar performance. They are 18$ on summit. Edited February 14, 2013 by Robftw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsicard Posted February 15, 2013 Share Posted February 15, 2013 Robftw: Which block, GM or aftermarket? Piston manufacturer? Rod manufacturer? Crank manufacturer? Cam manufacturer? Hydraulic or Solid Roller Cam? Rocker Arm Ratio? What block machining? Just curious! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robftw Posted February 15, 2013 Author Share Posted February 15, 2013 Robftw: Which block, GM or aftermarket? Piston manufacturer? Rod manufacturer? Crank manufacturer? Cam manufacturer? Hydraulic or Solid Roller Cam? Rocker Arm Ratio? What block machining? Just curious! Gm Je Scat Acat Lunati Hydraulic flat tappet 1.5 .030 overbore and I will clearance it myself Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted February 16, 2013 Share Posted February 16, 2013 Very similar to my 383 stroker, except the brand of the parts. Should be a solid performer. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted February 20, 2013 Share Posted February 20, 2013 (1) YOU can control to a great degree the amount of torque your applying to the tires by controlling what your foot does on the throttle petal(2) proper tires and suspension mods like modifying air pressure in the tires air shocks, traction bars etc.can be very useful but simply learning how to drive the car and how and when and at what rate you can apply power helps a great deal, that takes practice and experience.Ive built and raced dozens of cars, each is unique and each takes a slightly different drive style, each car will require you to master its flaws and strengths and it makes little difference if its a 400hp street/strip car or a 700hp strip car, your knowledge of how to set up a suspension, recognize how the suspension and tires work together, and work with the cars limitations will make or break the combo to a large extenthttp://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=71&t=372&p=454&hilit=physics+of+racing#p454http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=80&t=906&p=27083&hilit=learning+drive#p27083http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=248&p=295&hilit=needs+500hp#p295http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=87&t=5121&p=14750&hilit=launch+traction#p14750 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robftw Posted February 27, 2013 Author Share Posted February 27, 2013 Saved 500$ going with an eagle crank, its .10 undersize on the rods.. factory regrind. Machine shop checked it out and saw no flaws, I'm happy. I might switch my rods over to scat I beams because the h beams are bigger in an already really tight fit.. we'll see in the next few weeks what happens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robftw Posted July 13, 2013 Author Share Posted July 13, 2013 (edited) Alright time for a huge update, part's have been arriving and im going to assemble this on tuesday.The parts list has changed a little bit since i first started this thread!Scat procomp rods: Mahle forged coated pistons: These only weigh 395 grams each! Super Victor intake, i'm replacing the tunnelram Painting of the block: Had the pan rail clearanced so my crankshaft would fit: Edited July 13, 2013 by Robftw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robftw Posted July 20, 2013 Author Share Posted July 20, 2013 Studded the block with ARP goodies, You can see where klispies had to lighten the crank in this photo. Every counter weight has some material cut off.Everything In place, torqued down.God damn i hate measuring bolt stretch..Gaskets and more ARP studsLast picture i took, The heads have since been torqued down and i'm about to visit home depot for oil pan bolts / balancer bolts & waterpump bolts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jay260z Posted July 28, 2013 Share Posted July 28, 2013 Im curious of what intake runner size you have on your heads, and the lunati part number for your cam? I've got a very similar built motor in my 260z and i will say it really get up and goes and i can't even use its full potential because of some clutch issues i have, having a th350 being built right now actually My motor is a 383 11.3:1 AFR195 237/242@.050 .605/613 lunati solid roller QFT750 and RPM air gap, but may switch to a Victor Jr. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsicard Posted July 29, 2013 Share Posted July 29, 2013 I have also built a 383 stroker with AFR-195 heads and solid roller camshaft. What is the chamber volume of your AFR-195 heads? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jay260z Posted July 29, 2013 Share Posted July 29, 2013 64cc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jay260z Posted July 29, 2013 Share Posted July 29, 2013 64cc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robftw Posted July 31, 2013 Author Share Posted July 31, 2013 Im curious of what intake runner size you have on your heads, and the lunati part number for your cam? I've got a very similar built motor in my 260z and i will say it really get up and goes and i can't even use its full potential because of some clutch issues i have, having a th350 being built right now actually My motor is a 383 11.3:1 AFR195 237/242@.050 .605/613 lunati solid roller QFT750 and RPM air gap, but may switch to a Victor Jr. 200cc intake runner 63.5 cc head. Ill be getting afr 210s after tax season. Cam is a hyd flat tappet .525 / .546 and I don't know the duration off hand, I think the part number was 10605 I'll be going with 600+ lift solid flat tappet whrn I swap to afr's right now im limited due to my heads Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jay260z Posted August 1, 2013 Share Posted August 1, 2013 Those 210's work really well, with all that is done for making lots of HP why not run a Solid Roller over the flat tappet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsicard Posted August 1, 2013 Share Posted August 1, 2013 Recommendation to go to solid roller lifters is very good. Go with CompCams EDM machined in oiling holes in the solid lifters. Then a more aggressive camshaft may be used. This would be a good complement to the AFR-210s and 396 short block. Don't need TOO wild a camshaft. Something with the best amount of area under the HP and TQ curves. Pay close attention to the valve springs used. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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