Jump to content
HybridZ

transmission going out?


col10see

Recommended Posts

As it states im pretty sure my tranny is doing the death march.... it has slowly become harder to switch into third and fifth sometimes if I am lucky I can quickly shift in but that is rare. I replaced the slave and master clutch cylinders and that didnt help much.. I also got the transmission warmed up and changed out the fluid, I did notice some small bits of metal I the old oil. After the new oil was in it was easy to shift for about a week then it got hard again....

 

The question is. Is this a rebuildable situation or is there a 6 speed swap out there that is relatively cheap and easyish? What are my options?

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok an update... it seems to shift now...but it sounds and feels like there is a marble or something bouncing around in there but only every once and a wile very noticeably. The rest of the time its just a slightly noticeable sound in nuetral when idling.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Xnke, a member here can mate up an L-series bell housing to the 240sx S15 6-speed. Its not cheap though. 

 

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/112122-l-series-6-speed-transmission-conversions/?do=findComment&comment=1049331

 

You can also have the KA s13/14 240sx tranny's mated in the same way.

 

It'd be easier and cheaper to find a ZX 5 speed

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Does anyone know if this would work or am i looking at the wrong t5s. Or how much modification it would take? Or am I better off just rebuilding?

 

T-5 tremic 5 speed transmission out of a 94 5.0L Mustang

 

http://www.ksl.com/index.php?nid=218&ad=24785814&cat=&lpid=&search=t5%20transmission&ad_cid=2

Edited by col10see
Link to comment
Share on other sites

post-38288-0-14630200-1366247085_thumb.jpggot the tail section off finally. thanks guys. turns out the tailshaft bearing race came out and went in front of the bearing blocking the striker rod from slipping past so i ended up nocking the lockink pin out of the rod wile it was inside by drilling a hole in the side giving me access wile it was turned enough to remove all the way.post-38288-0-47576200-1366247170_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Does anyone know how tight of a fit the bearing support is supposed to be?

any reason not to weld it in there?

Also were can I find a new brass bearing??? For the drive shaft at the very end of the transmission with the grooves in it.

post-38288-0-93571600-1366248397_thumb.jpg

Edited by col10see
Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can browse around the site below for part numbers and check at the second one for availability.

 

I saw your other question.  I'd guess that many viewers are shocked at the carnage.  Most would probably just get another transmission or tail housing.  The specs. for rebuilding are in the Factory Service Manual in the MT chapter (also below).

 

 

http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsuns30/DatsunFairladyZIndex/PowerTrain/TransmissionCase/5Speed/tabid/1702/Default.aspx

 

http://www.courtesyparts.com/

 

www.xenons130.com/reference

 

www.xenons30.com/reference

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks newzed for the links... I couldnt find that bushing/oil bearing:(

Sadley I think you are right Xnke.. but in the mean time I need a car wile I search for a tranny.

So... since tiging aluminum is one of my skills I am gonna attempt to patch it for now.

 

I had time during my lunch at work to use the welder so I patched the hole I drilled rebuilt the oil splash guard for the vent on the back and built a clamp to pull the tailshaft bearing support back tight wile I tacked it into place in four places trying not to overheat the area.

.post-38288-0-18271600-1366340348_thumb.jpgpost-38288-0-64606000-1366340415_thumb.jpg

 

Hopefully this will buy me some time to save some money up....

 

Also, I know the driveshafts u-joints are " non replaceable " but I have heard of people doing it. Any knowledge of the size or part numbers to replace them with.

Edited by col10see
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Only the early driveshafts (up till about 73 or so) were originally replaceable. Anything 1975+ is generally not replaceable. You need to look and see if you have replaceable joints or not, there will be a C-clip inside the yokes that holds the bearing cups in place.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

wile im in there i figured i would give a go at a short shift mod.

.post-38288-0-74326200-1366388018_thumb.jpgpost-38288-0-86892300-1366388065_thumb.jpg

i got rid of the plastic bushing and pressed in a peice of aluminum also i drilled the hole in the shifter a little off center to make the forward throw a little less...

i will be either using teflon washers nylon or brass to make up the space on the sides.

Edited by col10see
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Only the early driveshafts (up till about 73 or so) were originally replaceable. Anything 1975+ is generally not replaceable. You need to look and see if you have replaceable joints or not, there will be a C-clip inside the yokes that holds the bearing cups in place.

ok thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the marble noise was the splash guard on the bearing support. part of it broke off and was making the noise as it was being refined into little shiny bits in the tranny oil. 

havent tried fitting it yet since it has been welded but it fit snugly before...i am going to flush out the gears and syncros and bearings tonight as they still look brand new, comparing them to the kit i just bought. but i will follow up on that.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's not a splash guard, that's the actual bearing support. I would suspect that bearing of being bad unless you broke that during the tailshaft removal. Hope the welding works out for you, but I have my doubts that it will.

 

Bearings don't "look new", they either are new, or they have XXX,XXX miles on them. If you wash them out with brake cleaner and spin them, they should spin smoothly with very little or no noise at all.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cleaned it all up, bearings may not be brand new but they felt good so i guess i miss spoke, obviously ive been driving it for 6 mo plus how ever Many miles on it wile it was in the prev owner put on it. but they are clean quiet not binding and feel tight within the races.all acting very close to the new bearings in the kit I have. Cleaned all the gears And slipped it together tighend the rear section on to the center section and put it back on the vise and spun it, it was quiet. The shifter shifts smooth and there it no play in the output.

 

I thought it was a splash gaurd on the back of the bearing support to keep oil from coming out of the vent broke off, thats what I was meaning to say maybe I missed it. I belive it was from driveshaf vibration that the support worked loose and forward of the bearing.

 

 

Im a dummy however and forgot to note what direction the rev check goes.

Like this?

post-38288-0-28317000-1366579633_thumb.jpg

Edited by col10see
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Just an update so far no issues been about 200miles or so and no issues. Also I replaced the bolts on the driveline with some new ones and the shakes are gone too. So out of the whole mess it ended up working out.

 

Thanks for all the help!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...