Jwinnsrt Posted April 27, 2013 Share Posted April 27, 2013 What would u guys recommend to remove the u joint bolts. I'm trying to install new springs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhm Posted April 28, 2013 Share Posted April 28, 2013 If you're talking about the bolts on the half-shafts that comprise the rear axle, I use combination of open-end and box-end wrenches (13mm, if I remember correctly). It's pretty tight quarters in there, so a variety of lengths and wrench thicknesses can help you find the best combination. It also helps to spin the axle to get each bolt in the optimum position for loosening. And obviously, penetrating oil and heat can help if your bolts are corroded. Hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuoWing Posted May 23, 2013 Share Posted May 23, 2013 I was going to start a new topic, but I figured I'd throw this here. I've seen many people say when changing U-joints to use the big hammer and a socket method. I'm sure if I continue beating it for a while that it should slowly come out, but seems like a pain. Some people say use a press, but some say that using a press or a ball joint press/vice can ruin the ears on the axle? Is there any consensus on any of this. Does everyone just use the hammer method or is the press fine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted May 23, 2013 Share Posted May 23, 2013 Heat makes a huge difference. It doesn't have to be about- to-warp-red-hot. I used a vice, some sockets or pipe fittings and a MAPP gas torch. Tightened up the vice and it wouldn't budge until I got it warm. It would stop moving as it cooled. Heat will make the hammer method easier also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhm Posted May 23, 2013 Share Posted May 23, 2013 The original poster was wanting to install new springs, so I'm assuming he was asking how to unbolt the half-shafts from the axle in order to get more droop/extension to remove the rear springs. He hasn't chimed in since his original post 3 weeks ago, so I'm not sure if he ever got the info he needed. I think the thread title "U joints" might be misleading of the original intent of this thread, but you guys have actually led it in a useful direction relevant to the title...kudos! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuoWing Posted May 23, 2013 Share Posted May 23, 2013 (edited) Yeah that's why I figured I'd post in this thread. Good tip on the heat. Reading around the internet and the way people talk about make sure you install the axle exactly as it came apart, and these things are all supposed to be specially balanced and heat treated, I wasn't sure if using heat on it was a good idea. It didn't occur just heat it until it loosens. I also have a MAPP gas torch and they do come in pretty handy. Anyway I went up to Autozone and rented the ball joint press tool and then I just used my impact to drive the u-joint through. My vice is unfortunately not big enough to put the half-shaft, and two sockets... Edited May 23, 2013 by DuoWing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuoWing Posted May 25, 2013 Share Posted May 25, 2013 I figured I'd throw this here as well. Back when I first started my motor swap I got two Spicer U-joints. Not knowing much about U-joints and that you could order them through MSA the mechanic who was helping me opted to install one joint in each half shaft. The remaining u-joint in the driver's side half shaft needs replaced. I not realizing that MSA sold two types of u-joint ordered the standard thinking I was ordering the Spicer. Should have realized when the price was so cheap. Anyway I have the GMB or whatever brand, I installed one into my halfshaft and went to grease it. I can only get grease to come out of the one cap. To the point where I'm feeling extra pressure and it's all then backing up from the zerk fitting. I was doing a search and found this to not really be a good thing so I went ahead and opened up the other GMB u-joint. Took all 4 caps off, hooked up my grease gun. Only managed to get grease to come from 2 of the sections of the joint before it started backing up. Thinking maybe it's me or my gun, I remembered I did have a spare Precision joint I never used. Took the caps off and hooked up my grease gun. Grease comes from all 4 points no problem. Are these GMB joints just junk? I don't really want to put the half shaft back in my car with a joint that's going to likely fail soon. I think I'm just gonna find somewhere to order the Spicers or go buy the brute force joints. Also I saw it mentioned on some Z forum that the Spicer joints for the Z are really just reboxed Neapco joints. Anyone have any info on this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.