rturbo 930 Posted June 4, 2013 Author Share Posted June 4, 2013 (edited) Any deposit I would accept for ANY car that is up for sale would be "non-refundable"--the purpose of putting the car up for sale is to sell it...holding off other buyers is a well known tactic in CA...give them a deposit, wait till they've run off all other suitors...then show up and lowball... If you wanted a refundable deposit, then it's not really a deposit is it? It's rental. If someone comes with a "refundable deposit" and someone else show cash-in-hand, you can't fault the guy for selling it and handing you back your money with a smile and a "sorry dude!" Good point. I guess it's just gonna be a matter of timing, luck, and a cooperative seller. Again line up 3 to 4 cars in an area drive around, look, buy, drive! I'm looking specifically for a lighter, series one chassis, that has never been hit, has little to no rust, is fairly complete/original, and hasn't been ruined by incompetent owners. I've been looking in basically the left half of the US where the climate is drier, and there's about 3-4 cars for sale in that entire region. Lining up 3-4 cars in an area isn't possible, because there aren't 3-4 cars for sale. Not to mention, I'd have to count on each of those sellers not to sell out from under me while arranging plane tickets, etc. I can't fly off to the other side of the country on a moment's notice. That's just not realistic. I'm just going to have to be patient. Edited June 4, 2013 by rturbo 930 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leon Posted June 4, 2013 Share Posted June 4, 2013 That's what I've done it in the past. But if I find a good car, I want to be able to do it much more quickly than that. And put an emphasis on 'refundable'. The deposit is mostly so that I can buy some time to actually check out the car which will probably involve getting a member here to do it. But I have time to figure it out. The two I had my eye on aren't turning out well. One sold (or something), the other car is a little odd. It's been stolen (but wasn't reported), the dash and door jamb VIN tags are missing (assuming when it was stolen), and although he has a clear title for it, it's titled as a 1971. Thing is, it's an early '70 car (019xx). And while those issues don't bother me too much, it has a bit more rust than I'd like. I can't tell if the pass. frame rail has rust on it, but it doesn't look like paint on it. See pics. Dear god, that is not the kind of Z you want to get if you're willing to come to CA! You should be able to find one without any holes or cancer with relative ease in the drier climates. Tony summed up the "refundable" deal well. No point of putting in a deposit if it's refundable... Good point. I guess it's just gonna be a matter of timing, luck, and a cooperative seller. I'm looking specifically for a lighter, series one chassis, that has never been hit, has little to no rust, is fairly complete/original, and hasn't been ruined by incompetent owners. I've been looking in basically the left half of the US where the climate is drier, and there's about 3-4 cars for sale in that entire region. Lining up 3-4 cars in an area isn't possible, because there aren't 3-4 cars for sale. Not to mention, I'd have to count on each of those sellers not to sell out from under me while arranging plane tickets, etc. I can't fly off to the other side of the country on a moment's notice. That's just not realistic. I'm just going to have to be patient. I hope you have some money saved up... That kind of car won't be cheap. If that's what you want and can't settle for a later car, when you find a car ask the seller for detailed photos of all areas that you would actually inspect and try to get a forum member out there to check it out for you. If it's to your satisfaction, put down a deposit and fly out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rturbo 930 Posted June 4, 2013 Author Share Posted June 4, 2013 (edited) Yeah, I'm expecting to pay around the 5-7k range, plus shipping or gas to drive it back. I'm gonna sell off some parts I don't need, and probably my BMW too, and that should give me enough to work with. I have too many cars anyway, and my BMW needs more doors. Mostly just getting a feel for the market right now, but I've seen a few that are within my current budget...but they never last long. Here's a few that most most/all of my req's: http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/cto/3809379761.html http://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/cto/3826826498.html http://sacramento.craigslist.org/cto/3834643089.html And yeah, that Z I posted pics of was a bit too rusty, haha. I'm okay with a little rust, but only very, very little. Edited June 4, 2013 by rturbo 930 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted June 5, 2013 Share Posted June 5, 2013 (edited) "I'm looking specifically for a lighter, series one chassis, that has never been hit, has little to no rust, is fairly complete/original, and hasn't been ruined by incompetent owners." Ruined is subjective, and apparently it has to run.... You range is around where it will reside. My last $5K 240 came with a truck end of parts...mainly things the previous owner "ruined" but had the forethought to save the original parts and put them away. Like adding a trailer hitch...on hole in the bumper? Spare bumper in His Hoarde. Supercharged EFI L28? Original Matching-Number L24 complete in His Hoarde. Matching Simpson Racing Buckets? Original Seats wrapped in Plastic in His Hoarde. I can take off all the PO's prior ruination and put it back to bone stock if I so desire. But some might not consider what he did "ruining it" LOL 9/71 production date...on Craigslist. They sold to me ( and were willing to drop the price to 4K due to registration fess! ) because I wasn't quibbling over the price. Rust free Early Car...how rust free was actually a surprise to me when I saw it in person...The Valley has pristine cars! Now hear near the Beach! Fer sher, really, ya know? Like, totally! Edited June 5, 2013 by Tony D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rturbo 930 Posted June 6, 2013 Author Share Posted June 6, 2013 Ruined is subjective, and apparently it has to run.... This is true, so let me give a few examples of what I would consider 'ruined' -Any kind of custom body work (fender flares, side skirts, spoilers, hood vents or scoops, etc). Caked on bondo... -Hacked up wiring. I have two spare wiring harnesses, but I'm not really looking to use them... -Poorly installed stereo, IE, huge holes in the door and door panel and/or what would be the tool compartment behind the seats on later 240Zs. -Pretty much any kind of cutting or welding on the chassis. I want a stock body. Even though I'll be modifying (or ruining - your call) the car, I want a clean slate. I don't want to be fixing other people's "repairs" or "improvements." Hope that clears that up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted June 9, 2013 Share Posted June 9, 2013 Ask for the current owners last letter in their surname... If its a "Z"... Your wiring and stereo bugaboos likely will have been inflicted on the car in SoCal... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvilC Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 Are you only looking at 240z cars? That car you posted a pic of looks like a NY car that has seen lots of snow. I know of a 280z that is for sale in your price range and maybe a 260z. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rturbo 930 Posted June 10, 2013 Author Share Posted June 10, 2013 (edited) Are you only looking at 240z cars? That car you posted a pic of looks like a NY car that has seen lots of snow. I know of a 280z that is for sale in your price range and maybe a 260z. Yeah, only 240Zs. Here's what I'm after: I'm looking specifically for a lighter, series one chassis, that has never been hit, has little to no rust, is fairly complete/original, and hasn't been ruined by incompetent owners. And yeah, the one I posted pics of was pretty rusty by CA standards, but still better than what I have, and what I've seen for sale around here. And just for the record, I only have about 2500 right now. I only made the thread because I saw what looked like a pretty solid and original Z for $2500. It sold in a few days though. Once I liquidate some of the crap I have laying around here, I should have closer to 7-8k, hopefully. Right now, I'm really just trying to see what a nice Z goes for, as I'm not familiar with the Z market. Edited June 10, 2013 by rturbo 930 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leon Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 I'd expect to pay at least $6-8k for what you describe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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