RebekahsZ Posted June 1, 2013 Share Posted June 1, 2013 (edited) The latest of many brake master cylinders I have installed is the 15/16" version. When I swapped it, I didn't know how to adjust the little sloppy link inside the master cylinder. So, anticipating aggravation, I installed a set of front caliper flex lines in-line with the hard lines that usually connect the master cyl to the rest of the brake system. After a year of having a firm, but low pedal, I finally got around to adjusting the length of the rod. The flex lines made it super easy with no brake bleeding required. I made an intial adjustment of the rod using a tooth pick to estimate the changes I needed to make-that wound up being too short, then I made one adjustment that was too long, then (like the 3 bears) I made an adjustment that was just right. The flex lines made the whole job a breeze. My only question is: there is no lock nut on the little push rod?? Edited June 1, 2013 by RebekahsZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miles Posted June 1, 2013 Share Posted June 1, 2013 No lock nut. Usually the threads on that adjuster are tight enough to hold it in place. You could put some blue Loctite on the adjuster threads if you are concerned about it moving. Could you post some pictures of how you did the flex lines? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted June 1, 2013 Author Share Posted June 1, 2013 Sure. It will be next week, but I'd be happy to. Thanks for confirming "no lock nut." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beermanpete Posted June 1, 2013 Share Posted June 1, 2013 No lock nut. It seems to have interference designed into the thread fit. Why the engineer did not provide 2 sets of wrench flats is beyond me though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted June 2, 2013 Author Share Posted June 2, 2013 beerman-that's no lie! You know, I've had those vise grips laying around the shop for years and I finally found something to do with them. Also, I don't have either an SAE or metric wrench that fits the hex portion, so I used that tiny little crescent wrench that my dad gave me for like my 6th birthday. Still had my initial on it in fingernail polish so my brother couldn't steal my tools! Thank goodness I didn't drop the reaction disc! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leon Posted June 3, 2013 Share Posted June 3, 2013 I like the soft-line idea, also curious about implementation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miles Posted June 4, 2013 Share Posted June 4, 2013 Actually, there is enough flex in the MC hard lines that you can pull the MC out and away from the booster to allow ajustment of the push rod. Not sure if ther would be enough flex in the hard lines to change a booster though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m1ghtymaxXx Posted June 4, 2013 Share Posted June 4, 2013 When I installed the Wilwood MC i was unable to turn the pushrod on the threads. I ended up trashing the threads with vice grips but still never got it to turn. Thankfully the adjustment was within a millimeter of where I measured it needed to be, and it worked flawlessly sans adjustment. It looks the the MC that came in the car was from an early 240Z, so perhaps in replacing it, a previous owner got creative with locking the pushrod in place. Since there wasn't a trace of rust, perhaps the threads were glued in place... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuoWing Posted June 4, 2013 Share Posted June 4, 2013 When I got my remanned Centric booster, I had a heck of a time adjusting the pushrod on it. Once I finally got it to move it loosened up and became very easy to adjust. They may come with some sort of thread locker on them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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