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madkaw

Ms3x install

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Yes - I did some reading and realized that it needed to be mounted on top of the intake- which probably isn’t going to happen. I don’t think I’m ready to give up on the IAC .

Besides - I’m having other issues right now

 I’m pretty sure my CAS is giving me issues - so I’m troubleshooting it right now.

Found greasy condensation mess in my PCB coming from my MAP sensor . 

Also checking voltage for my VR sensor circuit. 

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So the engine is running pretty good. What I’ve noticed is that the TPS is not as sensitive as I would like it to be. It does not register off-idle as accurately as it should. I can move the throttle enough to bring the rpms up from 1k to 1500 and TS won’t even show movement. I’ve tried adjusting, calibrating , but it seems to be an issue of the TPS not being sensitive enough to small inputs. It is an aftermarket for my 240sx TB. And I have replaced it recently. I probably should have ponied up for a Nissan one. What I think it is doing is showing me at idle when I’m not . 

I guess I need to check voltages everywhere.

I did verify that my sensor voltage coming from the MS is 4.95v. I need to test this at my sensors. 

Ordered a new O2 gauge . Ordered the Spartan gauge to match my Spartan wideband, maybe my numbers which match each other now. 

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6 hours ago, Gollum said:

Sounds like a issue at the tps itself. I'm using a Nissan KA24 TPS on the L28ET throttle and it's extremely precise and responsive throughout the range.

Remember what year you used?

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41 minutes ago, madkaw said:

Remember what year you used?

 

No idea. I just went to the junkyard and looked around until I found one. It has the same three pin connector on the top as the L series ones, but another pig tail coming out of it's bottom. Resolution isn't a problem, as it's nearly infinitely variable. The smallest possible change causes a resistance change. If you're having resolution issues it sounds like it's stepping, which doesn't sound right at all.

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So I’ll share my drama from my last couple of months . Engine just wasn’t running right and I swore I had a miss, but engine acted like it had a hunting idle.

I knew my MAP sensor was questionable since I got it from the JY. I decided to buy a genuine new GM from Rock auto. Received it and checked it before install and it was bad out of the box. Sent it back and got another, this one has been working correctly. My Map Daddy that is on my board is bad also. I think it ruined from gunk running down the vacuum line. Current MAP sensor is installed above the intake!

Engine still ran like poop, and I knew it had a misfire for some reason. Bought one of those HEI spark testers to test the coils . Found a coil that wouldn’t jump the spark - BINGO- I thought. Bought some used ones to replace my used ones and it still wasn’t right. Examined my GM plug wires with less than 10k miles and they didn’t look that great . Had a couple of extra wires and swapped some out. Ran slightly better but didn’t trust them. 

Because if the bad weather , most of my troubleshooting was idling in the garage. When I finally got out on the road the car sputtered up any hill at low rpm. WOT she still got it , but any low rpm loading caused major issues.

All this time I was checking everything else on the engine; timing , tune , software updates , wiring , I just had re- wired the whole fuse box. 

Did a lot of reading and read how easy these logic coils will fire off. Little over 2 volts across the logic side and boom. 

I broke down and ordered MSD wires and new plugs. FIXED!

Have to keep all the spark in the boots or these d585 will fire off. Pretty scary if you are running a turbo ( Gollum -are you reading ?) 

 

Hopefully the drama is over .Time to get my cam sensor working .

 

Side note: Timing light is NOT an effective tool to troubleshoot spark with wasted spark and d-585 coils. The flash is erratic . I saw wasted spark flashes on 3 of the cylinders and half that speed on the other cylinders 

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Additional info to Steve's plight. A lot of the Auto-Discharge issues that you see on different pots are NOT due to excessive dwell. Especially on OEM GM, AC Delco and Delphi coils. Rather it is due to electrical noise or EMI. " D585" coils are particularly sensitive to EMI.  Things like leaking plug wires and improper grounding can Trigger the Auto-Discharge feature.

 

Ye you read that right.  " Feature "... GM has an " Anti-Stall " algorithm built into the Logic software that will Auto Discharge the the coils if RPM falls too low . It adds timing very quickly to prevent stalling. However, it can also be triggered by electrical noise . This is what I suspect was happening with Steve's engine and the leaky GM wires. Why they failed so quickly is a mystery, but they had text book failure signs. White burn through marks and splits in insulation. I feel that even though the GM leads were stock, the HT leads were bent too sharply on  an L-6 install and this stressed the insulation, causing it to fail. On GM LS motors the lead wires have a very gentle curve. Something to think about.

 

BTW,  giving credit where credit is due. I found out about the GM " Anti Stall " feature from a very advanced discussion on Ignition systems at EFI university. Paul from Pantera EFI was explaining the D585 auto-discharge problem and posted info on the GM logic coil issues and EMI. Andy Wyatt has also commented on D585 coils sensitivity to EMI. If memory serves me correct, the Pantera EFI coils do not include the Anti Stall algorithm and this makes them much less sensitive to Auto Discharge. 

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Just thinking out loud here. You may ask... " But why would Steve's ignitionbe OK at WOT but not at  at low RPM's? "  Well, you have to look at Steve's tune and engine combo to understand why.

 

Steve's engine is NA. That makes a big difference. At WOT it is actually easier to fire the plugs than at low loads. WOT has richer mixtures that are easier to fire off than lean mixtures. Steve is also able to run very Lean low speed and Cruise AFR's due to the big spark energy from the GM coils. I believe his last table had a low RPM and Cruise range AFR at 15.0 to one. That's perfectly acceptable with big spark energy. And I believe that Steve is running NGK BPR6ES-11 plugs with a 1.1mm or .041" gap. 

 

The combination of Lean mixture ( raises Voltage required to initiate spark ) and wider plug gaps raised the spark plug firing point to more than the damaged insulation in the GM leads could handle.  This created a lot of EMI and Triggered the Anti Stall/Auto discharge feature on the GM coils. Thus the low speed misfire.  I'm betting it would also be worse on rainy days if Steve took it out in the rain

 

 If it was a Turbo car,  the leaking plug leads would have been easier to identify ( You had to look at them very closely to see the damage ). Boost raises ignition energy well above what you need with a NA engine at WOT.

 

Magnacore has some excellent articles on  HT Lead damage and effects. It doesn't take much to cause a problem. 

 

 

 

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