madkaw Posted September 24, 2013 Author Share Posted September 24, 2013 Starting to find places for all the wires Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted October 3, 2013 Author Share Posted October 3, 2013 Really having a hard time deciding how to route all the wires. Maybe it's because I know I will be drilling holes into my firewall and its got to be right. From what I have been reading In regards to 'noise', it seems prudent to keep my sensor wiring well away from anything else. I plan on mounting the "box" to the trans tunnel passenger side close to the firewall - harnesses facing forward. I will split the main harness in 2 sections keeping the sensors apart from everything else. I will probably run the sensor wires thru my old choke cable hole and run the rest of the main harness thru another spot( maybe my A/C holes). Any suggestions Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted October 7, 2013 Author Share Posted October 7, 2013 Got my coil bracket done-almost!! A few loose ends to do, but was excited to see stock LS1 wires worked out well. So no expensive custom sets to make. Got these wires on ebay(stock GM) for 24$ shipped! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadowen925 Posted October 23, 2013 Share Posted October 23, 2013 (edited) Hey, I'm doing basically the same install as you. Do you have any digital copies of your wiring I could review? Also, I'd really like to see how you did your trigger wheel. I really need to figure out how to do one for my car. Thanks, Ben Edited October 23, 2013 by Shadowen925 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted October 23, 2013 Author Share Posted October 23, 2013 Ben, not sure what you mean as far as digital copies of my wiring. I am going straight off the pages of MS3 manual schematics. As far as a trigger wheel-not tested , but should work in theroy-see pic. I am going to use a hall effect sensor for a direct Flywheel trigger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadowen925 Posted October 24, 2013 Share Posted October 24, 2013 Ben, not sure what you mean as far as digital copies of my wiring. I am going straight off the pages of MS3 manual schematics. As far as a trigger wheel-not tested , but should work in theroy-see pic. I am going to use a hall effect sensor for a direct Flywheel trigger Nice! I'm wanting to do COP with my MS3, but I wasn't sure what i was going to do for a trigger. Turns out I've got an 81 engine with the 90 notch wheel, so I'll just shave that down. Thanks for the picture, I would like to see how it works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted October 24, 2013 Author Share Posted October 24, 2013 Put up a picture of that flywheel when you can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted October 25, 2013 Author Share Posted October 25, 2013 Anyone want to confirm for me that I can wire my injectors NON-sequential using the MS3X connector? The MS manual makes it sound like it's better to wire batch injection off the main connector. It looks like to me that the firmware can make the adjustment to the non sequential -but want to make sure before I starting running wires. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted October 25, 2013 Author Share Posted October 25, 2013 I guess I should do more reading and less posting-LOL Looks like MS has answered my question again. Semi-sequential in MS3 operates for fuel like 'wasted-COP' does for spark. Each output operates once every 360 degrees with half the fuel required for a full cycle. A cam sensor is not typically required to run semi-sequential, just a crank sensor.Due to the way the code operates, there are a number of restrictions in this mode and cylinder trim is not possible.Semi-sequential may however, but a useful 'stepping-stone' during an install as the injector wiring is identical to full sequential. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted November 5, 2013 Author Share Posted November 5, 2013 Well the other day was all about sorting wires. I won't be using all the wires for my build or future builds and I would prefer to only have one wire bundle running thru my firewall. So I got out my wiring diagrams supplied by DIY and started the process of elimination. There is some redundancy with the MS3X card which allows this plus there is enough wiring to do more then 6 cylinders. Without selling myself short i think I eliminated at least 20 wires. When I say eliminate, I will be just bundling them aside and storing them somewhere out of the way in the car. I've decided to seperate all sensor wiring and running them a different route. The main harness will go thru the firewall where the holes are for my AC that come out under the batter tray. The sensor wiring will run behind the heater box and enter the engine compartment thru the old choke hole. This gets all sensor wiring away from power grounds, plus most sensors will be coming from that side of the engine anyway. In the end I had all the wires I will be using in one harness and all the others in another. I decided to mount the box where you see it. This allows for for a smooth flow of wires and easy access to my SD card. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted January 10, 2014 Author Share Posted January 10, 2014 Not a lot of progress, but mother nature has grounded the Z so I have started routing the MS. I thought i would post of some pics showing how far the 8ft harness goes. Taking into consideration that my box is mounted on the trans tunnel and routes out the AC holes in the passenger footwell, the wires still reach all the way to the front of the engine. I'm cutting it kind of close, but I don't think the 12ft wires are needed. Mounting the MS box on the passenger side kick panel would have gained me another foot of wire if needed. I'm going to wrap the unused wire up as shown and just hand them out of the way behind the blower motor. I was able to route the sensor wires behind the heater box to the drivers side and they will go thru the firewall at the choke grommet. Next I need to make a grounding strap/bar that will be attached at the block where my coils attach. I am thinking of making a copper strap that fits inside my coil bracket that I will attach all my ground too. There isn't a whole lot of options when it comes to direct grounds to the block. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted January 22, 2014 Author Share Posted January 22, 2014 Questions regarding wire eliminations; I am probably going with PWM idle control and PWM control for additional devices(electric fan, etc..) It seems that the 3X plug should cover about anything i want to run. It doesn't seem like I am using the main plug for much more then powering the MS and sensors. At this rate I am eliminating 14 wires from the main plug-but don't want to short myself. What reason would I need any of the digital outputs or spare pins on the main plug? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winstonusmc Posted January 22, 2014 Share Posted January 22, 2014 I would keep the injector wires as you could always use those for whatever solenoids you want. Chop off the GM idle control wires. The apares would only be handy if you had the V3.0 board. If you are unsure, just coil them IP and leave them under the dash. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted January 22, 2014 Author Share Posted January 22, 2014 Probably won't chop anything off permantely. I will just keep them out of the way. I am just trying to make sure I pulled enough thru the firewall for now. I read where you can use the extra injector wires as drivers or for an extra set of injectors, but I thought pulling all of the medium current outputs from the 3X loom would cover any additional soleniods . As far as the 3x loom, it looks like I am going to run about everything except the Launch in,n2O,tablesw, PT4. I might not run all the 'analogue in' either. I might have one available for fuel pressure. I have also decided to try and come up with something using a hall sensor to make a cam sensor. Now that I have researched what it takes to have a signal for sequential, I might as well take a stab at it. Thinking of creating something using the dizzy drive. Maybe along the lines of the Jeep 4.0 cam sensor. appreciate the input Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted January 24, 2014 Author Share Posted January 24, 2014 Well an outside temp of 5 degrees and snow on the ground should kep this project rolling-LOL I finished up my grounding busbar and hooked up all ground wires that MS said needed to go directly to the block. I basically removed any paint and sanded down the bosses on the block so the copper bar seats against the bare metal of the block. My thinking is this will provide a solid ground connection with lot's of area contact. My coil bracket basically mounts right on top of the grounding strap/bar and sandwiches it against the block firmly. The heater hose is attached to my coil bracket. It is tight, but everything fits and I can still get the oil dipstick out. The wiring should be mostly out of sight and out of the way. It seems everytime you get into one of these ventures you realize that every mm of room counts. Now to wire up them coils!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted January 28, 2014 Author Share Posted January 28, 2014 Signal ground for coil wiring ms3? I know where earth ground should go, but not sure where the brown signal ground wire goes. I'll keep searching Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobythevan Posted January 28, 2014 Share Posted January 28, 2014 I connected my "PWR" grounds from the LS1 coils to the engine block on a short run of wire to keep them out of the wire loom. I connected the "signal" grounds to the terminal where I ground all of the megasquirt grounds. This terminal is also grounded to the engine block. In affect everything is grounded at the engine block, but the important thing in my mind is not running the coil "PWR" grounds through any of the wiring harness which could allow switching noise to couple into other wires in the harness. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted January 28, 2014 Author Share Posted January 28, 2014 Well as you can see from the pics , my coil wiring is right by my engine grounds. I seperated all my sensor wires away from all my other wiring. There is only one power ground running from the LS1 wire harness and one signal ground. So I can ground both of them at the block? The megamanual shows the signal ground to the ms3 and the earth to the 3x- whatever that means. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobythevan Posted January 28, 2014 Share Posted January 28, 2014 Yes, everything grounded to the same spot (engine block) is good. I like the copper bar. You know this already, but the important piece is to make sure all connections to the engine block are electrically clean. So, wherever the battery grounds, the two bolts on the copper bar and anywhere else that other grounds connect need to be clean metal and using dieletric grease is a good idea. If things are grounded to the body, then making sure each ground point is clean and connecting the body to the engine block will make for a real clean system. You are starting with a really good approach using the copper bar. Did I say I liked that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winstonusmc Posted January 28, 2014 Share Posted January 28, 2014 The sensor wire grounds are more for the sensors that use ground as a reference, as the temp and tps sensors. They have to have a pretty accurate ground to read correctly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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