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So I found a true Nissan TPS at the JY and it is so much more accurate !  Don’t even know what model it came off of, but it works. Didn’t need to preload it or anything 

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Really having a hard time deciding how to route all the wires. Maybe it's because I know I will be drilling holes into my firewall and its got to be right.

From what I have been reading In regards to 'noise', it seems prudent to keep my sensor wiring well away from anything else.

I plan on mounting the "box" to the trans tunnel passenger side close to the firewall - harnesses facing forward. I will split the main harness in 2 sections keeping the sensors apart from everything else. I will probably run the sensor wires thru my old choke cable hole and run the rest of the main harness thru another spot( maybe my A/C holes).

Any suggestions

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  • 3 weeks later...

Ben,

not sure what you mean as far as digital copies of my wiring. I  am going straight off the pages of MS3 manual schematics.

As far as a trigger wheel-not tested , but should work in theroy-see pic. I am going to use a hall effect sensor for a direct Flywheel trigger

 

Nice! I'm wanting to do COP with my MS3, but I wasn't sure what i was going to do for a trigger. Turns out I've got an 81 engine with the 90 notch wheel, so I'll just shave that down.

Thanks for the picture, I would like to see how it works.

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Anyone want to confirm for me that I can wire my injectors NON-sequential using the MS3X connector? The MS manual makes it sound like it's better to wire batch injection off  the main connector. It looks like to me that the firmware can make the adjustment to the non sequential -but want to make sure before I starting running wires. 

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I guess I should do more reading and less posting-LOL  Looks like MS has answered my question again.

 

Semi-sequential in MS3 operates for fuel like 'wasted-COP' does for spark. Each output operates once every 360 degrees with half the fuel required for a full cycle. A cam sensor is not typically required to run semi-sequential, just a crank sensor.
Due to the way the code operates, there are a number of restrictions in this mode and cylinder trim is not possible.
Semi-sequential may however, but a useful 'stepping-stone' during an install as the injector wiring is identical to full sequential.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well the other day was all about sorting wires. I won't be using all the wires for my build or future builds and I would prefer to only have one wire bundle running thru my firewall. So I got out my wiring diagrams supplied by DIY and started the process of elimination. There is some redundancy with the MS3X card which allows this plus there is enough wiring to do more then 6 cylinders.  Without selling myself short i think I eliminated at least 20 wires. When I say eliminate, I will be just bundling them aside and storing them somewhere out of the way in the car.

I've decided to seperate all sensor wiring and running them a different route. The main harness will go thru the firewall where the holes are for my AC that come out under the batter tray. The sensor wiring will run behind the heater box and enter the engine compartment thru the old choke hole. This gets all sensor wiring away from power grounds, plus most sensors will be coming from that side of the engine anyway.

In the end I had all the wires I will be using in one harness and all the others in another. 

I decided to mount the box where you see it. This allows for for a smooth flow of wires and easy access to my SD card.  

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  • 2 months later...

Not a lot of progress, but mother nature has grounded the Z so I have started routing the MS. I thought i would post of some pics showing how far the 8ft harness goes. Taking into consideration that my box is mounted on the trans tunnel and routes out the AC holes in the passenger footwell, the wires still reach all the way to the front of the engine. I'm cutting it kind of close, but I don't think the 12ft wires are needed. Mounting the MS box on the passenger side kick panel would have gained me another foot of wire if needed.

I'm going to wrap the unused wire up as shown and just hand them out of the way behind the blower motor. I was able to route the sensor wires behind the heater box to the drivers side and they will go thru the firewall at the choke grommet.

 

Next I need to make a grounding strap/bar that will be attached at the block where my coils attach. I am thinking of making a copper strap that fits inside my coil bracket that I will attach all my ground too. There isn't a whole lot of options when it comes to direct grounds to the block.     

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  • 2 weeks later...

Questions regarding wire eliminations;

 

I am probably going with PWM idle control and PWM control for additional devices(electric fan, etc..) It seems that the 3X plug should cover about anything i want to run. It doesn't seem like I am using the main plug for much more then powering the MS and sensors. At this rate I am eliminating 14 wires from the main plug-but don't want to short myself.

 

What reason would I need any of the digital outputs or spare pins on the main plug?

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Probably won't chop anything off permantely. I will just keep them out of the way. I am just trying to make sure I pulled enough thru the firewall for now.

I read where you can use the extra injector wires as drivers or for an extra set of injectors, but I thought pulling all of the medium current outputs from the 3X loom would cover any additional soleniods .

 

As far as the 3x loom, it looks like I am going to run about everything except the Launch in,n2O,tablesw, PT4. I might not run all the 'analogue in' either. I might have one available for fuel pressure.

 

I have also decided to try and come up with something using a hall sensor to make a cam sensor. Now that I have researched what it takes to have a signal for sequential, I might as well take a stab at it. Thinking of creating something using the dizzy drive. Maybe along the lines of the Jeep 4.0 cam sensor.

 

appreciate the input

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Well an outside temp of 5 degrees and snow on the ground should kep this project rolling-LOL

 

I finished up my grounding busbar and hooked up all ground wires that MS said needed to go directly to the block. I basically removed any paint and sanded down the bosses on the block so the copper bar seats against the bare metal of the block. My thinking is this will provide a solid ground connection with lot's of area contact.

My coil bracket basically mounts right on top of the grounding strap/bar and sandwiches it against the block firmly. The heater hose is attached to my coil bracket. 

It is tight, but everything fits and I can still get the oil dipstick out. The wiring should be mostly out of sight and out of the way.

 

It seems everytime you get into one of these ventures you realize that every mm of room counts.  

 

Now to wire up them coils!!

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I connected my "PWR" grounds from the LS1 coils to the engine block on a short run of wire to keep them out of the wire loom.  I connected the "signal" grounds to the terminal where I ground all of the megasquirt grounds.  This terminal is also grounded to the engine block.  In affect everything is grounded at the engine block, but the important thing in my mind is not running the coil "PWR" grounds through any of the wiring harness which could allow switching noise to couple into other wires in the harness.

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Well as you can see from the pics , my coil wiring is right by my engine grounds. I seperated all my sensor wires away from all my other wiring.

There is only one power ground running from the LS1 wire harness and one signal ground. So I can ground both of them at the block?

The megamanual shows the signal ground to the ms3 and the earth to the 3x- whatever that means.

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Yes, everything grounded to the same spot (engine block) is good.  I like the copper bar.  You know this already, but the important piece is to make sure all connections to the engine block are electrically clean.  So, wherever the battery grounds, the two bolts on the copper bar and anywhere else that other grounds connect need to be clean metal and using dieletric grease is a good idea.  If things are grounded to the body, then making sure each ground point is clean and connecting the body to the engine block will make for a real clean system.  You are starting with a really good approach using the copper bar.  Did I say I liked that :icon46:

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