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madkaw

Ms3x install

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I decided to tidy up some of my wiring. I had too much wire coming off of my relays and things were getting cluttered around the battery cables. 

I also got my IAT installed in my CAI(bottom left) and wired up. I ran my 5v lead out to the end of my box for a TPS if I decide to install one on my triples. Cam sensor wire is there too for future install.

I installed my hall sensor which you can't see, but it is set -up for sensing the flywheel.

Didn't get any pics inside the car, but things are getting tidy there too. With the center console out I took time to shorten and stash wires in better places.

 

It's hard to believe but I think I am ready to go thru the check list to get this puppy started. Waiting on my MS cable so I can plug into my laptop so i can get started on settings

post-1083-0-29655400-1393942328_thumb.jpg

post-1083-0-19309100-1393942350_thumb.jpg

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Not sure how to answer the wiring question. You should always use relays for high amp stuff. The megamanual will advise you what  to use current driver wiring for. MS will control about anything you cam imagine, but can only direct power a few things.

I am not using an electric fan.

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Post your msq. In the meantime here are some guesses:

 

It sounds like you are trying to use inappropraite MAP sample settings. You should set it to "use event average".

 

MS3 can detect engine phase based on MAP signal. I'm not familiar with where the settings are but you should not be using this.

Edited by Sam280Z

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I did set it to Event average and still got the message.

I can't post up my setting yet. I had to use my sons laptop(windows) to connect with the MS, because my netbook(Linux OS) wouldn't. When I get it back(laptop) , I can post something. He's filling out a questionaire for Harvard, don't want to disturb that :)

 

Little more background though. I was able to calibrate all my sensors, but need to check to make sure I have the right MAP sensor listed. I had DIY install the MAP Daddy inside the MS3 box, and not sure I have the right one burned to tuner. The water and air temps were reasonable. No rpm signal, but not sure if I have that setting right. I am using a Hall gear sensor, on a 36-1 tooth wheel(drilled flywheel). The AFR gauge is sitting at 14.7, but the megamanual said until the engine runs, it  could be anything?

 

Anyways, pretty damn exciting to get this far!

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"I guess my cam input was set to MAP sensor, which is incorrect"

 

That's what I was getting at when I said: "MS3 can detect engine phase based on MAP signal. I'm not familiar with where the settings are but you should not be using this."

 

You should set the cranking speed to just under the slowest running speed you expect to see. 600 RPM is probably better. If the engine is running slower than this crank settings engage. 200 RPM is slower than your engine will crank so if you use that your crank settings will never come in to play.

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I meant -200 rpm is what my rpms are showing during cranking-is that how fast the starter actually cranks the engine?

 

Also trying to do the coil output test. Do you crank the engine during test mode and how do you know the test is successful?

 

Can I use an advance timing light to verify timing?

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Okay-during test mode, when I hit start -the coil buzzes, that was at a ONE coil test. During sequence it still just sounded like one coil buzzing but I had spark plugs attached to the coil wires and PUFF-it lit off fuel vapors in one of the cylinders.

 

I want to check timing during cranking, but I'm afraid the engine will fire off with all the fuel thats in the carbs. So leave off all but number 1 coil wire?

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I had my coil harness on backwards, so the rear coil was firing while testing the front coil--oops.

 

So I get past test mode on the coils and I try and test timing during cranking--NO spark. Then I notice that I have lost my rpm reading--WTF

 

1 step forward-2 steps back.

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Okay- did some studying on this no rpm signal. Apparently I have the wrong settings on tuner studio for my ignition trigger setting/ sensor. I am using this

http://www.cherrycorp.com/english/sensors/Speed_Direction/gs1001_1004.htm

Which I considered a Hall effect sensor, but I guess technically speaking its a VR sensor and that's what MS wants.

Not sure how I was getting a rpm signal earlier. I am away from my car so I can't test this, but the megamanual seems to be clear that my sensor is a VR

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That's definitely a hall sensor, it has three wires, VCC, signal, and ground, meaning you need to give vcc 12volts when the key is turned on. A VR sensor will just have two wires, producing AC voltage (just connect the two wires to MS as tach-in and ground).

 

You should still connect it to MS as a VR sensor (tsel->VRIN), the signal it outputs should be readable by MS. I'm using the non-threaded Hamlin hall sensor that DIYautotune sells and that has worked for me. If that doesn't work, then you might need to do a 12v pull up on the signal and the MS1 hardware docs will tell you how.

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This is what I am going by;

 

 

 

 

he gear-tooth sensor is a variant of the hall sensor - the key difference is that it has a magnet built into it and switches when close to steel, no external magnets are required. This makes them very easy to use. These are almost exclusively a three wire sensor. In CAS (crank angle sensor) units a multiplug may be used to combine multiple sensors. The sensor itself acts like a switch to ground when close to steel. The gear-tooth sensor requires a supply voltage which is usually 12V from a fused 12V supply or 5V from the TPSREF output of the Megasquirt. The sensor is then grounded at the Megasquirt and the third wire connects to the tach input.

Typical use of geartooth sensor with steel trigger wheel.
When a steel tooth passes the sensor it grounds the output. (0V)
At other times, the output is inactive. (The pullup in the ECU will make this 5V.)

geartooth1.png

A commonly used sensor is the 1GT101DC from Honeywell. This is rated from -40C to +150C.

1gt101dc.jpg

The Megasquirt board needs to be set for VR input. V3.0 VR+pullup setting - V3.57 VR+pullup setting
(Note, that previous Megasquirt versions may have used the optoisolator input, but for better high frequency response with toothed wheels and to match the input on the MS3X card, it is advised to use the VR circuit.)

The Megasquirt main board has provision to adjust the trigger threshold on the input signal - these is by two small potentiometers inside the case. These are labelled R52 and R56. Using a small screw driver, carefully turn both about 12 turns anti-clockwise. (There is no dead-stop, but you may feel a "click" when the end position is reached, they can't be damaged by turning too far.)) Then rotate R56 a few turns clockwise.

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Well I went with this issue to the MS forums, but not getting much response. I'm not sure what to expect from the forums being a newbie. So do the DIY pundents or owners respond to issues on the forum, or are the responses by users only? I was hoping for more direct support, but maybe I am missing something.

In the end I went with the megamanual instructions without a direct confirmation from anyone really. The issue I am refering to is using the Hall effect sensor and appropiate board changes. It only amounts to jumpering to points and adding a resistor, but I am having someone else do it. I was just hoping that someone on the forum would chime in and say YES, you are correct on your assumption.

After looking inside the MS box(which I never wanted to do-ever), I saw items that were too small for me to be comfortable with altering. Big hands, weak eyes, no resistors dictated that I take it down the road. Now I have to wait for it to be done to move on.  

Edited by madkaw

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