PLATA Posted July 11, 2013 Share Posted July 11, 2013 (edited) I reconnected the steam tube line back to the cooling system due to all the controversy Now I have an erratic issue , when she reaches temp she feels like an old L24 in vapor lock mode. My radiator has an auto fan relay set at 170 , it hits the dual fans at temp for a very short time less than a minute and it cools fast, When she acted like getting no gas I checked the temp with my temp/laser thermometer upper hose read 190. radiator read 160, lower hose read 170. When this happened a few days ago I was in slow traffic and 90 degree weather and yesterday under the same conditions.What I did in order to prevent a stall I ran the fans with my manual switch . So I ask what is happening . Edited July 11, 2013 by PLATA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rags Posted July 11, 2013 Share Posted July 11, 2013 What did you remove to get the steam tube in place? Intake manifold? PCV hoses? Are you sure you purged all of the air out of the cooling system? Your description of what is going on really doesn't give us much to go on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PLATA Posted July 11, 2013 Author Share Posted July 11, 2013 (edited) What did you remove to get the steam tube in place? Intake manifold? PCV hoses? Are you sure you purged all of the air out of the cooling system? Your description of what is going on really doesn't give us much to go on. The steam vent tube had a plug as in many LS1 swaps but I wanted to play it safe due to all the controversy on this delete, all I did was to reconnect it back to the cooling system on the return heater hose to the water pump. Before this reconnect no problems, that new rad has over 4k miles on her. She acts like she is getting no gas when she reaches temperature , wants to stall , feels like an old L24 with vapor lock. She has run fine with no issues , over 8K miles since in my care, what could cause this miss behaving, pointers are welcome Edited July 11, 2013 by PLATA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PLATA Posted July 11, 2013 Author Share Posted July 11, 2013 (edited) ^^^ here http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/111238-steam-vent-tube-on-ls1/ related Edited July 11, 2013 by PLATA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PLATA Posted July 11, 2013 Author Share Posted July 11, 2013 BUMP ............ for prime time,in hopes to solve this issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EastTnZ Posted July 12, 2013 Share Posted July 12, 2013 Have you tried asking around or looking on ls1tech.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted July 12, 2013 Share Posted July 12, 2013 all sensors hooked up? IAT / Temp? Bubbles out of coolant? does it do it with the vent blocked off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PLATA Posted July 12, 2013 Author Share Posted July 12, 2013 (edited) Have you tried asking around or looking on ls1tech.com They indicate an O2 oxygen sensor failure , the brain box will be scan to see what codes are present . all sensors hooked up? IAT / Temp? Bubbles out of coolant? does it do it with the vent blocked off? Prior to the steam vent reconnect no issues, bubbles out of coolant not sure, the coolant temp sensor could also be bad, let the scan detect what is going on. Edited July 12, 2013 by PLATA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvilC Posted July 12, 2013 Share Posted July 12, 2013 Jack the front of the car up and get all the air out of the system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Domzs Posted July 12, 2013 Share Posted July 12, 2013 If everything was fine before , I'd either put it back the way it was or pinch off the steam hose to see if it goes away . I haven't seen steam hose routes to heater hose before . Originally , it goes to either radiator or coolant bottle . I routed mine to upper hose . Scan your ECM for any DTC . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PLATA Posted July 12, 2013 Author Share Posted July 12, 2013 (edited) Jack the front of the car up and get all the air out of the system. That will burp the system , I will do that, good tip If everything was fine before , I'd either put it back the way it was or pinch off the steam hose to see if it goes away . I haven't seen steam hose routes to heater hose before . Originally , it goes to either radiator or coolant bottle . I routed mine to upper hose . Scan your ECM for any DTC . On LS1tech that mod came up as a good alternative. A scan will be done this weekend . Like I mention this " acting like an L24 in vapor lock mode " is erratic, it might not be related to the reconnect ( the pinch the hose to see if goes away trick will be performed), the issue has happen when she is in slow traffic with hot weather, she runs fine otherwise Edited July 12, 2013 by PLATA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Domzs Posted July 12, 2013 Share Posted July 12, 2013 It's pretty damn hot in Texas right now and i don't have any issue with vapor lock . . Just can't drive it , need A/C . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PLATA Posted July 12, 2013 Author Share Posted July 12, 2013 (edited) pretty damn hot in Texas right now and i don't have any issue with vapor lock . . Just can't drive it , need A/C . I have A/C , but she is running like S*&^T in slow traffic on these super hot days in The Land of Mary Edited July 12, 2013 by PLATA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted July 12, 2013 Share Posted July 12, 2013 Holy shits-is that India? Bangladesh? Why even have a car in a hell hole like that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PLATA Posted July 13, 2013 Author Share Posted July 13, 2013 Holy shits-is that India? Bangladesh? Why even have a car in a hell hole like that? It gets like that in the Baltimore/Washington DC corridor , see why I need pointers to remedy my " acting a la L24 vapor lock mode " any tips from you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted July 13, 2013 Share Posted July 13, 2013 I think either: it is a coincidence and a sensor somewhere puked on you or you bumped something when you were working on the stem vent. Like maybe the crank sensor, MAF or maybe something in the crank case vent system. Or maybe something related to that front coil or fuel injector. Try to find somebody who can check your codes via your OBD-2 port. I doubt it has anything to do with the cooling system. BTW-just to be sure,since it isn't working out, go ahead and reroute the steam vent to either the top tank in the radiator or to the top radiator hose. We've all been successful with that arrangement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PLATA Posted July 13, 2013 Author Share Posted July 13, 2013 ^^^ I think your right it must be a coincidence, the scan will reveal the problem, that engine has about 40k miles(20K when the conversion was done, 10K with David and I put the rest), I only use premium gas, when the PO did the conversion he did put new plugs , it is all stock, oil changes using Mobil 1 synthetic, the reroute of the vent tube to the heater return hose to the water pump is a popular alternative functional mod. She does not like slow paces in hot weather, well I hope that it is a minor remedy, uncomplicated and easy on the wallet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PLATA Posted July 13, 2013 Author Share Posted July 13, 2013 (edited) Did the scan , code P0118 = eng coolant sensor was the fix, new sensor in place , drove her 50 miles at a slow pace and fast pace , code gone, she runs fine, radiator fans hits at temperature with no more engine hesitation. There are other codes , P0480 and P0481 both are related radiator fan functions , P0704 related to clutch mal function , P0803 up shift malfunction . The radiator fans are operated by an external autol relay and a manual switch for A/C operation. the tranny and clutch are fine , I ASK, DO I NEED TO BE CONCERN WITH THESE 4 CODES and can they be erased, I want the red CEL off Edited July 13, 2013 by PLATA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rags Posted July 13, 2013 Share Posted July 13, 2013 AC clutch and up shift malfunction errors will return unless the circuits are deleted completely from the ECM. I'm not even sure If you can remove both fan circuits from the ECM so 0480 and 0481 will certainly come back. Joe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PLATA Posted July 13, 2013 Author Share Posted July 13, 2013 AC clutch and up shift malfunction errors will return unless the circuits are deleted completely from the ECM. I'm not even sure If you can remove both fan circuits from the ECM so 0480 and 0481 will certainly come back. Joe Will they create engine malfunctions or driveability issues Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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