Naptown Dave Posted July 23, 2013 Share Posted July 23, 2013 I've been doing some research on getting the wiring harness for my 280 and LS to work correctly, hopefully the first time. I'm not deep enough into it to have any specific questions but I've stared at the diagrams enough to cross my eyes and started stripping the chassis harness of the stuff I know won't be needed. I imagine once I really get started and break the whole system down to manageable pieces it will be a lot less intimidating. I just wanted to know if there are any things you guys are glad you did or wish you would have done the first time around - fuse boxes, relays, routing, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Domzs Posted July 23, 2013 Share Posted July 23, 2013 Standalone harness would be the easiest , which I did on my ZXT ( $500 ) . Had no choice , the guy who removed the drivetrain chopped the PCM harness . On my 78 Z , I went with reworked OE harness since I bought the whole donor car . A little time consuming but I think it's better way to go . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texis30O Posted July 23, 2013 Share Posted July 23, 2013 I am extending my harness to have everything mounted inside the car. For now that is the only thing I can think of. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naptown Dave Posted July 23, 2013 Author Share Posted July 23, 2013 Dom I think you are right about a premade harness but I think I'll leave that for the last resort, I'm too cheap! Tex I'm with you on that, the more you can keep stuff shielded from heat and water the better you'll be. How much are you having to extend to get inside? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted July 23, 2013 Share Posted July 23, 2013 I have a hard time removing the harness with the motor installed-lots easier when it is out and I can walk around it. For that reason, I consider the harness part of the engine, not part of the chassis. All the connections including the computer, are in the engine bay. It takes just disconnecting four electrical connections to have the motor ready to yank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted July 23, 2013 Share Posted July 23, 2013 Hit post by mistake. Continuing: That means about two minutes time and all the wires are disconnected. It is a bit more cluttered than it is for the guys who put the computer inside the cab. But, my harness didn't have to be lengthened. I took my harness and computer to Lane Culvart (sub contractor for Hinson Supercars) in Huntsville to have the un-necessary wires removed from my harness and for the appropriate deletes from the programming. It was cheaper than $500-more like $250-ish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsicard Posted July 23, 2013 Share Posted July 23, 2013 I've been doing some research on getting the wiring harness for my 280 and LS to work correctly, hopefully the first time. I'm not deep enough into it to have any specific questions but I've stared at the diagrams enough to cross my eyes and started stripping the chassis harness of the stuff I know won't be needed. I imagine once I really get started and break the whole system down to manageable pieces it will be a lot less intimidating. I just wanted to know if there are any things you guys are glad you did or wish you would have done the first time around - fuse boxes, relays, routing, etc. The PCM should control a relay that controls feed of voltage to the fuel pump. For safety sake, a crash switch to cut off the electric fuel pump. Relays for headlights. Relay(s) for engine cooling fan. Relay for A/C compressor. Clean and repair turn signal, bright/dim and headlight switches on the stalks. Send LS harness to Rebekahsz Lan Culvert for modification and labeling of applicable wires. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
socorob Posted July 23, 2013 Share Posted July 23, 2013 You could use a weatherpack bulkhead connector in the firewall if you wanted the ecu inside the car and a quick way to unplug it under the hood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin.pk Posted July 23, 2013 Share Posted July 23, 2013 I bought a premade harness from PSI Conversions and wouldn't do it any other way. Mounted the PCM in the stock Datsun location as well. I'm not afraid of wiring or anything. I messed around with the body/chassis harness quite a bit, but wanted a quick, simple, and clean solution for the engine harness. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattd428 Posted July 23, 2013 Share Posted July 23, 2013 Do it yourself its not hard. www.lt1swap.com Tells you everything you need to do for free. Im using a 5.3 harnes plenty of room to put the computer in the cab. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted July 24, 2013 Share Posted July 24, 2013 That would be a BIG weather pack connector. I used a bunch of weather packs on various components but not for the big "spinal cord" that goes to the PCM. Love weather pack. The biggest I did was a six-pin for the DBW pedal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattd428 Posted July 24, 2013 Share Posted July 24, 2013 You guys do know you can take about the plugs right. You dont have to cut them. Just have to make sure you repin them correctly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naptown Dave Posted July 24, 2013 Author Share Posted July 24, 2013 All good stuff up above. $250 for the ECU reflash and wiring mods? Keith I might have to get Lane's contact info from you. The engine harness mods don't really concern me that much, there are plenty of good write ups on LS1tech. I guess the grey area for me right now is how the Z harness interfaces with the LS harness - starter, alternator, gauges etc . I'm sure once I get deeper into it it will start making sense. I plan on new relays, fuses, and wire for the fuel pump, fan, headlights As far as mounting the ECU in the cab is the size of the connectors that have to go through the firewall a problem ei. you would need a big hole to fit them through? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted July 24, 2013 Share Posted July 24, 2013 Just PM me when ready. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
socorob Posted July 24, 2013 Share Posted July 24, 2013 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?p=5544871 Those bulkhead connectors are sort of big but are made so you don't have holes in the firewall heat can come thru around wires. You may have to use more than 1 but they make a very clean install. Look at the 10th picture from the top and you can see how it works. I believe the connector locks together with a screw so it stays tight. It would be a lot of crimps to make though as the big one is 22 pins. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naptown Dave Posted July 24, 2013 Author Share Posted July 24, 2013 I'm working away from home once again so this is just a thought, I can't take a look to see if it will work, but what if I mounted the ECU horizontally inside the cab on the passengers side with the pin connector going through a slot cut in the firewall? That way the ECU is tucked away out of sight but the connectors are accesable without doing a bunch of bulkhead connections. I would want to seal the ECU to the firewall somehow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktm Posted July 24, 2013 Share Posted July 24, 2013 (edited) I used the stock Camaro harness and installed the PCM inside the car at the bottom of the firewall on the passenger side. I did not need to extend the harness either. Attached is a picture shortly after the install. I've since tidied-up the wiring. Edited July 24, 2013 by ktm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsicard Posted July 25, 2013 Share Posted July 25, 2013 I'm working away from home once again so this is just a thought, I can't take a look to see if it will work, but what if I mounted the ECU horizontally inside the cab on the passengers side with the pin connector going through a slot cut in the firewall? That way the ECU is tucked away out of sight but the connectors are accesable without doing a bunch of bulkhead connections. I would want to seal the ECU to the firewall somehow. If your 280Z headlight circuit, on/off and high/low beam, is like my 240Z, then headlight relays need to be added. The LS PCM will control engine cooling fan(s) and output a tach signal. To keep thing simple mount the PCM immediately behind the radiator core support either LH or RH side which ever works out best for the harness. Then address an oil pressure, coolant temp, electrical system voltage, fuel tank level and transmission speed sensor/gauge(s). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PLATA Posted July 25, 2013 Share Posted July 25, 2013 FWIW>>>>>> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted July 25, 2013 Share Posted July 25, 2013 A cool way to keep your relays and other small components neat and tidy is to organize them and mount them on a plate. All your little ugly mounting holes go thru the plate, then the plate is secured somewhere with only 2-4 holes/screws. This keeps you from drilling a million ugly holes in your beloved rust-free (haha) chassis. I wasn't smart and I have a million little holes- it works but is not gonna win me the America's Best HybridZ award. The use of bus bars and fuse blocks helps too to allow you to distribute the three forms of power that you need: ground, constant 12v and 12v that is only on when the key is in the on position. You will just distribute power as needed from these three sources-suddenly it all gets simple. You also need to google how a relay works-complicated when you've never dealt with it, but it is actually really simple. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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