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Identify this camber plate design... please


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Hi guys,

The previous owner of my car claimed to have installed some bolt-on camber plates but did not know the brand. I have been searching all around and can't find ones with similar bolt pattern. He cut out the top of the strut in the profile of the camber plate. The cut quality is really poor and I was going to cut it out in a similar pattern as most people do with the ground control plates. So I have two questions 

 

- What are these? 

 

- What would you do if you were in my shoes? ... It seems that bolt in sets like DP racing and Ground Control offer are much higher quality than the weld in sets by T3 and AZC but I'm sure everyone has their own opinion on that...

 

Thank you for reading!

 

 

post-12001-0-96181300-1375152527_thumb.jpg

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What I like about my DPs is that I know what the give me. I change my rear camber at least once a month. If I push all the way in, I get 2.5 neg camber. Pull them all the way out, I get 1 positive. Neg for autocross, pos for drag. If I had slots, I would have to get out the camber gauge everytime-it would be a real hassle. Now, the fronts-I have them at 3neg and I never change them so I don't have to fool with toe-in alignment.

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My question is if they were bolt in, WTH did the PO weld them in??

 

Now that I have that out of the way, I'd grab a set of weld in plates, use them as a template and see if the mess you have can be cut out and replaced.

 

And I agree with John, clean up the weld on the rollcage attachment point.

 

Joe

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ive seen lots of older race cars where they copied a plate from tilton in the 80s and welded them into the towers--  i think BRE originally got the plates from Tilton but its been so long i am not sure.

 

my current car has GC.. front and rear

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Welding on the cage into the strut tower was done by me, thou this is off topic... I only have a 110 mig welder and obviously as i welded there wasn't enough penetration so most of the weld ended up on the surface. As I grind down the weld I'll be able to see whether I had penetration or not. If not it will need to go to someone with a tig or at least 220 set up. ...yes it looks like crap and most likely wouldn't pass SCCA inspection, thank you.

 

So the story I got from the PO was that he had bolt on plates, and he cut out the strut tower to match the plates, rather than just cutting a clearance hole as most people do with bolt on plates. As you can tell I don't have the proper welder or welding skills to weld in a new slider plate. Is this really my only option?

 

Has any one seen a set of camber plates that would bolt to the bolt pattern around the perimeter of the cut out?

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