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Nicely made brackets- Wilwood spot parking brake caliper.. I made brackets that were one piece about 15 years ago for the rear of a Z for those same calipers only laser cut steel not CNC like everything is now. Wonder why they made the rear so you have to pull the stub axle to bolt it on though. Seems like overkill

These measurements dont seem to work for my car. At least not at the ride height i want it to be at. I have 5 lug and have to take into account the hub changes in track width for BS on wheels- ( i did the 5 lug conversion about 15 years ago - maybe longer- back then there was no billet 5 lug hub to choose from) But the rear has no such issues. My car currently is 18 x 8 G35 wheels- 5.75 BS , all 2005 factory G35 size tires still 225 fronts and 245 rears- the online wheel calculator says a +30mm is 5.68" BS. I was running a .5" spacer to bring the rear wheels out to where i liked the look better- The fronts had a .650 spacer , and i never realized till this measurement round that the reason was the actual hub of the G35 wheels doesnt clear the 350z hub and sit flat , so the spacer is only for that- I have about 1" clearance from wheel to strut tube so plenty of room to go inside. I havent worked on the Z for a while and decided last month I want to go down to 17" wheels and get wider, and try to get the track the same F + R. WIthout the rear spacer the tires clears the coilover sleeve by 3/16" ? So for my car 5.75 BS is perfect - the 17 x 9.5 with 6mm is a 6" BS and would require a spacer? I have been using spacers for 20+ years and have no issues with them, but if I am going to custom order wheels i want to do it without spacers. I would love to put 275s on the back of this but I dont see it fitting my car. I will go back into shop today and try a 1" spacer on the rear to see how it sits out. I dont want the rim past the lip of the body as i want this car as low as it was before. I have my G35 wheels here plus a set of Mustang Bullitts 17 x 8 with 245 45 17s. The bullitts are currently mounted but so many different issues- they dont clear the 350z calipers without a spacer either, but they clear the hub- go figure. With a .5" spacer they look fine on the car. Little taller tire than i want though as they leave VERY little gap to the front valance upon turn in. So i would be trying a Nitto NT01 in 235.40.17 thats about 1" shorter or the Toyo 888r in a 245 40 is about .5" shorter. With the bullitts up front and the caliper off i can mount the wheel and it clears the inner strut tube by a good 1/4" so i can go to a 17 x 8.5 wheel with 5.75 BS with either the 235 or the 245 front tire with clearance- I have to build a new front brake kit now just to gain that .5" of extra rim width.

I did the same, although mine was a 75 280. I took the shocks off and used a new 71 bumper and brackets, drilled i think one hole for each, but i changed the grill out to the early style at the same time - That requires welding the tab from the early car to the inner headlight area, but the later grill doesnt look great (to me) .

Which wilwood front hub fits? early mustang is close with the .25" added width over a stock hub- but thats still less track width than a 240/280 hub. F and A body GM will fit if you turn the inner hub down a bit to narrow the width between bearings. I actually tried a billet gm hub yesterday on a strut and needs about 50 thou to make the outer bearing sit fully on the machined bearing surface, but the offset isnt that great to make it worth doing- I have ( i think) z32 front hubs now and was looking to get a little LESS track width than these have as im trying to put 17 x 8.5 on the car all around and if i get the hub/rotor hat TH. correct then all 4 wheels can have the same BS. I already have the rear fit to what i think is perfect and now working on the fronts. This will have to be custom wheels with 5.75 BS, right now the fronts could use 6" but with the existing Z32TT calipers they have a overhang of 1.5" and thats limiting how much BS i can run to make the wheels fit Hubs tried- to compare Track width changes 240z 280zx z31 penta style bolt on rear rotor face z32 floater front mount rotor GM A/F body billet hub 60s Ford 5 lug hub I have measurements for all the above as far as offset from rotor face to rear of caliper mounting ears- last to try is a Fox body- i have to bring one from work -

the nissan page doesnt even load? Ive been considering a RB25DET swap and replace the ford v8.. On the fence not sure if i should do it or not

Well if anyone had 3099 right now that might be an option Are the bilsteins in the stock configuration ok for 200-225 springs, i have either 200-225 or 225-250 set of hyperco already so should they need revalving for those springs?

need full set of illuminas or konis 8610s.. let me know what you got thanks

ok so i called a few different distributors No one has any tokikos-- at least not the BZ3099 MR2 rears to use up front.. even the Koni 8610 are not in stock anywhere - koni usa is sold out and no stock expected in their warehouse in KY until mid sept.. so looking at end of sept to early october to have inserts.. Anyone know or have a set of illuminas or Konis or know where some are for sale?

I cant find the sticky for the inserts for coilovers-- i know real low is bz3099 and bz3015 for shortening-- its been so long since i did my car i cant remember what struts i put in it. have a customer car it will be on 17" tires stock body work- so should the MR2 insert be used - ?? This will be with GC or ? camber plates and 3 piece wheels and not much lower than it was before with Eibach springs - the camber plates will lower it another 1" i just need to decide what Tokikos to order.. I am pretty sure that i put mr2 rears in my fronts a decade ago but then took it back apart and spaced those up an 1" or so to get the car higher with a 4" coilover sleeve.. but i dont want to take mine apart just to see the insert #s if i dont have to

ive seen lots of older race cars where they copied a plate from tilton in the 80s and welded them into the towers-- i think BRE originally got the plates from Tilton but its been so long i am not sure. my current car has GC.. front and rear

get a whole 89-95 mustang -- you can usually find higher mileage hatchbacks under 1500.. less if auto.. the efi harness on a 5.0 is separate from the car-- there are a few websites that will show you how to modify the wiring to be 3 wire-- power - ground key on power.. .. the stock 5.0 in my vert has more power than both previous L6 motors- one was L28- triple mikunis- cam'd etc.. #2 was a L2800 turbo with HKS intercooler kit and SDS EFI.. i prefer fords but if you could find a cheap low mile 5.3 LS motor thats a good HP for low $.. the 5 speed will cost as much as the whole ford 5.0 driveline though..

Randy thanks but i have 2 sets of the zxt 81-83 cv shafts from 20 years ago.. Just need adapters.. this car will never get more than 350hp or so and therefore these should work fine.

Hey Dan-- long time-- Good to see your cars still going.. I am about to do another 5.0 conversion for someone else who actually bought Alsils old car. your car was the first EFI ford motor and i remember all your help for wiring schematic to get mine going.. Im going to put the MSD atomic into this one and see how that compares to the stock ford efi setup.. Still doing brakes - suspension etc.

I still have 3 or 4 sets left from the "original" run.. One set of used calipers and probably about 30 pairs of the ebrake extensions..

I have the e brake extensions i can measure a pair -- it should be pretty easy to figure out as the steel plate just attaches to the caliper and then the plate attaches to the stock Z cable. And I am the original person who came up with the 240sx conversion not Ross @ MM.

Coleman racing will have the smaller sleeves to fit a 240 strut.. for the 280 ones i always got them from GC

looking for a pair of the ZXT adapter flanges-- already have 2 sets of the axles.. 280 spline..

looking for a pair of custom axles or whatever cv shafts with conversion adapters for a r200 diff.. price shipped to 98264 wa state or in vancouver

i have a set-- in langley-- whats the going price for these now?

should have put in driveline section but i cant delete this now-- i havent been around for a while-- my user ID was revived but i lost all my posts.. oh well .. need to finally change out the half shafts for CV.. i briefly searched and didnt find much except for some 39 spline thread that i have no idea what that is LOL.. 280 diff - already have 280zx turbo flanges and 2 pairs of the shafts here i could use if i buy adapters.. i know someone i dont approve of used to make them so i never bought them from him years ago because of the lack of business ethics he has.. v8z -- whats the easiest way to get CV's into this car now?

if you want to run 240sx calipers i have at least one set of brackets left from the original run--

yea still doing brakes- been mostly working on race cars lately- and i do one off projects now- right now theres a SBC Z in the shop doing brakes and suspension - prev to that i have been working on 65-6 mustangs again and now i have an new racecar 240sx-- although i still have the 200sx too.. Rudy.. the 12.2's HAVE to have a 15" rim- and they wont work on an original 280zx 15" rim (afair) a good aftermarket centerline/panasport will clear it. and you have to compare apples to apples if your comparing the az kit in 12.2 then compare it to the stage 3 outlaw- virtually identical performance- i honestly dont know if EITHER would outperform the other , thats a late model stock car setup for 3500lb 700hp cars - its more than enough for any street car- some of the AZ kits used a cast caliper some dont- so depends on the caliper thats really a personal preference- the dynalite or superlite wilwood - one is billet .. that is virtually no difference than the 3000 outlaw. when you get into this type of brake stuff the only limit is wheel size and $$$ have 18" rims we can build any kit with 14 or 15" rotors but the cost is hugely increased over the 11 or 12's, 13's are about 2x the price of 12's so very few will go for that or the larger rotors

you need to be more specific thats like saying ford vs. chevy. what outlaw caliper? vs. what wilwood one- some wilwoods are cast - all outlaws are billet. if cost is no object buy brembos afaik the stiffest there is- there is a new outlaw 4000xd that is on my race car - a LOT stiffer than the older 4000 but complete overkill on a street car. higher end setups usually require dual master cylinders and a balance bar- this isnt in your average rod or street car. pedals and masters alone will run you $350 As Mikelly said the AZZ is almost an identical kit- you are paying for anyones kit by the fact that its together and will work - you can buy your own calipers and rotors and make your own hats but make sure the piston size you choose works and the pad compound and it clears you ball joint! if you or a friend can make the hats for free .. ie no labor then go for it- otherwise you wont save any money and might even spend more by the time its finished

temporary fix's but all links are up and i loaded a pile of pics that i found sitting at home on the HDD 3 separate pages now 5.0 install G35 rims convt conversion itself http://www.outlawbrakes.com/convertible.html

well there is someone at work who "claimed" they knew html and i had them help update the pages but they seemed to make a lot of dead links and more work. as for the "stock 5.0" headers i cannot see how you can "get it as far back as possible"? my intake touched the stock hood latch(i had to modify it similar to the JTR chevy kit- - the oil pan front bolt is within 1/4" as well from the cross member (on the bottom side) - i did try the original 5.0 headers with my engine in the current location and they would have been pushed directly into the firewall -- so either my stock 5.0 headers from a 91 are different or your engine is on top of the cross member and 2" ahead compared to mine.. FYI -- my engine layout is exactly the same as Dans' 74.. 5.0Z .. as i copied his layout from pictures he emailed me