seattlejester Posted April 20, 2014 Share Posted April 20, 2014 That's a real bummer, but at least that's better then the stub axles snapping, then you would be without a wheel. Were you doing lots of launches? Wolf creek or ermish racing (I think that's the spelling) have porsche conversion axles. Lot's of bolts involved though. If you were on a budget the 280zx or 300zx axle swap could be done for less. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rome03 Posted April 20, 2014 Author Share Posted April 20, 2014 Hey Seattle, Not at all. I probably did 4 launches in the 2 months of getting u joints and not a single launch from the moment I got it tuned. Just a couple first and second gear pulls from a roll. I dont want to do a crazy costly conversion. I don't even mind keeping the 280z half shafts. I just need to find really strong u joints or something. I did some reading and this has happened to multiple people. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seattlejester Posted April 21, 2014 Share Posted April 21, 2014 Yea, it seems to be the weakest point which is a good thing. I think brute force non-grease-able are the strongest you can get before looking for a cv conversion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rome03 Posted April 22, 2014 Author Share Posted April 22, 2014 That's what I'm thinking. I'll talk to the shop that did the swap. I'll see if they offer non-grease-able ones. I know someone that is giving me what he called side mount supra injectors, don't know if they are high or low impedance, from a 1jz. I believe it's an early 90's engine. They are o-ring style injectors, any idea if I can run these? Or any advice on the easiest injector swap. I know there are a couple thread that discuss injectors but i havnt found one that states how you change them out. I I don't know if people usually get an aftermarket fuel rail that is set up for o ring style injectors or a fuel rail that connects to the injectors with hoses like the Stock one does. Any advice? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seattlejester Posted April 23, 2014 Share Posted April 23, 2014 Palnet fuel rail and 440cc supra injectors (7mgte mk3) seem to be the go to route around here for minimal modification. As long as you could find a fuel rail with the correct spacing and a machine shop to open up or weld in new injector bosses the world's your oyster as they say. I don't think the injectors you pictured would work as I believe they get their fuel in the horizontal fashion, so you would be limited to the fuel rail that it came on. If it matched the intake pattern you might be in luck, but I wouldn't be hopeful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rome03 Posted April 25, 2014 Author Share Posted April 25, 2014 Got it. Thanks. I'll do some more reading on the injectors. I'm glad I got the ms installed. Time to clean up the engine bay a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rome03 Posted May 19, 2014 Author Share Posted May 19, 2014 Hey Guys, I found a non webbed non egr intake manifold.....I wish I had looked at the block and head to see what it was on. I believe it was a 76 280z. I'm considering getting it because I like how it looks, so my question is....are all of those style of intake manifolds the same? Or were there some non webbed non egr intake manifolds that were better than others based on the year and the style of ports it has? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rome03 Posted May 20, 2014 Author Share Posted May 20, 2014 (edited) Seattle, This would be a good question for you since I just finished reading a very good and intense discussion on brake upgrade options and the bias that the setups would have. You seem to really know your brake setups. I was really considering doing the Toyota upgrade but after a lot of reading, I think I'm going to stick with the stock set up for now. I know that the toyota replacement is pretty cheap compared to other performance setups and would be nice to have but I think its a bit out of my price range. I learned that it would be best to have the larger MC and a proportioning valve to adjust for the fluid pressure, something I wasnt counting on and added cost. Wilwood sells the MC for 200, Calipers are 170 for the pair since I don't have a replacement for the core, plus the 100 for rotors (if I went with the vented option), some number for the spacer, maybe 60 for pads, 70 for the proportioning valve. Roughly 600$, and as i learned, the proportioning valve does not really help to keep a good balance when you keep drums in the rear. If I did the Toyota 4 runner and 280zx rears then I would have a better balance based on the (rough, because other factors come into play as was mentioned) numbers you posted. I realized that if I want it done right I would rather do the swap when I have the funds to upgrade the fronts and the rears and maintain a better balance. I do plan on trying some auto-x but that would be sometime in the future and not very often. So I'm kind of convinced on doing some maintenance on my stock setup since I mostly use my car as a daily. I definitely need to change my crapy duralast pads and get the rotors turned, or possibly just upgrade the rotors to some drilled and slotted ones (they look nice). I've been trying to find some after market rotors for my 78 280z but have only found the ones on motorsport. I have also looked for hawk and porterfields pads but they don't come up on regular auto parts store like auto zone/pep boys etc. Do they have to be purchased straight from them? http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/classic21c Most of the members with a lot of experience have mentioned that the stock system with good pads and rotors have good stopping power for daily driving and maybe some light track times. I think this might be the best route for me at this time and would be really cheap. Any thoughts? Thanks Edited May 20, 2014 by rome03 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seattlejester Posted May 20, 2014 Share Posted May 20, 2014 I always have thoughts I'm not particularly knowledgeable per say, I have installed the standard upgrade though, and I did plug numbers in a spread sheet to generate the brake bias with help from people on the forum though. Honestly I think you are in the right mindset, you have upgraded the power so looking for better performing brakes is not a bad idea, but the combination of a variety of parts introduces some additional problems, so bringing up the stock setup is not a bad solution to maintaining stock balance while increasing performance. I doubt you will be overusing the stock units any times soon. That isn't a challenge, just an observation. Unless you live on a large switch back and like to push it hard in corner entry etc, you probably won't encounter too many problems with a refreshed stock setup. So I see no problem with holding onto the stock setup for now. Replacing any cracked or dry rotted lines, replacing any kinked or rusting hard lines, putting in higher temp fluid, new pads, rotors, and a complete bleed should bring the system up to spec and by complete I mean using like a whole bottle. Doing the following will be great for when you can afford to do an upgrade as all the lines will be fresh. Honestly the slots and holes in the rotor won't gain you a lot of benefit, if anything it will eat through your pads a bit faster. I've auto crossed and locked up my wheels with good tires way before the pads started loosing bite. I've lost pedal feel going down a switch back, but that wasn't a glazing pad, that was boiling the brake fluid. That was also the consensus of some regulars who visit the track regularly, that drilled and slotted was overkill unless you really needed that extra bit of bite, most of them were running blank brembo's. Their thoughts was that the money was better spent on saving up for the next set of rotors or on a thurough bleed with high quality fluid. If it is for looks, nothing wrong with that at all. Regarding a core charge, you can always pop into a junkyard to get the cores. I think it was 10$ or so for each caliper and I returned them for 60$ in core credit or something of that nature. Took maybe 5 minutes since the wheels were gone, two bolts for the caliper and a wrench to get the hardline off and voila, instant core. I would definitely check the box for when the time comes, I have had the 4runner brakes delivered when I ordered 4x4 brakes and I've heard vice versa. Unless MSA has their rotors custom milled from blanks, the source should be out there. They are more of a vendor then a producer, so either someone is making it and MSA is repackaging and selling. Or someone is modifying blanks and they are repackaging and selling. Either way you should be able to find the source. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rome03 Posted May 20, 2014 Author Share Posted May 20, 2014 Thanks a lot for your input. I agree....I just needed some reassurance that what I'm doing is ok for my driving needs. I will probably see the track but not on a regular basis or drive my car hard everyday. I'm going to do a complete bleed, fix some lines, get some good performance pads, and do something with my rotors. I'm just not sure if I should have them resurfaced or buy new rotors. Part of me wants to get replacement rotors for the stock caliper because I can then use the 4x4 caliper with the solid stock rotor or drilled and slotted rotor. I think that if the rotors look good I'll have the resurfaced and call it a day. Thanks for the input. I'm sure I'll be able to do a legit refresh of the brakes and not break the bank haha. I'll have to read up on brake pads though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D9inger Posted October 10, 2017 Share Posted October 10, 2017 Good thread, I'm going down this same path right now. Do you have an update? Pictures? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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