sotaorava Posted August 24, 2013 Share Posted August 24, 2013 i get my hands on schneider stage 1 camshaft intake .460 lift duration 260 .310 camlift dur at .050 camlift 220 exhaust .460 lift duration 260 .310 camlift dur at .050 camlift 220 planning on putting this to my stroker with 10.8 comp mild head cleaning not looking for max power just good allrounder is this cam ok? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leon Posted August 24, 2013 Share Posted August 24, 2013 Way too small for a stroker, IMO. Hope you have access to high-octane fuel... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lazeum Posted August 24, 2013 Share Posted August 24, 2013 (edited) I was writting the same comment - stay with stock cam or go big. With a stroker, I would not think twice & go with big cam. How big is the question you need to answer. It will depend on your goals, your intake system, head style, head work, exhaust system, etc. The best move you could do is get a proper list of stuffs made to your engine & ask a pro for proper cam. DJR in UK, Rebello & Isky in the US could help you out. Edited August 24, 2013 by Lazeum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zguitar71 Posted August 25, 2013 Share Posted August 25, 2013 I have the Rebello hot "b" cam in my L28. If you are looking to have a streetable motor then get this cam. It has plenty of low end torque for the road. The cam has 279 duration and 540 lift for both intake and exhaust. The lobes are asymmetrical and ramp up pretty quick but I do not know the specs on that. Don't be scared of a bigger cam, I think I could have a streetable motor with even cam than I have. I also have 10:75 compression and Leon is correct about the octane. It is not too bad if the temp is 75 or lower but above that I need about 94-95 in order to lay into the throttle below 3500 rpm or so. The compression makes the motor less streetable than the cam in my car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xnke Posted August 25, 2013 Share Posted August 25, 2013 That cam is better than a stock cam, if it's what you have...but if you are *buying* a camshaft, then go bigger. For a high compression stroker, the bottom end of my cam choices would be 280* advertised duration, and 0.460" lift. Keep in mind, any bigger cam than this will require valve springs, valve stem seals, and spring retainers, not to mention lash pads. For a street car, pushing the duration past 292* advertised tends to make driving in traffic a little rough. You start loosing vaccuum to run the power brakes very shortly after 280* duration, so keep that in mind, too. 292* at 0.540" lift is a nice, mostly streetable cam that can produce good power, but you will need springs, valve seals, spring retainers, and lash pads to match the cam. Also, it really would be of much more utility if the cam and the cylinder head port flow were matched up, if your intake port falls off at 0.450" of lift, then going bigger than a 0.480" lift cam isn't doing much... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sotaorava Posted August 25, 2013 Author Share Posted August 25, 2013 yeah my thoughts exatly that cam come with my head i think i keep that one and put the motor in and when i have more money i send my other head for total rebuilt with custom cam... hope to get 200hp from motor with this setup lets see Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted August 28, 2013 Share Posted August 28, 2013 I built a 9:1 L28 for a club member with that cam. He is very happy with it. If I remember correctly the power band is from 2K to 6k RPM. Perfect for a street motor without forged pistons. The other good thing with this cam is that the stock springs and valves can be used. You only need new lash pads. To run .540 lift it is required to run performance springs. You also need to cut the spring perches or run custom longer valves, otherwise the springs will bind (bottom out). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted August 28, 2013 Share Posted August 28, 2013 You can run aftermarket springs and retainers with .540 lift and not have coil bind. I seem to recall the Schneider springs and retainers that I installed were good to over .600 lift. You will need shorter valve stem seals though, because the retainer will hit the stock valve stem seal at somewhere around .500. There is a Ford V6 viton seal which fits, has a much lower profile, and is available at just about every auto parts store in the USA. It's the easiest solution on this side of the Atlantic anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xnke Posted August 29, 2013 Share Posted August 29, 2013 And since it's the valve seal for a German Ford 2.9L V6, it's readily available in europe too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sotaorava Posted August 29, 2013 Author Share Posted August 29, 2013 thanks for the info Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted August 29, 2013 Share Posted August 29, 2013 I had coil bind on an E31 with L28 (N47) valves and a .530 Isky cam. It wasn't a regrind, it was ground from a fresh core. Maybe that is why I had a problem with binding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted August 29, 2013 Share Posted August 29, 2013 Valve lift is valve lift. Stock springs will bind at that lift, but the aftermarket ones can handle it, at least the Schneiders can IME. FWIW, I was also using E31 with 280 valves. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted August 30, 2013 Share Posted August 30, 2013 Maybe it is the springs I have on this head. They are stiffer than stock/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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