socorob Posted November 21, 2013 Author Share Posted November 21, 2013 I'm getting ready to start plumbing my fuel system. I'm planning to start at the back and work my way forward. I have a Ford inertia switch for the fuel pump left over from another project. Has anyone else use one of these on the Z? If so where did y'all end up mounting them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
socorob Posted December 9, 2013 Author Share Posted December 9, 2013 ....And it's in! I must have looked at it for 20 min. Has anyone had any issues with the oil sending unit adapter? I can't screw my sending unit all the way down because it hits the block about halfway down. Should I just get a small threaded extension for it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EastTnZ Posted December 9, 2013 Share Posted December 9, 2013 (edited) First of all congrats I did the same thing just staring at mine lol! Where's the sending unit going? Mine is behind the intake on top of the motor and I used an autometer fitting, then a 45 npt fitting and it works flawlessly. Or is yours located above the oil filter? Found the adapter: Autometer 2268 - 16m x 1.5 to 1/8" OPSU Plug Edited December 9, 2013 by EastTnZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
socorob Posted December 9, 2013 Author Share Posted December 9, 2013 Yes it's above the oil filter using johns cars little adapter. It's like 1/4" off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thisguy Posted December 9, 2013 Share Posted December 9, 2013 That motor looks brand new Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
socorob Posted December 9, 2013 Author Share Posted December 9, 2013 Yeah I lucked out. It only had 43,000 on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
socorob Posted December 14, 2013 Author Share Posted December 14, 2013 I received my driveshaft from JCI yesterday so realized I couldn't put off dealing with the e brake hook up any longer. I have a combo of Z32 and Q45 brakes in the rear. The easiest thing I decided was to bolt a piece of angle to the brake cable mountings and bolt the Q45 cables to that. Then I had to make some sort of bracket using pieces from the Z and Q45 welded to a piece of flat bar. I probably could have made something a little prettier but it was a rainy day and I only had a few hours that I was able to squeeze in so I decided to do it with what I just had laying around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted December 14, 2013 Share Posted December 14, 2013 That looks great!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted December 14, 2013 Share Posted December 14, 2013 If you plan to race that thing, think about up grading the slip yoke on the driveshaft-I've twisted two off. You're a good enough welder to make a driveshaft safety loop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
socorob Posted December 14, 2013 Author Share Posted December 14, 2013 Is there a picture of your safety loop somewhere on here? I would love to see how its done on the Z. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted December 15, 2013 Share Posted December 15, 2013 SunnyZ posted some pics somewhere. His loop bolts to the tranny crossmember. Mine is shaped like a D and is welded to the passenger side of the tunnel and would be really hard to photo without a lift to get the car up really high (can't do it right now). The 240z tunnel is really narrow any the 280z has a lot more room. You will probably need to put something of your own design together because there isn't really a standard way to do it. Luckily my driveshaft broke while at the starting line so it stopped spinning pretty much immediately. The loop made it easy for me to be towed off the startingbline and winched up on my trailer. I think it would have still done some damage had it broken at speed. I guess what I'm saying is that my design is not something that I'm totally proud of. For NHRA it needs to be 2" wide and 1/4" thick and should be located within 6" of the front u-joint. It would be cool to have a safety loop for the rear end of the driveshaft too but it isn't required. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
socorob Posted December 18, 2013 Author Share Posted December 18, 2013 Yeah I think they are more concerned about you catapulting yourself. I saw truck break the front u joint at a sand drag when I was a kid and it almost went back over front when the driveshaft speared into the ground. I had the same problem with the water temp sender I saw a few other people had in some old posts where the sending unit wouldn't fit into the JCI adapter. I just centered it up in a drill press and used a 9/16 bit to drill it down. I stopped about 1/8 from going all the way through to leave a lip for the wider part of the sending unit to contact/ seal against. I put a little WOG on the threads just to be sure it doesn't leak Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
socorob Posted December 29, 2013 Author Share Posted December 29, 2013 Got me a big wiring diagram and started on wiring and combining harnesses. I'm really thinking about going with vintage air and ditching the datsun stuff. Found out JTR headers hit JCI oil temp sender placement so I put the stock plate back on and removed the LS1 oil pressure sensor from behind the intake, drilled it out with 21/64 bit and tapped it with a 1/8 NPT pipe thread. Used a 45 degree adapter from the GM plug to Datsun sending unit. Anyone using this combo should definitely do this BEFORE the engine is in the car. It was almost impossible to tighten the 45 fitting so its pointed where it needs to be with the engine in the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Domzs Posted December 29, 2013 Share Posted December 29, 2013 (edited) I posted a thread on how to mod OE temp ( if you are using fact. gauge ) and install it in the right cylinder head . You can get an oil press. sender adapter from Autometer or Speedway . Edited December 29, 2013 by Domzs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EastTnZ Posted December 29, 2013 Share Posted December 29, 2013 (edited) I agree with the oil pressure sender placement but you don't have to drill it out. Another option is to buy the adapter from autometer (2268) and then get a 45 and my aftermarket oil pressure gauge threaded in perfectly. I noticed my factory opsu was broken after I installed the motor and thought I was in trouble. No drilling or tapping! Edited December 29, 2013 by EastTnZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
socorob Posted December 29, 2013 Author Share Posted December 29, 2013 I meant to type oil pressure sender. Sorry about that. I drilled out the gm pressure sender. I'm having a problem with the alternator bracket idler relocation adapter. It's too small for the idler pulley and napa says its an odd size and they can't get a bearing that size. I guess it was machined wrong from JCI. I will have to wait until they reopen after the holidays to see if I can get a proper sized replacement. Also not very impressed with the Chinese AC compressor. I really hope a sanden will bolt in the same place with the same fittings if this one fails. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
socorob Posted January 12, 2014 Author Share Posted January 12, 2014 Today I was able to make some decent progress after not touching the car all week. I put the 300zx hubs with longer studs on with Toyota calipers, hawk pads and slotted rotors. To use these hubs you need the spacer for the rotor. I used 86 hubs and slotted rotors. I used 300zx outer bearings, 280z inner bearings and 300zx wheel seals. I also drilled all the spot welds out of the slam panel on the hatch and removed it and did a small rust patch under it. Tomorrow I'll try to put the new one in. I think I will try to use body panel glue on it since its not structural and I think that will help keep water from being able to get under it again. Next I'm thinking about cleaning up the inside and using the rest of the lizard skin on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted January 12, 2014 Share Posted January 12, 2014 Wow, looks awesome! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
socorob Posted January 12, 2014 Author Share Posted January 12, 2014 Everytime I use my iPhone to put a picture on here it turns it around. It's straight up in the upload preview. Anyone know how to stop that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
socorob Posted January 13, 2014 Author Share Posted January 13, 2014 (edited) Tried out the body panel adhesive today. I haven't used this stuff before but it seems like an easy thing to do for non structural stuff. I used it to glue on my replacement slam panel. It's easy to go crazy with it. I ended up cutting circles out of metal a little larger than all the holes in the floor pan and gluing them over. Seems an easy way to get rid of all the holes. Edited January 13, 2014 by socorob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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