egzlilgituarboy9 Posted December 15, 2013 Share Posted December 15, 2013 (edited) So after going through 3 clutches in 4 miles after full rebuild of literally everything on the car first one cracked, bought a new one pivot ring was out didn't work had centerforce build a new one and same thing happened again pivot ring was out, finally went through jegs and got a good one (never will I ever buy another centerforce clutch). So finally after getting everything back together (have to pull the motor to pull trans) went for a shakedown run made it about a mile, went to Rev match down shift to second at about 30 just to go through the gears with the trans being fresh. Then came the issues, after the Rev match clutch would not fully disengage managed to get home without using the clutch and just shifting at right rpms I have a 3/4 wilwood master and brand new stock slave cylinder. I have .975 inches of travel with the slave and from what I can see if pulls open on the throw outbearing and looks like the clutch should disengage. When started with the brakes applied the clutch grabs does disengage but still enough grab to kill the motor when pedal if fully depressed. Didn't hear any pops bangs or vibrations when this happened witch is really weird. And help would be appreciated thanks a lot in advance! Edited December 15, 2013 by egzlilgituarboy9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miles Posted December 15, 2013 Share Posted December 15, 2013 You have written a lot of words, but have not provided any of the right information for anyone to diagnose the problem. What transmission and slave cylinder are you using? Also, please proof read what you write before you post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
egzlilgituarboy9 Posted December 15, 2013 Author Share Posted December 15, 2013 Sorry typed it up on my phone really quick. Transmission is a lt1 t56 with centerforce dfx clutch and conversion fidanza aluminum flywheel. Already posted the slave its a stock replacement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted December 15, 2013 Share Posted December 15, 2013 (edited) Stock bellhousing or aftermarket? I'm not a clutch expert. But, when I had trouble, I actually cut a 2.5"x3" hole in my stock aluminum bell housing so I could look inside and view the action of my clutch. It was very scary, but i had my daughter work thru the gears using the clutch with me under the car with the car running. I could verify engagement and disengagement. My new clutch supplier was super clear about babying the car for 500 miles at low rpm and being super gentle with the clutch in that break in period, although I don't know how a race team deals with that. That clutch has to FULLY disengage or it will be in a state of constant slippage and will warp the flywheel. Try loosening the bump stops at the top and bottom of the pedal travel to make sure you are fully utilizing the volume of your master cylinder. Edited December 15, 2013 by RebekahsZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
egzlilgituarboy9 Posted December 15, 2013 Author Share Posted December 15, 2013 Bellhousing is stock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gvincent Posted December 17, 2013 Share Posted December 17, 2013 For what it is worth I have a 7/8" Tilton master on my LT1, stock 95 Firebird clutch and pressure plate and clutch kit made by Fort Worth, had the stock flywheel re-surfaced and run a Metal T5 slave cylinder from Tremec for a 93 F body from AutoZone, been running fine for 5 years now... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastzcars Posted December 18, 2013 Share Posted December 18, 2013 It's bee a while since i been on the sight , but I have a couple of questions? when you say you have a stock slave cylinder, what year and car is it out of? What is the clearance between your throwout bearing and the clutch fingers? If your clearance is too tight the clutch and flywheel assembly will heat up and expand, taking up that clearance. If my memory serves me right there should be about 0.100 to 0.300 clearance. But don't take my word for it, refer to the clutch manufactures specs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
egzlilgituarboy9 Posted December 20, 2013 Author Share Posted December 20, 2013 Clearance is good and trans is from a 1994 trans am Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
egzlilgituarboy9 Posted December 20, 2013 Author Share Posted December 20, 2013 It's bee a while since i been on the sight , but I have a couple of questions? when you say you have a stock slave cylinder, what year and car is it out of? What is the clearance between your throwout bearing and the clutch fingers? If your clearance is too tight the clutch and flywheel assembly will heat up and expand, taking up that clearance. If my memory serves me right there should be about 0.100 to 0.300 clearance. But don't take my word for it, refer to the clutch manufactures specs. ^^ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted December 20, 2013 Share Posted December 20, 2013 And help would be appreciated thanks a lot in advance! What kind of help are you looking for? You put everything together and the parts worked correctly, as implied by the fact that you started the engine, shifted in to gear and drove. Then something changed and now you have a problem. So you could assume that you had a part failure or something came loose. Or that you're beating yourself up with the wrong set of parts, that are breaking because they're not designed to work togther. Since it's broken three times before this seems highly possible. And what do you mean by "pivot ring was out"? And how do you know? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
egzlilgituarboy9 Posted December 20, 2013 Author Share Posted December 20, 2013 What kind of help are you looking for? You put everything together and the parts worked correctly, as implied by the fact that you started the engine, shifted in to gear and drove. Then something changed and now you have a problem. So you could assume that you had a part failure or something came loose. Or that you're beating yourself up with the wrong set of parts, that are breaking because they're not designed to work togther. Since it's broken three times before this seems highly possible. And what do you mean by "pivot ring was out"? And how do you know? Well the three times I had problems with the clutch they were not in the car they shipped a defective part to me. Just trying to figure out what is actually wrong with this because if I pull my motor again this clutch is not going back in I will be buying a McLeod twin disc. Should Have worded it better. First clutch cracked from being defective. And the pivot ring is the part where the actual "spring" pivots to open the pressure plate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
egzlilgituarboy9 Posted December 20, 2013 Author Share Posted December 20, 2013 What kind of help are you looking for? You put everything together and the parts worked correctly, as implied by the fact that you started the engine, shifted in to gear and drove. Then something changed and now you have a problem. So you could assume that you had a part failure or something came loose. Or that you're beating yourself up with the wrong set of parts, that are breaking because they're not designed to work togther. Since it's broken three times before this seems highly possible. And what do you mean by "pivot ring was out"? And how do you know? I know the pivot ring was out because the pressure plate did not bolt to the flywheel correctly. And you could physically see the ring was not seated into the proper place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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