Guest MistressMotorsports Posted September 24, 2002 Share Posted September 24, 2002 I'm starting to build an L28 for my track motor. I don't know much about the stock connecting rods. Can they live in a 7000+ rpm motor making somewhere around 250-270 hp? Is it better to get something custom or from another application. I have no specific rules I need to follow, just a budget and a desire to not break the motor. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SleeperZ Posted September 24, 2002 Share Posted September 24, 2002 Properly prepped (balanced, shot peened, ARP bolts), the stock rods will have no problems, especially with the HP. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lockjaw Posted September 24, 2002 Share Posted September 24, 2002 Properly prepped the stock rods were used in engines developing 650 hp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240Z Turbo Posted September 24, 2002 Share Posted September 24, 2002 I am putting 450-475@wheels with raceprepped L24 rods. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAW Posted September 24, 2002 Share Posted September 24, 2002 Use only the 9mm bolt Nissan rods; not the 8mm. DAW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yo2001 Posted September 24, 2002 Share Posted September 24, 2002 the rods bolts are the the weakest link to Nissan I've heard. I'll say use ARP bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted September 24, 2002 Share Posted September 24, 2002 Mike, I'm going through hell with my e-mail, so your reply is here (sorry HybridZ folks)... Congratulations on placing second a Cal Speedway. I was there for a few hours Saturday BSing with Doug, Wayne, the Schley's, Pmum, and Erik. The Schley Viper was being tested for a bunch of aero changes and I stopped by for a bit to see how it worked. My wife was driving at an autox practice in the west lot of Cal Speedway and I was in town for 42 hours. When you get your shocks fixed you should be able to hang with the M3s except on the longer straights. Regarding the Quaife diff: order it from Craig Tayor at Taylor Race Engineering in Texas (800) 922-GEAR (http://www.taylor-race.com) and have it installed by Jerry at Unitrax (http://www.gearedbyunitrax.com) in Anahiem. The diff should be $895 and Unitrax will install it, replace the bearings and seals in the R180, and check everything out for about $380. If you've got a 3.90 R180, use that, otherwise intall it in a 4.11 and be careful with top rpm in 5th at Willow. Regarding the engine - what's said above is correct. The L6 bottom end is hell for strong as long as you keep the rpms under 7.5K for stock rods. Also, the F54 block is not needed until you get horserpower levels over 400, and even then a few guys run 450+ horsepower with the N42 block. Spend your money on engine preparation as opposed to "trick" parts. Johnson Machine in Monrovia knows L6s and is a good machine and build shop. Dan Baldwin on this board (and many other lists) is making plenty of power with an engine similar to what you are building (Dan's is a 3.1L stroker - not worth busting your budget right now). He regularly smokes (and occaisionally gets smoked by) Porsches and M3s on the east coast. The only ways to ruin a L6 engine are to: 1. Overheat it. 2. Run it lean or detonate it a lot. 3. Over rev it (keep under 7.5K with stock rods). 4. Run it out of oil (Accusump, Comp pan, etc.) I suggest you run a 50/50 fuel mix of 91 octane and VP C12 to eliminate detonation and allow as much timing as the engine likes. Sorry for the post here instead of a regular e-mail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruben Posted September 25, 2002 Share Posted September 25, 2002 John, Just a suggestion to Mike. I noticed that Mike lives in Trabuco Canyon and could just pick up a Quaife at Quaife America in San Juan Capistrano (http://www.quaifeamerica.com). The price is the same and would not have to pay for shipping. Here is the address. Quaife America 32240-E Paseo Adelanto San Juan Capistrano, CA 92675 Main: (949) 240-4000 Fax: (949) 240-0450 E-Mail: info@quaifeamerica.com Of course Mike would not have to pay tax if ordering from Texas so maybe it would just even out. Oh well just a thought. Ruben '72 240Z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted September 25, 2002 Share Posted September 25, 2002 You'll get much better technical support and service with Taylor. I've not had good luck with Quaife USA. I did buy my first Quaife diff from them but they couldn't answer my questions when I tried to order a Quaife sequential 5 speed. Craig Taylor is a wealth of knowledge and his team is very helpful. I don't know if the California sales tax vs. shipping from Texas are a wash. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruben Posted September 25, 2002 Share Posted September 25, 2002 I have not had to use their technical or customer support at Quaife America. So that's good to know, I'll make sure I call Taylor if I need any assistance. Thanks John. Ruben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest MistressMotorsports Posted September 25, 2002 Share Posted September 25, 2002 Thanks to all for the replies. John, too bad I didn't know you were around, I would have loved to meet you in person, also Erik. I was pretty busy Saturday with instructing the school group, babying my new disc brakes, re-lashing my brand new valves (obviously to no avail) and helping some friends with their cars. Don't know if you noticed my electric blue 240 screaming down the front straight at about 7400 rpm in the race group. For the Quaife, I wonder if I could order the diff from Texas, let them make some money, then arrange a will call in Calif? Maybe save shipping and tax. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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