Avernier Posted March 3, 2014 Author Share Posted March 3, 2014 No exhaust in cabin EVER. And i have the shittiest seals in existence. Slightly noisy, but not so bad when theres carpet in the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seattlejester Posted March 3, 2014 Share Posted March 3, 2014 Hmm I may have to consider a side exhaust. Maybe not as close as yours but maybe out of the rear quarter. Super jelly over here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grayson260z Posted March 4, 2014 Share Posted March 4, 2014 http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk242/97dimedrop/DFE92F1A-0BEC-4F7E-8108-E95497E62B22-6302-00000532CCBB6917_zps47fc8415.mp4 Quickie Well that was all it took. Say do you have any pictures laying around of the external view of the side pipe? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Avernier Posted March 4, 2014 Author Share Posted March 4, 2014 I'll try and get some for you. Broke another mustache bar about 10 minutes after that. S13 rear subframe this week hopefully. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grayson260z Posted March 4, 2014 Share Posted March 4, 2014 Haha alright thanks man. I guess where ever you live is similar to me where they couldn't care less about exhaust. I wanna have an open down pipe for a little while. Just to rattle a few brains Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Avernier Posted March 4, 2014 Author Share Posted March 4, 2014 Its honestly not that loud. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seattlejester Posted March 4, 2014 Share Posted March 4, 2014 What is your current rear driveline setup? Stock cross member? R180? Poly bushings? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Avernier Posted March 5, 2014 Author Share Posted March 5, 2014 Solid mounted mustache bar, reinforced front diff mount, longnose r200, welded Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KTMStrawn Posted March 5, 2014 Share Posted March 5, 2014 Wow. Why so many broken drivetrain parts? Isn't the r200 supposed to be pretty beefy? You have wheel hop issues? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Avernier Posted March 6, 2014 Author Share Posted March 6, 2014 Im lowered around 6 inches in the back if i had to guess, not 100% sure exactly how much lower than stock it is. Thats a huge contributing factor to the axles. I also drift this car pretty regularly, so clutch kicking is taking out the mustache bars. I guess its not made to deal with that sort of shock load. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KTMStrawn Posted March 6, 2014 Share Posted March 6, 2014 Oh gotcha, are there any axles that can handle being lowered that much? Or is that why you are going to swap to the s13 rear end? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seattlejester Posted March 6, 2014 Share Posted March 6, 2014 Hmm that's not good, that sounds similar to my setup. Are you using the RT style front diff mount? Or just a reinforced front diff mount using the stock rubber with the limiter strap? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben280 Posted March 6, 2014 Share Posted March 6, 2014 I wonder if a new billet style mustache bar would do the trick? I just bolted up a T3 bar and its WAY beefier than the old stocker. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Avernier Posted March 7, 2014 Author Share Posted March 7, 2014 I mean, there are lots of work arounds for the stock setup. Billet mustache bar ??$ Rt front diff mount 50$ Wolf creek axles 900$ 280zx/maxima disks 200$ But i still have the non adjustable rlca's and i still have the pita spindle pin and stub axle. I canweld, have access to a tubing bender and possess adequate knowledge and intellegence to successfully swap the s13/14 rear subframe in where i'll gain: Rear disk brakes, easily upgradeable to z32 Short nose r200 Cv axles Fully adjustable multi link Geometry correction due to mounting And parts availability unrivaled by most production cars. All for ~200$ all in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seattlejester Posted March 7, 2014 Share Posted March 7, 2014 Trouble is comfort I imagine. Unless you have room to flip your car over, fitting the rear subframe is going to be really tiring doing it from underneath. A guy I know just cut out the whole rear subframe and floor in the rear section and box framed it so he can pull up to install his non original subframe rather then push up on a subframe, every other thread I have seen is usually done with the car rotated 180 for the repeated fitment. Just to play devil's advocate, I think you can get an LSD with cv axles in the rear with disc brakes and adjustable suspension (camber and toe) without the spindle pin for ~550 in full hardcore JY diving DIY spec to keep it comparable to the 240sx subframe swap, but the weak point would indeed be the stub axles and lack of aftermarket. Granted given some hp figures some people are putting out, I wonder if worrying about the stub axle is overkill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Avernier Posted March 7, 2014 Author Share Posted March 7, 2014 I mean, there are lots of work arounds for the stock setup. Billet mustache bar ??$ Rt front diff mount 50$ Wolf creek axles 900$ 280zx/maxima disks 200$ But i still have the non adjustable rlca's and i still have the pita spindle pin and stub axle. I canweld, have access to a tubing bender and possess adequate knowledge and intellegence to successfully swap the s13/14 rear subframe in where i'll gain: Rear disk brakes, easily upgradeable to z32 Short nose r200 Cv axles Fully adjustable multi link Geometry correction due to mounting And parts availability unrivaled by most production cars. All for ~200$ all in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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