surplus-addict Posted February 22, 2014 Share Posted February 22, 2014 Anybody done it? Using the search function brought up nothing, I think I may be venturing into unexplored territory.My father and I have a '72 240Z project car that has rusted out.... well, 'floor pans' would be giving the swiss cheese rust plates too much credit. If I kicked a little bit, the "floor" would give way. Thank crappy seals and pooled water for that. The front frame rails need to be replaced as well, since this particular Z got into a bit of a crash in its past life, and the rear hatch sill is a rusted mess, but that's beside the point.Back on topic: I was thinking of using a 4'x8' sheet of 18 gauge cold rolled steel, and cutting/forming it to fit, then using my MIG to weld it in.Or, since we have it... a 1970 Chevy C series steel hood. Giant hood, more than enough to use for the floor pans.While I realize it's not like the Bad Dog or Zedd findings replacments, theoretically it would be strong and durable, albeit heavy.We're wanting to work with what we have and what we can scrounge up: not exactly rich here, and floor pans are $400... that's a lot. With the money saved by doing this ourselves, we could get the material to make the front frame rails Pete Paraska made plus a bunch extra for seals, hoses, etc.Plus, with this 240z, some character could actually be beneficial for it It's lead a rough life (been sitting for 10 years, rusting...).So, what ya think? Doable? Crazy?Regardless the Z is gonna get back on the road Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted February 22, 2014 Share Posted February 22, 2014 If you don't have money, you spend time. There's work involved in forming and shaping the pan correctly so you would be hours ahead starting with a flat sheet of 18 gauge. Measure three times and cut once. Try to save the seat mounts from the old pans. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted February 22, 2014 Share Posted February 22, 2014 When I bought my car, it had a cookie sheet on the driver side held in place with a thick layer of bathtub calk. It was fine until I got all self-righteous about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AkRev Posted February 22, 2014 Share Posted February 22, 2014 First off, Welcome. I have seen many people do the floor DIY. Here is an example of a build that did it http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/41372-1971-datsun-240z-restoproject-vidspics/ The most import things are planing and tools. If you got those covered you can accomplish a lot of great things. Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wickiewicked240z Posted February 22, 2014 Share Posted February 22, 2014 I would buy a sheet of metal. Draw the floor shape on it go to a car shop that has a brake and a bead roller. And just ask if they can do it for you. I have found that when you go late Friday and ask the owner he either charges you very little $$ or he doesn't. I'm talking from personal experience first time went on a Friday took a piece of aluminum ask the owner if he could cut it(was making a heat shield for webers) he did he even bend it to shape he also did a bead roll so it wouldn't bend/warp in the middle( cost me a large Dr. Pepper). Second time took more aluminum sheet to make a plenum he cut the shapes for me.I asked him how much he said next time bring a case of beer. Next day I show up with a case of beer for him. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sideways Posted February 23, 2014 Share Posted February 23, 2014 So heres a very stupid question while were on the topic of making our own boards... How "structural" are the floor boards in the S30 chassis? I wouldnt be terribly surprised if the seat mounts added some benefit, but what about the actual metal where your feet actually go? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
socorob Posted February 23, 2014 Share Posted February 23, 2014 I replaced a large section on my drivers side with flat sheetmetal. Now I am getting close to needing carpet. My car is a 78 and I lost a lot of shape in the floor. Has anyone that replaced floors with flat sheetmetal found a carpet kit that fits ok? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted February 23, 2014 Share Posted February 23, 2014 The floor pan are structural in the sense that they hold the seat mounts and support the transmission mount. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
surplus-addict Posted February 24, 2014 Author Share Posted February 24, 2014 Thanks guys! I'm gonna go with the 4'x8' sheet of 18GA instead of the hood, that does make more sense for both my wallet and sanity. I think I miiiiight be able to get away without using a bead roller on the edges, I'm fairly competent with a hammer and dolly. Well, I just gotta get to work it seems! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted February 24, 2014 Share Posted February 24, 2014 Funny you should post this. I'm doing this right now in my 280. I opted for 2x2 1/8" wall for the new rails to tie in both subframes. Here is a pic of the new floor that I had a friend bend up for me. Will lay in nicely. Granted, my z didn't have much cancer compared to some. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr_han_solo Posted February 25, 2014 Share Posted February 25, 2014 (edited) I recently did this (Fall 2013) here are some pictures of my progression. I found it best to make a cardboard template and get it to fit before you cut your sheet metal. Passenger side complete and how the drivers side looked originally: Cut what was left of the floor after I cut it out (also a better look at the passenger side) I should go ahead and say that you may want to replace your framerails depending on how rusted they are. I took so left over stock that I had and beefed mine up and boxed them before I put my floor pan in.: Cardboard template: Now is a good time to hit your frame-rail and remaining oil pan with a wire brush and rust encapsulator. Cut and bent the floorpan. Also cut holes to weld the frame-rail to the pan. Did a lot of research and found that spot welds were a lot more economical and just as strong as making a line weld. That said, you will have to lay down beads around the floor pan itself. Also, I should note that this custom floorpan isn't as "neat" as one you would buy. Not is it bent like Sunny Z's floorpan is above. Just a thought if you are wanting to go the custom route. After welding, grind down your welds to knock off any sharp points. Then fill seams with caulk. You can get automotive caulk at an auto parts store. On the drivers side (side pictured), I actually used latex caulk from Lowes. Just wanted to see how it worked. I also tested silicone caulk, but it didn't dry or adhere to the metal. I will say the latex caulk has held up so far. I dunno how long it will last, but that's what tests are for right? After the caulk dried I painted the floor and tunnel with John Deere Blitz Black. You will notice that the passenger side if a white/gray. That is some Rustoluem paint that I bought in a quart. I noticed that it would scratch and scuff really easily when applied to the bare metal. I had a gallon of the Blitz Black left over, to inform you Blitz Black is essentially a rock hard enamel for tractors. I think it's like $30 a gallon. The stuff is made for tractors and implements so it should hold up to a floorboard. I will apply the Rustoleum white/gray over it, hopefully it will stick better. Here is the only shot I have of the finished floor: All in all, I saved a lot of money. Think I paid about $60 for the sheet metal, $8 for the caulk, and $5 for the rust encapsulator. Pretty much had everything else on hand. I'm confident that you can do a much better job than I. - Han Edited February 25, 2014 by mr_han_solo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted February 25, 2014 Share Posted February 25, 2014 I did one car with Bad-Dog pans and rails and one just custom with cardboard mockup like han_solo. The "pre-formed" pans are still a lot of fab work. Probably about the same either way. I have a 3rd Z to do floors this summer and will do custom with a flat sheet. Big leaded rubber mallet, a steel table, some 2x4s, earplugs, goggles, gloves and a grindr Kinda fun actually. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B. Whisky Posted March 7, 2014 Share Posted March 7, 2014 In the middle of the very same thing myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B. Whisky Posted March 7, 2014 Share Posted March 7, 2014 (edited) 1x3" 14 gauge tubing for the rails. Used a wide flat vise grip and some beer to bend the edges. Edited March 7, 2014 by B. Whisky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B. Whisky Posted March 7, 2014 Share Posted March 7, 2014 I used angle steel to create a lip along the length of the rocker, so as to align the floor with that. The floor now sits a half inch or so higher but I think its for the better Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted March 7, 2014 Share Posted March 7, 2014 I used angle steel to create a lip along the length of the rocker, so as to align the floor with that. The floor now sits a half inch or so higher but I think its for the better That's how it's done! Nice work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted March 10, 2014 Share Posted March 10, 2014 Finished up my passenger's side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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