RebekahsZ Posted March 25, 2014 Share Posted March 25, 2014 See my new thread in the Body section. Car is in body shop getting hogged out for bigger shoes. Trying to go from 26" slicks to 28", and planning for 275/60/15 MT drag radials for the GA Half Mile this fall and the Ohio Mile next summer. And no, this never was a rust free body. But I still feel a bit like a rapist. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted March 25, 2014 Share Posted March 25, 2014 You wouldn't have to cut as much if you'd center the wheel in the well! I swear some japanese engineer was sleeping when they offset it. Oh well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted March 25, 2014 Author Share Posted March 25, 2014 I'm being serious. What would it take, SunnyZ, if I wanted to retain my Z31/R200 drivetrain? Custom LCAs that were offset backward at the inboard end? But wouldn't that require moving the upper strut mount backward? Talk me thru it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted March 25, 2014 Share Posted March 25, 2014 My upper struts are in the factory location. I'm sure its probably not the best for handling. I have no idea how you could do it with what you have, to be honest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted March 25, 2014 Share Posted March 25, 2014 Yes, you'd need to move the strut tower back in the chassis. If you just built an arm to move the strut back, then the strut would get less and less perpendicular to the control arm as the suspension compressed. Not good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted March 25, 2014 Author Share Posted March 25, 2014 Jon, teach a little more. What are the potential negative effects of running reverse caster in the back (conceivably non-steering) end of a suspension? Although I haven't heard SunnyZ complain about having trouble holding it straight at 135mph. But SunnyZ hasn't been to a road course with his car (and that needs to change or there was no reason to stay IRS-and he did a heck of a lot of work to stay IRS). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted March 25, 2014 Share Posted March 25, 2014 The strut and control arm are designed to operate perpendicularly. There is no mechanism in the control arm from the factory to allow the strut angle to change because it is an H arm with level inside pivots; it's just designed to go straight up and down. If you run the strut at an angle, the angularity increases as the strut compresses. This puts a lot of side load on the strut itself, as well as a twisting force on the outside of the control arm. Maybe bushings will compress enough to make up for that, but it's putting some amount of force (which I would think would be pretty considerable) on all the suspension parts back there. I don't know what TTT did on SunnyZ's car. If they did something to keep the strut perpendicular to the control arm, then it might be fine. Maybe the moved the strut housing in relation to the hub. I think they could do that with their own proprietary uprights that they make. Some people are making control arms and advertising that you can shim the wheel back in the well. I think AZC says that about their stuff and I want to say someone else does too, but I can't remember who. Regardless, it's a bad idea. If you do an A arm and toe link, then you can rotate the strut without putting any strain on the strut and arm, but you would have to run it through from full droop to full bump and make sure that nothing was binding within the range of travel. My own A arm and toe link binds after just a few degrees, but I wasn't trying to move the wheel, I was focused on getting rid of the stiction of the bushings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rturbo 930 Posted March 26, 2014 Share Posted March 26, 2014 (edited) I don't know what TTT did on SunnyZ's car. If they did something to keep the strut perpendicular to the control arm, then it might be fine. Maybe the moved the strut housing in relation to the hub. I think they could do that with their own proprietary uprights that they make. I don't remember who, but I've read of someone here doing that. Custom ordered pieces from TTT with the mounting holes for the hub moved back a little bit. Edited March 26, 2014 by rturbo 930 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted March 26, 2014 Share Posted March 26, 2014 I don't remember who, but I've read of someone here doing that. Custom ordered pieces from TTT with the mounting holes for the hub moved back a little bit. Its me. I just had them weld the backing plate onto the "spindle" about .75" to the rear of factory. I haven't seen any ill effects thus far. As keith mentioned, haven't been to a road course. That would have been a better goal this year than a turbo setup..... oh well, just keeping up with the Jones'. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted March 26, 2014 Author Share Posted March 26, 2014 Nah, you'd have put your foot thru those rusty floors under heavy braking. Then what would you have done? You're just taking care of business. I've been wondering how you guys handle a turbo-d car on a road course. Do you just open up your waste gate to keep you from spinning coming out of the turns? Can the boost be managed to come on smoothly? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted March 26, 2014 Share Posted March 26, 2014 Nah, you'd have put your foot thru those rusty floors under heavy braking. Then what would you have done? You're just taking care of business. I've been wondering how you guys handle a turbo-d car on a road course. Do you just open up your waste gate to keep you from spinning coming out of the turns? Can the boost be managed to come on smoothly? With my Holley EFI, I can ramp boost by gear, boost by time, or boost by wheel speed (front or rear) If I get a front hub with an ABS sensor, thats the best option as it takes wheel spin out of the equation. Or, I could just set it at 5 psi and drive! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thezguy Posted March 27, 2014 Share Posted March 27, 2014 Holley Efi has the ability to control boost/timing using wheel speed sensors? I thought the davis box was needed in order to do that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted March 27, 2014 Author Share Posted March 27, 2014 What happens when your front wheels leave the ground? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geno51 Posted March 27, 2014 Share Posted March 27, 2014 (edited) I am going pro EFI they have the ability to do all of the above Also for what its worth avoid justin with Zforce like a hooker with herpes... I paid him on Jan 18th for a set of flares and they never showed up I have been dealing with lies the entire time and going weeks with out communication, I am days away from pressing charges and taking him to small claims court. Edited March 27, 2014 by geno51 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thezguy Posted March 27, 2014 Share Posted March 27, 2014 (edited) I looked into PRO EFI but was not happy with the interface. Holley is much easier to navigate and understand. I do like the Traction control and Flex fuel option built into EFI though. Edited March 27, 2014 by thezguy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geno51 Posted March 27, 2014 Share Posted March 27, 2014 I looked into PRO EFI but was not happy with the interface. Holley is much easier to navigate and understand. I do like the Traction control and Flex fuel option built into EFI though. Flex fuel interface is the main reason I am going with it. Pro efi is based in arizona and I have been to their facility. I cant go wrong when i can drive a 15 miles and have their techs help me out. Also the rolling anti lag and flat foot shifting will be sick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
socorob Posted March 27, 2014 Share Posted March 27, 2014 Also for what its worth avoid justin with Zforce like a hooker with herpes... I paid him on Jan 18th for a set of flares and they never showed up I have been dealing with lies the entire time and going weeks with out communication, I am days away from pressing charges and taking him to small claims court. Same thing happened to my friend. After 10 months, he gave up and bought another set... a week after those arrived, he came home and there was a box on his porch from zforce. Apparently they will show up eventually. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thezguy Posted March 27, 2014 Share Posted March 27, 2014 Cant go wrong with local help! what exactly does EFI do different in order to accommodate no lift shifts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted March 27, 2014 Share Posted March 27, 2014 I know holley will automatically trim your fuel via WBO2 and MAP if your blend changes. I went with holley because the interface is super user friendly, and a local guy does a lot of tuning with great success. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geno51 Posted March 27, 2014 Share Posted March 27, 2014 (edited) Cant go wrong with local help! what exactly does EFI do different in order to accommodate no lift shifts? Pro efi can make it so when you touch the clutch pedal it sets the perfect RPM for the next shift and holds it also can do auto rev matching down shifts. Even has the ability to cut power on high horsepower cars by not firing one cylinder or anti lagging for milliseconds between shifts . It also holds boost between shifts by a combined efforts. Its one of the sickest systems I have seen. The E85 Features that allow you to use any combination of e85 mix is unreal Edited March 27, 2014 by geno51 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.