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Aluminum or JTR driveshaft


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Looks like it comes out about the same price-wise. Buy a used Camaro shaft and have the driveshaft shortened and buy the adapter, or have JTR build one.

 

I realize the aluminum is probably marginally lighter, but are there any other issues that I should be concerned with?

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You need to be specific to whoever builds it. If R200 diff, rear u-joint is limited to 1310 joint due to available flanges, although you can go to 1350 at tranny end. The basic slip yoke that JCI uses in the base model is cast and is pretty weak. John farms the driveshaft out to his local driveshaft shop. I would get at least a forged slip yoke if not a billet one. If you have a 240z, get a 3" tube. If 280z get a 3.5" tube (smaller tunnel in 240z). Aluminum is sexier but supposedly less strong inch to inch. And go ahead and make a safety loop. That's all I have learned (mostly the hard way). No matter who makes it talk to him first.

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For the small weight difference I'd go with the steel driveshaft. Fewer long-term issues and definitely stronger inch-for-inch. I know when JCI built mine they just combined the driveshaft from the donor Camaro and the one from my 280Z. I still have not had any issues with that component.

Jon - too bad you can't get a peek at the torque tube system on my car. I think you'd really like it for your application.

Edited by Phantom
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I had a camaro shaft shortened for my SBC setup.

 

SDC17223.jpg

 

Had the same local shop build one for the original LSx swap

 

IMG_20120403_170149.jpg

 

The Driveshaft Shop built my current shaft, and its currently getting shortened due to the changes this winter!

 

IMG_20130410_202239_300_zps76433469.jpg

 

Woot! Shafts!

 

If you have a local builder you trust, and is capable of properly balancing it, I say go local. Thats just me though! I've had great luck with the DSS as well. Bigger company, more business, and more turnaround, but they have absolutely hooked me up on everything.

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Jon,

Old photos and not real clear but the best I have at this point. These were taken back in 2004 when I still had a Y pipe into a single 2.5" exhaust. The 'Y' has been replaced with an 'X' and dual 2.5" exhausts to the back to a single Magnaflow muffler. You can sort of see the frame that bolts to the tailshaft of the trans, the dual channels running from the trans to the diff and how the channels bolt to the diff.

post-263-0-29687100-1398272569_thumb.jpgpost-263-0-47802100-1398272768_thumb.jpgpost-263-0-00689200-1398272809_thumb.jpgpost-263-0-88414100-1398272836_thumb.jpg

The cross brace you see in the third photo is not a trans mount - it is a driveshaft loop.

Edited by Phantom
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Couple more pieces of info.

When I did the conversion the car only gained a total of 30 lbs and it was all on the rear axle so it can't be too bad.

Obviously the weight is low, between the axles and near the CL of the car,

Torque/twist is transferred straight through to the diff rather than the body.

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Jon - I started with a shortened Camaro shaft. Only driveline part I've ever failed. Amazed how thin wall it is - think maybe 16 guage ish. They welded the living hell out of it and bang. Luckily it happend a block from my house not at speed so we just pushed it home. Now have Driveshaftshop Aluminum one and forgot about it.

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