NewZed Posted July 6, 2014 Share Posted July 6, 2014 Why are talking about spark to the injectors, and how do you know you have "spark" from the coil to the distributor? Spark travels from the coil to the distributor cap to an individual electrode and down the wire to a spark plug. One at a time. There will be no spark from the coil unless it has a place to go. It has to end up somewhere. It has nothing to do with timing, spark doesn't care what time it is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
konradlip Posted July 6, 2014 Author Share Posted July 6, 2014 I know I have spark for two reasons. one i put the lead out of the coil to the manifold and i can see spark. Also I hooked up the timing light to the wire between the dizzy and the coil. Also what I mean by spark timing is when the spark is created and the dizzy rotor in not facing any of the 6 wires. So basically the spark cant jump anywhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted July 6, 2014 Share Posted July 6, 2014 The distributor rotor spins inside the cap. The spark jumps to the closest electrode. You should always have spark at the spark plugs. Timing is when it happens. Connect the timing light to a plug wire and see what happens. Injectors don't get spark. They get grounded so that current can flow, opening them so that fuel can squirt. To be ignited by the spark, if it happens at the right time. Some people don't want to bother with terminology but the words are the only way to describe what's happening, or supposed to be happening. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
konradlip Posted July 6, 2014 Author Share Posted July 6, 2014 My bad I didnt mean injectors I meant spark plugs. LOL. I did connect the timing light to the number 1 injector and it doesnt get spark ever tho the dizzy does. Thats why im thinking that the spark is not strong enough to jump or that my trigger angle and trigger pos on tunerstudio may be wrong. I talked to a guy from DYI and he said that the trigger angle for their trigger wheel may only be between 50 and a 100. ans from the previous pictures I posted the dizzy shaft seems to be at the right place comparing to the 280zx FSM. so I figured it has to be timing related. Maybe I need to twist the R56 and R52 and log in the signal? maybe I need a better signal wire? IDK and I'm sad:( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted July 6, 2014 Share Posted July 6, 2014 Spark strength is a possibility. If you're seeing a spark from the coil then you're getting a trigger and the ignition transistors are breaking the circuit. Weak spark could be from dwell time on the ignition set too low. You should really post your MS settings so one of the Megasquirt guys can get you closer. You're making progress but could take a wrong turn at any moment. If you can't save a file just do a print screen to an image editor or use the Snip tool in Windows accessories to get a screen shot. Your hardware seems to be working, it's your software that needs help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
konradlip Posted July 6, 2014 Author Share Posted July 6, 2014 as i remember my cranking dwell is set to 6.0 and running dwell is set to 3.5 but just in case here is the link to my tunerstudio settings. Im running ms1 v3 with turbo dizzy and diy trigger wheel https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-in6Y4tSXL3ZVhiMk5WX1Q4Yks5WmJxNWU2b3lMTV8xdDln/edit?usp=sharing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
konradlip Posted July 8, 2014 Author Share Posted July 8, 2014 So where im stuck at is ignition timing. the spark coming from the coli seems to be all over the place. it not firing evenly while i crank the engine. number 2 and 5 plugs seem to be the only ones the get spark. all this seems be off. i twist the r52 and r56 and i keep getting different timing. im also using a tooth and trigger logger but i dont know what im aiming for. if someone could send me a screenshot of how their trigger and tooth logger looks like that would be great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loy Posted July 8, 2014 Share Posted July 8, 2014 Please post log files and your msq. During cranking, timing should be constant unless your running RPM is too low. You need to read the manual. Heres a link on how to adjust the pots. http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/vradjust.htm DIYautotune's wheel is a 12-1. So you will see 11 then one long like here. http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_articles/vrsensor/images/toothlog.PNG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
konradlip Posted July 8, 2014 Author Share Posted July 8, 2014 (edited) my tune is just two post up in the link. and thats how my tooth logger looks like more or less( the tall ones are tall and the rest are medium but not all exactly the same length. also i have a picture of a dizzy cables connected above. can you verify that the dizzy is connected correctly? thanks. Also my craking first jumps to like 400 then down to around 200 and stays there until i stop cranking then it gangs around 80 for like a second and died down. Edited July 8, 2014 by konradlip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
konradlip Posted July 9, 2014 Author Share Posted July 9, 2014 so i was on the phone with matt from diy and he told me to resolder everything for optical sensor. so i did that and now im not getting any signal at all. idk what should I do. i did the tachselect to optin and tsel to optout Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
konradlip Posted July 9, 2014 Author Share Posted July 9, 2014 also on a previous page i have a pic of the dizy can anyone make a drawing or diagram of how exactly the turbo dizzy is suppose to be wired. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loy Posted July 10, 2014 Share Posted July 10, 2014 (edited) From you distributor pic. Green (empty) Red White Black green (1 degree signal), black (ground), red (+12v), white (120 degree signal). You need to install a pull up resistor to 12V on the white line. Also looking at your MSQ, It looks to be set up to run wasted spark. You are running a single coil correct? If so follow below. "For a distributor based setup with a trigger wheel, simply follow all of the wheel decoder instructions but rather than setting SparkB, C, etc as outputs (as in a wastedspark setup) only set LED17 as SparkA output and ensure all other spark outs are NOT set:" Edited July 12, 2014 by loy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
konradlip Posted July 10, 2014 Author Share Posted July 10, 2014 wow. if you are looking at the pic i posted then my setup is more like this N/C Power Signal Ground Also I'm using a turbo 1983 dizzy with DIY trigger wheel and Im set up for optical sensor in my ecu. That includes Tachselect to Optin, Tsel to Optout, XG1 to XG2, D1 and D2 jumped and a 1k 1/2w resistor from 12s to tachselect So should i change the spark output to only LED 17 if im only running single coil??? Because thats not what it says on the diy website. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted July 10, 2014 Share Posted July 10, 2014 Megamanual? You haven't described the ignition module, igniter, coil driver, IGBT.... What is supposed to be controlling your coil? I have some kind of ignition module inside the ECU it look like the bosch one since the base is metal. It would probably help you you to be more precise in your thinking. The last statement on the DIY instructions for the setup that you say you have is important. Note that "some kind of module with a metal base" is not a choice. http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_articles/using_diyautotune_nissan_trigger_discs.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
konradlip Posted July 10, 2014 Author Share Posted July 10, 2014 i know my spark works because when i had it setup for vr sensor it did fire, just no at the right time. my problem now is that im not getting the rpm signal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted July 10, 2014 Share Posted July 10, 2014 Works and works right are two different things. My point was that you don't really even know what parts you're working with. You're just switching settings and hoping. Try to get back to a solid base, and set things up right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
konradlip Posted July 10, 2014 Author Share Posted July 10, 2014 thats what i want to do but i dont feel like replacing every single thing on there. im trying to do this one step at a time but i have no idea about megasuirt. everywhere i look there are different answers to what my setup is. one tells me vr sensor one tells my optical on tells me use all three spark outputs one tells me use only one. it confusing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
konradlip Posted July 10, 2014 Author Share Posted July 10, 2014 If i did set it up only for spark output A would i have to change my trigger wheel trigger pos since only A would be used. I know if i dont do that I will get a error from tunerstudio. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loy Posted July 12, 2014 Share Posted July 12, 2014 (edited) Only A-C should be populated. wow. if you are looking at the pic i posted then my setup is more like this N/C Power Signal Ground After looking at it again you are correct. I fixed my post. Edited July 12, 2014 by loy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmorrone1214 Posted July 22, 2019 Share Posted July 22, 2019 Did you ever fix this issue? Kinda getting the same problem. Have spark to the distributor but not to the plugs. Can has been running for the past months and now just out of no where I only get spark to the distributor cap. MS2 V3 L28et. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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