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280z dying!


Nismo280zEd

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OK once again i had to walk home from my car tonight. Either these parts fix it or a 280z is gonna be up for grabs shortly! If anybody has been following my posts they know my problem but if you havent i'll tell it again.

 

Pretty much... one day it will start idle fine run like a champ. then next week, next month, or 5hrs later, it will run like crap. won't idle well, then reverse is fine.. but you put it in first and you pretty much dont have throttle. if your lucky you can make it to 3k then shift and make it to 2 1/2k in second then shift and very slowly make it to 2 1/2 in third. you can't give it full throttle usually half or under.. then when it gets really bad like tonight. you can't give it any throttle you can rev it up w/ the clutch in to about 3k then start to let the clutch out and the revs just drop to 1,500. really anoying. any thoughts ideas? have a new coil and tps sensor on it's way (second new tps sensor i've bought) distributor has new pickup coil, air gap set at i think .013 or .13 i set it in the middle of what the book said. New afm, MSA's big bore throttle body 60mm i think, CAI (MSA);ported and polished head; Nissan performance cam from japan, NGK wires (which are crap in my opinion) Split fire spark plugs, gapped at 1 i think. carbon canister removed, a/c removed, egr valve disabled, accelerator dashpot disabled. vacumn bottle disabled. thas pretty much all the stuff that you guys might ask.

 

Any ideas would be GREATLY appreciated before i take a baseball bat to it. ( that would be depressing )

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Guest Anonymous

Ed ..remove the gas cap and see if the problem persists. When it is running ruff -remove the gas cap and see what happens. One of all the fuel lines could be plugged. This happens to a lot of the old Zs My old silver z got its gas cap taken away 2 years ago for this type of behavior and has ran good ever since..runs so good no need to fix the problem for another 2 years.

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Had a similar problem in my 77 280z before going turbo. It turned out to be a rusty gas tank. The crap from the gas tank was clogging my fuel filter and causing mysterious stalling, loss of power, etc. I had to drop the tank and have it cleaned. Fortunately it wasn't too far gone.

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ED, Now this is just one more thing to check,not totally up on 280Z,My friend had same prob on his 78 and it turned out to be a very expensive box on the passenger side kick panel,which you could probly get next to nothing at a yard.It had to do with the rpm sending unit the stock FI runs off the RPM gauge(believe it or not).Maybe some one else knows what Im talking about and can varify.Good luck! PS, nono.gif PLEASE NO HAMMERS!!

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well like i said... this will be the second brand new tps sensor i've gotten.. it's on it's way. i'm gonna take apart the old one and see what i can do w/ it when i get the new one. I also recieved shipment on a new coil today. i have a crane fireball PS20 coil. i remember i did the gas cap trick a while back made no difference but hey i'll try it again. also i have brand new fuel pump tank and i cleaned all the metal lines and put new rubbber ones on.. I'll check my fuel filter though. ya never know what's in the fuel!

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Got the new coil installed this afternoon made a very noticeable difference in spark strength. Also i tried the gas cap idea.. didn't help a bit. now that my plugs are firing all the time it seems that my car is running about 35-40 degrees advanced according to the crank pulley. Gonna drop the oil pump this weekend and rotate it around. Gonna replace the fuel filter monday. I'll let you guys know. Also recieved shipment on my TPS sensor so i'll be installing that monday as well.

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just a thought... check your FPR connection for corrosion, along with your AFM and throttle body plugs...

 

Make sure that you dont have a "sticky" Air Flow Meter... I let my car sit for a while and when i went to start it up i had problems with fuel pressure because my airflow meter wasn't moving freely enough to let in air, or properly regulate fuel flow.

 

just a thought.

Joe

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Ed i have the same problem with my z. I found that this is most likely the fuel filter/tank is dirty. I have the clear fuel filter through wich i can see rust so i'm guessing that the tank has rust. I haven't tried to fix it yet but this is most likely it. You might want to reasearch this more with your z.

John

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ok so i'm sure your tired of reading these posts.. but i'm tired of wondering if i'll get home everday. was looking over thigns again today and found that the seal on my air regulater pretty much deteriorated you could pull the two pieces apart... i used some gasket sealer and put the two back together... but would this be a problem contributing to my car running bad? according to the manual it looks like it justs help it run smooth at idle in the cold.. am i right?

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It has two different reactions i guess you would say... when the tank is low... it will die w/ barely any throttle it'll go to 2 then everything will turn off it seems then come back to life about 800 rpm. with a full tank... you have full throttle.. but it acts like there is a rev limiter at 4k. I've just about given up at this point any and all ideas are welcome.

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A similar situation would happen to my 240 Volvo and it would drive me nuts, I finally replaced the in-tank fuel priming pump and the "sock" filter that attaches to it. Also, I replaced the fuel filters (Volvo has two). Just a thought. How are your fuel injectors, clean? Just thining....

 

Davy

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