k5kickin Posted September 18, 2014 Share Posted September 18, 2014 (edited) So I'm starting this thread for a friend while he learns more about the car. I myself built a 260z and never got around to posting it or even painting it just did the drivetrain and suspension work for the car. This is the car he just put a down payment on until he finishes paying the guy on friday. Clean title, current registration and pink in hand.The actual mileage is unknown, but estimated to be around 160,xxxAll new part's have less than 1,000 miles on them.Receipts for nearly all new part's put into this car will be included with the sale.Ford 302 5.0 HO engineWeiand X-cellerator intake, new edelbrock 600cfm 4 barrel carb, new block hugger headers, new roller timing chain, new waterpump, underdrive crank pulley, new lokar throttle linkage, new electronic duraspark 2 distributor, new accel 300+ ignition, new MSD coil, new one wire 90amp alternator, new fabricated aluminum valve covers, new allstar air cleaner.Ford Racing Z spec 5 speed trans, brand new from summit racingNew clutch, flywheel, throwout bearing and pilot bearingNew billet short shifterConverted to hydraulic actuated clutch using a new wilwood master cylinder and cnc slave cylinderGriffin aluminum radiator, newLincoln electric fanR200 rear endRT differential mount for added strengthTokico HP shocks and tokico 280z springs, the 280z springs are linear rate and not progressive like the 240z version, newMSA 1 inch front sway bar with poly bushings, newFront control arms, steering rack, steering coupler, and TC rods all have new urethane bushingsNew balljoints and tie rod end'sNew brake booster, new 15/16 master cylinder, 4 piston front calipers and rear drums converted to 240sx disc with working e-brake and proportioning valve installed for front to rear bias adjustment15x8 0 offset Centerline Convo Pro aluminum 2 piece wheels with 225/50 falken ZE912 tires, newNardi leather steering wheelClassic Recaro style seatsNew Carter electric fuel pump, new holley HP billet fuel pressure regulator and new aluminum fuel lines ranMSA type 1 air dam, newNew windshield and rear hatch weatherstripping The body is fairly straight and has never been wrecked.It has no rust, the rust that it did have I have already fixed.The only rust it had was the dog leg area on both sides that I patched with sheet metal that will need filler when/if the buyer get's it painted, a patch that was welded in correctly underneath the passenger side seat and the rear hatch sill area was patched with sheet metal and filled with filler to smooth it out.The car is driveable but not 100% complete.What it still need's-Interior need's finished ( door panels, carpet, center console and a few other small pieces for those who like the cheap plastic interior ), the speedometer cable made and hooked up, the turn signals hooked up, and the windshield wipers installed if you plan on driving it in the rain ( I haven't and planned on never driving it in the rain ).The dude was cool enough to source door cards as well. I think its a good deal for what hes getting the car for. First things I want to help him do with the car is do something about a shift boot 2. Then hook up the blinkers 3. figure out how the transmission wire transmission to speedo. whether by vss to mechanikal or electical pod cluster 4. convert the msd ingintion from 4 pulse signal to a 3 pulse for the taco. more to come when we actually pick the car up on Edited September 18, 2014 by k5kickin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted September 18, 2014 Share Posted September 18, 2014 There is a "projects" forum, you can request to the mods it be moved there rather than doing it all over... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thedarkie Posted September 18, 2014 Share Posted September 18, 2014 What ballpark $$$ was the car? Also, can you re-post the engine bay shots, I can only see one and its small. I have a similar swap and always like to see engine bay photos for how others look.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k5kickin Posted September 18, 2014 Author Share Posted September 18, 2014 What ballpark $$$ was the car? Also, can you re-post the engine bay shots, I can only see one and its small. I have a similar swap and always like to see engine bay photos for how others look.. the car was 85 and i will when we pick the car up on saturday. I was just posting the pics of the advert off craigslist. im just a lurker and dont know all the rules and etiquette of posting, so how do i ask a mod to move the thread to the proper section? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bioto Posted September 20, 2014 Share Posted September 20, 2014 (edited) so picked the car up today trying to figure some of the bugs out. updated list of stuff to do 1 turn signals and wipers are still needed (have the steering wheel lever but nothing else for wipers. 2 get the speedometer working but found one that should work from speedhut thats gps and has a tacho in it that will work with the msd ignition. 3 figure out why the diff will make a clunk sounds if you shift it funny.... 4 figure out how all the panels go back in the car and find a cover for the spare tire so it can be flat and get carpet. 5 keep having fun learning and wrenching on the car as for speedo right now we have a gps telling us how fast we are going so we can atleast try to avoid to get a ticket XD. also will get the photos of the engine bay right now! Edited September 21, 2014 by Bioto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thedarkie Posted September 21, 2014 Share Posted September 21, 2014 Looks pretty clean, nice! I like those valve covers... might switch my shiny bling ones to something like that. As for your #3 problem, check the driveshaft bolts. Mine were slightly undersized and working themselves loose. At first it was a very occasional clunk, and then became every shift. I got some proper size and length 10.9 bolts and it cured it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phantom Posted September 26, 2014 Share Posted September 26, 2014 Also on #3 check the front differential mount. They are notorious for degrading over time and needing replacement. You will get a "clunk" with nearly every shift after a while. Do it before you twist the rear mustache bar mount because the worn front mount is letting things move around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whatnow123 Posted September 27, 2014 Share Posted September 27, 2014 Nice!! I just did this swap myself, you should check out my build 280z 5.0 ford build thread.I think it's an awesome engine to go into this car!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k5kickin Posted September 29, 2014 Author Share Posted September 29, 2014 hey guys thanks. we for the past week have been slowly working on this because of our working schedules and rain. So first the car has brand new bolts just about everywhere and has a solid diff mount in the front. All the bushing are blown so that may be a problem not too sure, they are looking pretty unhealthy but I wouldnt think that a few bad bushings on the a-arms would cause a loud clunk. Also just received our new gauge which is a speedhut 4" 160mph and 8k tach GPS gauge and its pretty damn cool. Also any idea why someone would wrap darn near the entire exhaust in the ceramic or fibreglass header wrap? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thedarkie Posted September 29, 2014 Share Posted September 29, 2014 I wrapped most of the exhaust under the car, to try to limit the heat being passed into the passenger compartment through the floor and transmission tunnel. Wrap + adhesive heat shield film = pretty good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k5kickin Posted September 30, 2014 Author Share Posted September 30, 2014 so, just drove the car and the clunk is still prevalent despite removing a-arms and pumpkin. yet the rear end still clunks. 1.BUSHINGS? 2. Visit my mechanic to see it he sees something i dont..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thedarkie Posted September 30, 2014 Share Posted September 30, 2014 Did you check the driveshaft bolts? It might not look loose, and it could only be one bolt contributing to the clunk, especially if they're undersized. Put the car in gear and get the rear wheels off the ground, have a friend rotate one of the rear wheels and watch the driveshaft and nose of the diff. Also double check the mustache bar mounts etc. You sure its not the suspension clunking? Loose gland nuts could be another one. Do a search for clunk, a million and one suggestions come back.. good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k5kickin Posted October 1, 2014 Author Share Posted October 1, 2014 Darkie thanks we checked the suspension and noticed that the springs were loose when the car is off the ground but apparently lowering springs do that. And we isolated the clunk to something in the suspension. When we push on the rear up and down we can get the "pop" clunks. so something is up with the struts is guess. Ps the gorilla who owned this car previously darn near screwed up all the studs and nuts on this car and will all probably need to be replaced. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k5kickin Posted December 9, 2014 Author Share Posted December 9, 2014 http://fresno.craigslist.org/ptd/4780555722.html so we found this parts car and turners auto wrecking gave us a pretty good deal on the whole wiper assembly and heater core. now is the time for honda motor upgrades for both and if someone could take a photo of under the dash so we can get an idea of where the heater core goes that would be great. we got the wipers down. we will need to get the hoses ran also any ideas on how to do the center shift boot in the car because there is a ugly hole sitting there and smoke and gas comes into the cabin... it will need to accomodate a t56 later on if everthing goes well. hopefully we'll get some photos of the install, and we figure out how to make wipers work with knob instead of the stick on the wheel. woo an update! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k5kickin Posted March 10, 2015 Author Share Posted March 10, 2015 So the car was totaled this weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kiwi303 Posted March 10, 2015 Share Posted March 10, 2015 Ouch, I hope you guys are alright. How'd it happen? "Hey Bubba, Hold my Beer" moment? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k5kickin Posted March 10, 2015 Author Share Posted March 10, 2015 The drive train locked up mid corner Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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