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240z Drivetrain Issues.Help!


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Symptoms-


 


lots of noise


even more loud noises when i go over bumps


on throttle loss of traction when I go over bumps (more than it should)


not smooth up shifts when banging through gears( again, more than it should)


sound from rear end when clutch is engaged


and yesterday- doesn't want to go into gear and clutch lost basically all weight.


 


The car is off to the shop today and we will see what they have to say, hopefully wont cost me too much.


 


Anyone have ideas what's goin' on here?


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The symptoms coincide with so many problems. It almost feels as though you are trying to be as vague as possible.

 

Not much merit in our guessing if you have turned it over to a good shop, it would just be our un-informed guess vs their deduced theory.

 

I'm willing to play though. Given the statements you gave as my clue...

 

Lots of noise - no clue, you have the windows open? Hard to diagnose that one more specifics needed

 

Noise over bumps - still kind of no clue, like a clunking noise gets louder? If so worn bushings, loose bolts, loose nuts, broken suspension arms/driveline mounting components

 

Loss of traction going over bumps - worn tires would be the obvious guess, more subtle would be maybe the loose driveline/suspension component shifting all of a sudden or being pushed into place during load, sure it is traction and not the clutch slipping?

 

Not smooth upshift when banging through the gears - I mean you probably shouldn't be pushing the car if it feels wounded, is it grinding? Is it jerky? This could be worn/deteriorated shift bushing, shift socket, worn syncros, low fluid, bad clutch engagement, air in the clutch line

 

Sounds from rear when clutch engaged - once again quite vague, a grinding, a whirring, a clunking, during movement, during idle, during sitting? Not sure how the clutch being engaged would affect a moving noise other then the drive shaft being under some load or putting power towards the rear. Possibly worn driveshaft u-joint?

 

Car won't go into gear, clutch basically lost weight - guessing you don't mean diet, so the return pressure dropped. Means you lost your springs on the clutch/pressure plate, popped a clutch line, leaking clutch slave, leaking clutch master, clutch finally worn out, clutch pedal out of travel.

 

Would be interesting to see what the shop says, if you want to direct my guesses towards a more accurate solution if you could elaborate it would make it a little more fair I think.

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Thanks for the response! Rear end noise is regardless of windows open or closed and is a whirring and the noise I am talking about when clutch is engaged is a clunk actually putting it into gear not while already in gear, does not happen when running or idling in neutral or with clutch pushed in but in gear. I think this could be a combination of worn diff and worn clutch. It is 43 and has lived a hard life.The noise over bumps sounds like the diff is hitting something I would say the bushings being worn are a safe bet. And yes a bit of jerking when clutch is engaged going through the gears. The joint between the driveshaft and the differential is where I think the noise is coming from when the engine is shut off, but the car is off to the shop and I will know what the problem(s) are soon and I will update the thread.

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That's much more helpful.

 

Whirring noise makes me think rotating object which makes me think drive shaft u joints, half shafts u joints, wheel bearings, or diff internals, depending on the noise.

 

If there is a clunk when you engage the gear and start to move then that points towards the diff mount being worn as you think,  most likely the diff mount/strap are showing it's age. I suspect it clunks less when you put it in reverse, most likely the front diff mount/strap is quite worn.

 

If the noise is at the peak of the bump it may be rubber isolators, a loose gland nut, or as you suggest the loose diff moving around.

 

I would not be surprised if...

Diff mount and strap has to be replaced

Clutch fluid needs to be bled, maybe clutch line, slave, and master may need to be replaced

Transmission fluid flush and refill

Rubber engine and transmission mounts changed

U joints need to be replaced for drive shaft and half shafts

Wheel bearings need replacement

Rear suspension bushings need to be replaced

 

Bad news is that it could be quite a few parts that need replacement

 

Good news is that the parts are pretty easily available, pretty easy to source, and mostly easy to install.

 

Quite interested to hear how close or far off the mark I am, keep us informed, and good luck sir.

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I have similar issues that remain to exist after my 1st drive on new struts/springs, new RT diff mount, new engine, clutch, flywheel, disc brakes, wheel bearings, urathan bushings everywhere, etc. etc.

 

I retained the old driveshaft and half-shaft universal joints as they seem totally fine, as did the wheel bearings, however I had new ones pressed into the new strut bodies.

 

I'm going to guess the whirring noise is your differential. Mine is pretty rough, I actually welded it solid and noted it being exactly the same as before... so it must be the bearings. Anything over 60 MPH before the welding and there was a LOT of rear end vibration and noise. The roads are snow covered, so I can't do a comparision at this time.

 

As far as the clunking when you're letting the clutch out, but it's fine when you're in gear... I'm not sure. I did noticed when I changed the transmission output seal that there is a LOT of lateral play in the input and output shafts. I have no idea how much is normal. I've read that as long as there isn't in and out play, it's fine to be bale to move the shaft from side to side. Maybe somone can chime in on that. I have a 4 puck racing style clutch now, which I thought may also be a contributing issue since it's kind of an an and off application, not a slipping one, and I have a total of about 10 km on it.

 

All of that said, I couldn't find my new tranni mount, so the one installed is seperated completely at this time. I'll try using a ratchet strap to suck the tranni up into the mounts crossmember and backup, to see if it eliminates any of the clunk...

 

If anyone knows about the tranni shaft play, OR what causes the jerkiness that contributes to the clunking when letting the clutch out in reverse, let us know!

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Got the car back from the shop today and everything I wanted addressed has been or at least I now know what the problem is.


 


Clutch Issues-


 


master cylinder leaking 


slave cylinder leaking 


hose broken/brittle 


 


those replaced the clutch now engages much lower than before which I like.And it works again ... which is also good!


 


Differential issues-


 


most of the problems I had with the diff can be blamed on the worn mounts which were replaced but while they were under there they found that the previous owner had put a couple "L" brackets under the diff...they said it was not interfering with anything so no need to cut it off.Maybe they saw the worn mounts and decided to put it there in case it was to fall out?


 


Also need new bushings and loss of traction is definitely tires, they're cracked up skinny all seasons.


 


Good call seattlejester!


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Orangetang-

 

That sound has now stopped (when engaging clutch) and now that I think about it I think it was only first gear that it really did it. It must have been that the differential or something attached to it was able to move since the diff mounts were worn out and whatever it was, was hitting or bumping on something.I haven't gotten a chance to look under the car but it could be the aforementioned welded in brackets.Could be something to look into for your car if you're having the same issues.Thanks for the imput

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Weather is a little better today, I took the car for its first actual drive since the new bits and it's actually pretty decent. The clutch shudder is definately just the temperment, it engages and disengages perfectly, like a new car to me. I think when the mounts show up, any further 'slop' in the driveline will be eliminated. With the RT mount and new bushings I think I'm just going to FEEL a lot more of what's going on under there. Hook-up on smooth roads is insane.

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