aongch Posted March 10, 2015 Author Share Posted March 10, 2015 Ian, I wonder which of us will get our cars out first. I've been sidetracked in trying to sell the M3, preps for smog check and re-flashing back to stock. Anyway, post up pics when you're done. So far the fuel cell install is first rate, by Offset Motorwerks, actually a BMW shop that does SCCA Spec E30 preps. I'm also sourcing shops that can supply RB26 parts in case I will need them once tracking starts. My next immed goals are a) upgraded, baffled oil pan. McKinney, Accusump? wider tread esp at rear. Thinking about stagger 17" rear because of more choices of R-comps, while still keeping the overall diameter equal to the 16"s up front. Have anyone done this? I could easily fit 255s at rear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EF Ian Posted March 16, 2015 Share Posted March 16, 2015 I'm hoping to get mine running properly tomorrow, its meant to be getting tuned on Monday all going well, can't wait. I love my 16" wheels, but you just can't get enough tyres In that size so I will be going 17's, I think I can run 275's if I go for a custom wheel. I am also considering 16's on front and 17's on the rear, really not sure how it would look. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aongch Posted March 17, 2015 Author Share Posted March 17, 2015 (edited) Ian, Going stagger 16" ft/17" rr, overall diameter can be maintained close enough, around 25", with lower profile rears, easy. I had an inquiry on some measurements on the cell mounted position. Edited March 17, 2015 by aongch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EF Ian Posted March 29, 2015 Share Posted March 29, 2015 Will be interested to see how it looks once you're done with your wheels. I was planning on fitting flares but I'm actually getting enough traction with the way I have it now so I might not bother. Trying to update my thread atm but I'm having problems pasting things into my editor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aongch Posted August 6, 2015 Author Share Posted August 6, 2015 (edited) Woohoo finally ready for first track day... final checks, fluids, pads, extended studs, susp bolts..... Speed Ventures event Fontana CA http://speedventures...ail.aspx?id=530 My 73, a '71 and '78 are IN for the full 2.7 mi Roval!! Anyone else local want to stop by or also run the Roval or autox? Hope to see more out there. Edited August 6, 2015 by aongch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EF Ian Posted August 7, 2015 Share Posted August 7, 2015 Enjoy it, take some videos, hope it goes well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aongch Posted August 8, 2015 Author Share Posted August 8, 2015 (edited) Great time at the track at Auto Club Speedway's 2.7 mi Roval (front straight, banking, infield), chassis, susp stayed solid. For this first time out, I found only a couple of issues. But RB ran strong, esp pulling out of corners, betw 4-6300 rpm, made many passes!! Front straight speeds around 130 so far with the Z32 5 spd. Some key feedback: - Wilwoods are amazing, although rear bias had to be dialed almost all the way out/decreased, too twitchy at heavy brake zones - No overheating whatsoever. Water temps stayed steady betw 180-190 at ambient 70-85 deg F for the day - Susp settings - camber, toe - just about spot-on, R-comps Z214 wear patterns even, temp readings across tread also even - Minor leak from diff at first session, seal? overflll? Will confirm - Coolant seepage from cap when parked after sessions. Radiator cap at 13 lbs I believe too low Next steps: - Install AFR gauge - Look into boost controller/ECU/tune, target 325 whp Results, not bad for maiden track day: Edited August 12, 2015 by aongch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aongch Posted August 12, 2015 Author Share Posted August 12, 2015 The R200 diff leak is from the breather tube, apparently this is common, will fix with tapped vent tubing attached much higher somewhere on the body. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/56986-r200-diff-puking-oil-out-of-breather/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aongch Posted August 12, 2015 Author Share Posted August 12, 2015 (edited) Track pics courtesy of Caliphotography. Front straight speeds about 130 so far first time out at current tune (8.5 lbs boost) plus Quaife not installed yet. Next target, shave 5 secs off to match M3's times at ACS. Looking into Nismo R-tune or AEM options.... Edited August 13, 2015 by aongch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EF Ian Posted August 13, 2015 Share Posted August 13, 2015 Glad it went well, looks good on track. I have the same problem with my diff breather, need to sort out a solution when I'm home next, I guess a fitting threaded in with an extension tube going somewhere higher on the chassis is the easiest option. Imo you are best to go with a top ecu and let it control your boost, has many advantages over a boost controller. If you have a good ecu you don't need to worry about running an AFR gauge either as you can't monitor it properly on track all the time anyway, just let the ECU monitor it and it can alert you to any issues and you can set it to apply an RPM limit if it goes outside the values you set. This applies to all parameters, oil temp, oil pressure, boost, water temp, fuel pressure, etc. I'm running a link G4+ Xtreme ECU and it was worth every penny, its so capable and I know my engine is safe all the the time as it monitors all sensors a hundred or so times a second. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aongch Posted August 14, 2015 Author Share Posted August 14, 2015 (edited) I was just discussing options with a local tuner familiar with the RB26. They suggested AEM ECU to replace the stock Central SPL for the various tunable options (pump gas, E85, etc) AND available support. Any inputs? Ian you mentioned the G4+, how does it compare? Anyone has experience on a reliable crank trigger system (Ross, ??) to replace the stock CAS? Again, I'm interested in a step-wise approach to mods, aiming at just over 300whp from the current 256whp. Edited August 16, 2015 by aongch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sovereign Z Posted August 14, 2015 Share Posted August 14, 2015 After seeing my brother struggle with an ecu with little local support I would recommend whatever your local tuners are comfortable with. I've heard good things about LINK/VEMS but I'd hate to troubleshoot via phone/emails. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aongch Posted August 16, 2015 Author Share Posted August 16, 2015 That is true, Sovereign, this was the case with the Evolve-R e-tunes for my M3, they're in Britain and does take a while for any turnaround/updates. I have a couple of local enough sources to 'interview', I guess the more back and forth questions/answers will tell me which shop to go with. One that seems knowledgeable is FSR Motorsports in Montclair CA. They specialize more on 2JZ motors but have actually tuned RB motors before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EF Ian Posted August 16, 2015 Share Posted August 16, 2015 (edited) Can't comment on the AEM as they are not so common here, However I believe they are also very good. All the top ECU's these days are very good, choose from AEM, Link, Motec and Haltech and you can't go wrong. For me its either Motec or Link. The link has all the features you could want and its very easy to use, I setup the entire ECU myself including building a base map to drive it to the tuners on. Never needed any support but Link is meant to be excellent for this. One of the best buys in my project. Any decent tuner can tune any of the above, if not they probably are not so good, however ask yours what they prefer. Have a look at my build thread, you should be able to see my trigger setup there, its from a UK tuner called MGT Racing, works great and its great value compared to the ross kits. A better trigger setup is well worth it. Edited August 17, 2015 by EF Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aongch Posted August 16, 2015 Author Share Posted August 16, 2015 Apprec that info, Ian, I'd take it that the MAF will be thrown out when using any of these systems, which will free up room in the engine compartment? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EF Ian Posted August 17, 2015 Share Posted August 17, 2015 MAF doesn't have to be binned, you can use it if you wish, I however got rid of mine right away, gives you so much more options for routing the piping and placing the filters, plus its better for tuning. You'll need a map sensor in any case even if you run MAF's as you need it to allow boost control so you might as well scrap the MAF's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aongch Posted April 4, 2016 Author Share Posted April 4, 2016 (edited) Prepping for another track day, all's going well. EM is still in the works, probably going with AEM. Couple of upgrades very soon though - Quaife LSD, lighter seats. Edited October 16, 2017 by aongch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EF Ian Posted April 24, 2016 Share Posted April 24, 2016 My OS Giken Superlock LSD is the best LSD I've used, that another option for you over the Quaife, it is more expensive though but compared to other diffs I've driven with, Cusco, Nismo, Quaife it is better product. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aongch Posted April 25, 2016 Author Share Posted April 25, 2016 Ian, what can you say about differences, your experience, between the Quaife and OS, since I've bought the Quaife already, just needed the install with new bearings etc? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EF Ian Posted April 25, 2016 Share Posted April 25, 2016 Theres nothing wrong with a Quaife, just for me I prefer the feel of a clutch type LSD. Only downside with the Quaife is that it can not transmit any power to the opposite wheel when the slipping wheel loses 100% of its traction. But that doesn't happen often really. I really rate Quaife in my FWD Civic. The quaife diffs seem to be quite unobtrusive unlike a lot of the clutch type diffs, you'll notice big difference compared to an open diff so I'm sure you'll love it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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