New to forum, need experienced advice Please

[Project1]

So first post here. I'm greatfull for all the info here. I have been waiting years to get a Z, so I'm more than super stoked to finally have one. I had a plan for my build, however in the first 300 miles of driving ...well pics worth 1000 words.

I would love to go LS, but it's not in my budget so I found a L28 block for $80 and looks like I'm going to get to building.

Any words of experience will be much appreciated.

I picked up a few books, and I have been reading.

What I'm thinking is:
Block: flat top pistons, good rods, stock crank.
Head: msa stage 2 cam, stainless valves, proformance springs
Bolt ons: msa header, exhaust, lone wolf manifold w/ fuel rail, supra injectors, mds box and coil.
Trans: 5 speed train, and a good clutch and flywheel.

EFI: M egasquirt EFI (in the learning process)


So I was going to strip down this new block and bring it to the machine shop with the new pistons to get cleaned up and preped.

Yes...no ... Any ideas ?

And thanks again very happy this forum exist!

Edited January 2, 2015 by Project1
Corrected title.

[skirkland1980]

Turbo or na?

[skirkland1980]

Ok. Msa header. Why the lone wolf intake?

[Project1]

Na motor

 

I was reading that swapping to that manifold with the 240sx throttle body helps a bunch, as well as cleans up that fuel injection mess

[NewZed]

 that fuel injection mess

This statement is troubling.  The mess is what makes it all go.  

 

Read through some of these threads.  I also pulled out the one that might be the most informative for learning how the mess works.

 

http://forums.hybridz.org/forum/90-l-series/

 

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/95316-braaps-l6-efi-induction-advice-and-tips/

[Project1]

This statement is troubling.  The mess is what makes it all go.  

 

Read through some of these threads.  I also pulled out the one that might be the most informative for learning how the mess works.

 

http://forums.hybridz.org/forum/90-l-series/

 

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/95316-braaps-l6-efi-induction-advice-and-tips/

 

Thanks for the threads.  I have read that BRAAPs L6 EFI-induction advice and tips several times.  

 

 

I did have a question about pistons and rings. 

 

I was going to use the ITM flat top pistons.  I did see a few different kinds of pistions.  Some are just flat and others have a cut that look like they are for the valves.  Is there one thats better than the other?

 

 

I hate to post ebay links, but here what I am looking at.  Is +.030 over a good way to go?

 

Flat top 81- zx

 

Flat top w/ vavle cuts.

 

Edited January 1, 2015 by Project1

[NewZed]

You're getting ahead of yourself.  The pistons and head need to match to give the CR that you're shooting for.  You've only mentioned a block and a cam, but not the head.  You haven't talked about engine management either.  The stock system in your car now is not very tuneable, for matching the performance parts you're planning to use.

 

You didn't say which books you've read but these two are worth the money, compared to what you'll spend on the engine.

 

http://www.amazon.com/Modify-Your-Nissan-Datsun-Engine/dp/1931128049/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1420155469&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=How+to+Modify+Your+Nissan+%26+Datsun+OHC+Engine

 

http://www.amazon.com/Rebuild-Your-Nissan-Datsun-Engine/dp/1931128030/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1420155426&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=How+to+Rebuild+Your+Nissan+%26+Datsun+OHC+Engine

[Project1]

You're getting ahead of yourself.  The pistons and head need to match to give the CR that you're shooting for.  You've only mentioned a block and a cam, but not the head.  You haven't talked about engine management either.  The stock system in your car now is not very tuneable, for matching the performance parts you're planning to use.

 

You didn't say which books you've read but these two are worth the money, compared to what you'll spend on the engine.

 

http://www.amazon.com/Modify-Your-Nissan-Datsun-Engine/dp/1931128049/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1420155469&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=How+to+Modify+Your+Nissan+%26+Datsun+OHC+Engine

 

http://www.amazon.com/Rebuild-Your-Nissan-Datsun-Engine/dp/1931128030/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1420155426&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=How+to+Rebuild+Your+Nissan+%26+Datsun+OHC+Engine

 

thoes are two of the books I bought.

 

For the head I was planing

     Head: msa stage 2 cam, stainless valves, proformance springs, stock head gasket.

 

I am building a car that will be street driven, more of a daily driver.  I have a few other projects that are not that great for driving around town, so my hopes was to make this my DD.  So 93 at the pump max ... the usuals.

 

I was not shooting for an exact CR, just not high enough where fuel and such becomes an issue.

 

Is this build mild enough that I could use the stock management?  

 

I was going to get the pistons first because I wanted to bring the block and the pistons to the machine shop as the frist step.

 

I will post pics through this build.  

 

Truly, thank you everyone for all the help.  I'm really stoked to build this car.  I work as a medic (so my budjet is limited) so it is a blessing to build this right the frist time and not have to go back and do it again later.

 

Edited January 3, 2015 by Project1

[skirkland1980]

Use a stock intake and take the money you saved on a lone wolf and get a megasquirt efi system. You'll be glad you went to a programmable system. For a dd the any stock efi intake will perform well.

[Project1]

Use a stock intake and take the money you saved on a lone wolf and get a megasquirt efi system. You'll be glad you went to a programmable system. For a dd the any stock efi intake will perform well.

 

I saw you were using the megasquirt II v3.0.  It has been pretty reliable for you?  I'll have to read more about this.  I have read a little, but it looked like something I will need to spend some time with.  will that work with the msd box.  I have the msd street fire box/coil set up right now.   

 

Ok, I will put this on the list and start taking a look at setting this up.   Thanks!

[skirkland1980]

I fried my 3.0 box when I let a power wire touch the case. So if you go MS don't ever do that. I'm now using a v3.57 which works the same it's just built by a machine. You can assemble a v3.0 yourself if you want. You should be able to do the conversion for around $500-600. It's a great learning experience. There is plenty of technical support here and through the diy website.

[skirkland1980]

I forgot to answer your other questions. Yes it's reliable as long as it's set up correctly and yes it works with aftermarket ignition systems.

[Project1]

I forgot to answer your other questions. Yes it's reliable as long as it's set up correctly and yes it works with aftermarket ignition systems.

 

Awesome, it's a plan, I will add it to the list and read up on this. 

 

Its going to take me a few months ($$ wise) to get this motor built.  So I will have plunty of time to take my time and read and build this right.  hopefull this month I can get the pistons and get the block to the machine shop.

 

Any ideas on the pistion choice?  Or what CR I should focus on and the best way to build for a street driven DD? 

Edited January 3, 2015 by Project1

[Project1]

Yes or no on these pistons? I was going to order them, however open to any other suggestions.

 

81 stock flat top +.030 ITM RY6134-030

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Engine-Piston-Kit-ITM-RY6134-030-fits-81-83-Nissan-280ZX-2-8L-L6-/111488485544?_trksid=p2054897.l4275

 

-----------

 

 

I think I may rebuild this 5 speed transmission. I have heard from a few friends the transmissions are bomb proof, just put it in and it will be fine. Any thoughts on that idea?

Edited January 6, 2015 by Project1

[skirkland1980]

I'm using itm pistons so I know they're good. Not sure why that add is for 4. L series is known for detonation so keep the cr on the low side if you're using a stock cam.

[Project1]

I'm using itm pistons so I know they're good. Not sure why that add is for 4. L series is known for detonation so keep the cr on the low side if you're using a stock cam.

I was going to use the msa stage 2 cam. It's mild and has a nice power band for daily street drive.

[skirkland1980]

You need a head before Pistons so you can plan your cr. Run the cr that the cam grinder recommends. Probably 9-9.5:1.

[NewZed]

well pics worth 1000 words.

How did you do the damage?  Forgot to check the oil or just beat the piss out of it?  You might plan your new engine for longevity at high RPM if you're going to beat on the new one.

 

And you should keep reading before buying anything.  Right now you just have a list of buzz terms: Stage X cam, stainless valves, Supra injectors, MSD box, flat-tops.  Cool sounding words, but none of them really mean much.  

 

Just trying to save you some time and money.  Ideally, you'd have the whole engine and its control system spec.'ed out before buying anything.

[madkaw]

New Zed speaks with wisdom. You still need to do more searching. Skirkland is right, spend your $ on MS before getting an aftermarket intake. The"mess" should be your target plan if you are going MS. If you have searched you have realized that a great TUNE will get you further then headers, intakes, SS valves. You still haven't answered what head you are using? The head is everything done right.

[Project1]

How did you do the damage?  Forgot to check the oil or just beat the piss out of it?  You might plan your new engine for longevity at high RPM if you're going to beat on the new one.

 

And you should keep reading before buying anything.  Right now you just have a list of buzz terms: Stage X cam, stainless valves, Supra injectors, MSD box, flat-tops.  Cool sounding words, but none of them really mean much.  

 

Just trying to save you some time and money.  Ideally, you'd have the whole engine and its control system spec.'ed out before buying anything.

I just bought the Z. I put about 200-300 miles on it in about the month that I had it. It had a knock, I thought it needed a valve adjustment...so I did one, and no improvement. So I dropped the oil pan and everything looked good, except the oil was super thick and nasty but no sign of coolant. After the oil change the knock sounded 10x worse... So I droped the pan again and changed the rod barrings, but that made no improvement at all. I was not driving the car at the time because of the knock. My friend thought it was the valves and was worse because I did the valve adjustment cold. So I was letting the car warm up to do another valve adjustment, and that ended with a half of piston rolling down the driveway and a rod sticking through the block.