Naptown Dave Posted June 18, 2015 Share Posted June 18, 2015 Just the flash and bang when you strike the arc. I did the same with mine with a thick rubber isolator but I was more concerned with the pump noise than vibration causing the pump to fail. I would imagine if your inlet and outlet lines aren't in a bind with the pump it should be no different than mounting anywhere else. I can hear it run at idle and cruise but it's not a big deal. I've ran the tank down far enough to hear the pump cavitate while pulling away at an incline so it's kind of a fuel dummy light. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableSrv Posted June 18, 2015 Author Share Posted June 18, 2015 LOL! the tank has been empty of fuel long ago and cleaned... won't have to worry about explosions from welding! Plus I welded on my sump, rotated my top evap line and closed off all the other evap lines as I won't need them anymore since I'm deleting the evap canister and directly attaching my evap line to the fuel filler hose. However with that done... I wanted to keep the fuel tank and fuel pump together so that if I remove one it's kinda all one piece.. just not sure if having the fuel pump and regulator attached to the tank is a good idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistafosta Posted June 18, 2015 Share Posted June 18, 2015 LOL! the tank has been empty of fuel long ago and cleaned... won't have to worry about explosions from welding! Plus I welded on my sump, rotated my top evap line and closed off all the other evap lines as I won't need them anymore since I'm deleting the evap canister and directly attaching my evap line to the fuel filler hose. However with that done... I wanted to keep the fuel tank and fuel pump together so that if I remove one it's kinda all one piece.. just not sure if having the fuel pump and regulator attached to the tank is a good idea. Just use isolation mounts, should be fine. You should always use those for fuel pumps anyways, so its no big change. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableSrv Posted June 19, 2015 Author Share Posted June 19, 2015 so the only concern is isolation mounts aka rubber isolators? other than that I should be good? Sweet will start working on where I'm going to mount them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted June 19, 2015 Share Posted June 19, 2015 That's what I did. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableSrv Posted June 21, 2015 Author Share Posted June 21, 2015 ended up starting my exhaust build... or at least the main down pipe from the headers that way I can attach my O2 sensor bungs and get closer to starting her up. http://imgur.com/a/R7Cdd Also have a short video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VqWrwcPH8qw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableSrv Posted June 23, 2015 Author Share Posted June 23, 2015 Both sides now have o2 bungs and are ready for the vband clamps. Those should arrive tomorrow so will have pictures of the finished headers once they are welded up. Then going to start working on the merge into the Y adaptor. From there I'm going to leave it and focus the rest of my attention to getting my fuel tank, lines and all that done. Went to remove the evap tank and it appears my screws are so rusted that it won't budge at all. Got all the lines removed and was going to plumb new 5/8 evap line to the fuel filler and it appears the white plastic barb is stuck and won't come out.. going to have to figure a way to get it out and replace it as it's cracked and has issues. Then I can finish getting my tank back in the car. mount tank mount fuel pump and regulator wire up fuel pump wire up chevy thunders ignition 12v+ wire oil and oil filter transmission fluid radiator fluid battery throttle cable needs to be mounted and attached Then it's starting time!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeK Posted June 23, 2015 Share Posted June 23, 2015 Is the ChevyThunder harness all new with new connectors, or a reworked harness? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableSrv Posted June 23, 2015 Author Share Posted June 23, 2015 All new connectors! I spent extra to get a better pcm as I had a 98 harness/pcm and apparently that year is a red headed step child of all pcm's.. so for 525 I got both harness and pcm of a newer car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeK Posted June 23, 2015 Share Posted June 23, 2015 Hmmm, wonder if I'd get $125 for my stock '98 harness and PCM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableSrv Posted June 23, 2015 Author Share Posted June 23, 2015 Yea still have mine... might try to sell it on ls1tech... warning tho since it's 98.. few people will want to actually buy the pcm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableSrv Posted June 25, 2015 Author Share Posted June 25, 2015 So last night started working on getting my v-bands welded on and installed and ended up getting dizzy/nausea and sick... apparently the v-bands are zinc coated and fumes got to me... I need to get a welding respirator so this shit doesn't happen. Either way updated album showing the passenger v-bands on. Will probably get to the driver side today and then see about getting the Y adaptor done as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableSrv Posted June 26, 2015 Author Share Posted June 26, 2015 rearranged the album so that you don't have to scroll all the way down to see the new stuff. tack welded the passenger side from header to Y adapter and so far it's a tight fit. To get the angles to match the tranny mount would require so many S curves to make it to the Y that it would look horrible and probably reduce flow. However like this it might touch the transmission bolts... going to have to find a way to give it more gap. Either way new pictures in the album with exhaust build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableSrv Posted June 27, 2015 Author Share Posted June 27, 2015 So today is the day I'm putting fluids in the car! Oil, radiator fluid, transmission fluid, clutch fluid... then buttoning up what is left... tightening the engine mount bolts, making sure everything is plugged in... installing my tank... adding fuel... and... HOPEFULLY A START!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted June 27, 2015 Share Posted June 27, 2015 Budget a week for getting your clutch right. If it takes less-rejoice. I found that the closer I got to a test drive, the more the pace slowed. Hang in there! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay Gadsby Posted June 27, 2015 Share Posted June 27, 2015 Fingers crossed for ya! Good luck with everything. If you think you tightened every hose clamp in the engine bay, you missed one, check em all again lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableSrv Posted June 27, 2015 Author Share Posted June 27, 2015 Well I have a remote clutch bleeder and a mightyvac for bleeding.. Hopefully it's not that bad.. Got engine mounts tightened, throttle cable attached, grounds bolted down, and evap worked out. Next is filling the Trans with fluid and apparently I'm missing 4 spark plugs... Also I don't have a way to tighten the spark plugs with headers on.. Jtr headers make for too snug a fit! Also my old battery still shows 9v so hoping it's still chargeable? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableSrv Posted June 28, 2015 Author Share Posted June 28, 2015 ugh... no starting today... Got my tank up and routed all my hoses and found that i'm short 2 feet worth of hose... not enough to run it all sadly. Otherwise did all this connected +12v switched ign to my ignition switch from the ON position. ran a wire from the fuel pump relay off chevythunders fuse box to the fuel pump (just need to ground it next) filled up all the fluids! (transmission, radiator, clutch, oil and new oil filter) tightened my engine mounts modified my alternators black exhaust shroud to give clearance to the engine mount from JCI mounted the fuse box from chevythunder in the engine bay drilled and modified my gas pedal and routed the throttle cable and verified it was able to achieve full WOT. installed brake booster hose... had a bitch figuring out what size it is... (1/2 from the ls1 intake and slightly smaller on 240z brake booster but with enough elbow grease you can tighten it down to fit.) blocked off heater hose area as I might end up going vintage air and don't feel like reinstalling my heater box even after rebuilding it. had battery charged up and it was able to get back to 12.5v but they stated it's only reading 89% capacity... and wanted to claim it was bad and sell me a new one... after all that I couldn't start it due to 2 feet of f'in hose and apparently 4 missing spark plugs... I swore I bought 8 but only 4 are installed and can't find the other 4.... I have on order one more v-band clamp, thermo-tec sleeve to cover up the wires next to the passenger header, and 3 feet more of the black stainless steel hose. Things left to do Hook up alternator charge cable to + side of the starter.. (I have wire just need to actually cut and crimp connectors on it) Hook up ground on fuel pump buy 4 more spark plugs and install and tighten all 8 of them get fuel for tank let fuel pump run to clean out lines before I connect engine side of hose. (been sitting for awhile... who knows what crawled up my hard-line... might want to push fuel through it first before letting it go in the fuel rail) make new positive cable and new grounds from battery to starter/frame Then I should be able to do a solid start and hear the engine roar as long as I didn't **** up wiring somewhere. Anyway updated album with pictures of fuse mount and tank/fuel lines. http://imgur.com/a/R7Cdd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableSrv Posted July 3, 2015 Author Share Posted July 3, 2015 IT'S ALIVE!!! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nWqjk8A2lNg Only thing bothering me is the radiator fans... they aren't coming on at all and not sure if I'm just not letting the engine run long enough or if one should always be on... or if something is wrong. Other than that, alternator charges at 14.2v which is good! With vacuum ports plugged up, she seems to idle much better and such, however if I blip the throttle then blip it quickly again... she doesn't seem to respond fast... is this another vacuum leak? or issue with just running open headers? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted July 3, 2015 Share Posted July 3, 2015 Congrats! Big day. The fans won't turn on til it gets hot-really hot. Look it up, but I think you else ill have to be over 200 degrees before the fans turn on. Can't really judge how smooth it runs until headers and O2 sensors are in. Looks great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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