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LS1 240 mounts (facts not opinion???)


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The bolt in option is what peaked my interest... that's why I put it on the list.  Ryan, I'm starting to really get into the CX racing camp the more I research.  Let us know how this is going.  Picked up my donor car yesterday... kinda feel bad to part it out it's really sweet and previously upgraded itself.   Most daunting task in all this will be wiring but wiring specialties seems to have a complete system available for less than $700.... Not sure I can pull off the DIY fab of Camaro harness?  Anyway, good to see swap guys contributing to the thread.  Still hoping this makes for a great factual sticky on the swaps that are out there. 

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The bolt in option is what peaked my interest... that's why I put it on the list.  Ryan, I'm starting to really get into the CX racing camp the more I research.  Let us know how this is going.  Picked up my donor car yesterday... kinda feel bad to part it out it's really sweet and previously upgraded itself.   Most daunting task in all this will be wiring but wiring specialties seems to have a complete system available for less than $700.... Not sure I can pull off the DIY fab of Camaro harness?  Anyway, good to see swap guys contributing to the thread.  Still hoping this makes for a great factual sticky on the swaps that are out there. 

 

I want to pull the Datsun motor but having a non heated garage its too cold right now. Its minus 15 (without wind chill) in the garage. Its suppose to warm up next week so I will see what I can accomplish then. The LS harness doesn't seem to difficult. I'm using a 2005 computer and harness. There's a you tube video step by step and there other site like http://lt1swap.com/wiringharness.htm to tell you what to remove. I want drive by wire and cruise so mine will be a little more complicated.

 

The CX mounts appear to be stainless except the piece that directly bolts to the motor which is aluminum. Welds are good. I will keep everyone posted.

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I've only found one guy so far that's documenting an install with the Dirty Dingo bolt-in kit.  His build thread showing pics of the kit installed is here: http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/1737523-another-ls1-swapped-books-76-datsun-280z-3.html

 

It's pretty clear the alternator won't fit on the lower driver's side.  It would be nice to know if the JTR headers will work, but he's going custom full length headers.

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I've only found one guy so far that's documenting an install with the Dirty Dingo bolt-in kit.  His build thread showing pics of the kit installed is here: http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/1737523-another-ls1-swapped-books-76-datsun-280z-3.html

 

It's pretty clear the alternator won't fit on the lower driver's side.  It would be nice to know if the JTR headers will work, but he's going custom full length headers.

Wow those look really clean..... My gut says dirty dingo means stock manifolds.... I'm willing to bet JTR headers will work. I'd be interested to see if cx would sell their headers without the kit.....

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I want to pull the Datsun motor but having a non heated garage its too cold right now. Its minus 15 (without wind chill) in the garage. Its suppose to warm up next week so I will see what I can accomplish then. The LS harness doesn't seem to difficult. I'm using a 2005 computer and harness. There's a you tube video step by step and there other site like http://lt1swap.com/wiringharness.htm to tell you what to remove. I want drive by wire and cruise so mine will be a little more complicated.

 

The CX mounts appear to be stainless except the piece that directly bolts to the motor which is aluminum. Welds are good. I will keep everyone posted.

Thanks for the wiring link. Sweet stuff

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Z28 sits in my driveway now... It's way nicer than I expected, so much so I feel bad tearing it down to put in the Z. It sounds really nasty with long tubes and straight pipes into muffler..... Kinda sounds that make small children cry. I can't wait to get this thing in my Z with over 1400+\- less weight.

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With the long-tube group purschase headers I still had to notch the mounts to slide them back far enough to clear my drysump pump, and still give room not to hit the headers.  The biggest benefit to them is they are VERY adjustable, atleast the weld on kit was...

 

Wow those look really clean..... My gut says dirty dingo means stock manifolds.... I'm willing to bet JTR headers will work. I'd be interested to see if cx would sell their headers without the kit.....

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Z28 sits in my driveway now... It's way nicer than I expected, so much so I feel bad tearing it down to put in the Z. It sounds really nasty with long tubes and straight pipes into muffler..... Kinda sounds that make small children cry. I can't wait to get this thing in my Z with over 1400+\- less weight.

 

I know that feeling all to well.  I bought a 99 Firebird w/ 166K miles on it for $4200 mostly stock.  I had so much fun driving that car.  I could only imagine it in my Z.

 

Ended up selling it needing the money for another house.  One day....

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From the pics I have seen posted of the CX trans mount, As rebeckaz said unless your car is close to stock ride height you are going to have trouble running the exhaust. I personally like my exhaust to be tucked up into the floor as much as possible. I also have my z fairly low to the ground. If you run 15 inch wheels you are really going to be in trouble. The ground clearance I gained ftom putting 17's on my car made all the difference in the world. I still stand by the fact that diy mounts are the best. For several reasons.

 

1. If you do it right you have more clearance to run stuff in the engine bay.

2. You can run a low mount alternator without worrying about hitting the cross member if you shave the stock mountibg places off the cross member.

3. You can buy sanderson headers and bolt them to the engine, then fab your mounts. That way you know the alt, headers, and steering shaft clear before you make the first weld.

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Trackzspeed - The JCI stuff was originally developed on my car which is a '77 280Z.  He then modified it for the 240Z. The goal when we developed all the components was to have an installation where the engine was relatively easily accessible for maintenance and the gearshift came up in the right spot/  This again a little different for the 280 and the 240.

I also had an LS1 out of a '98 Camaro.  FWIW the 97/98 LS1's aren't quite as robust fans the later models and they have a different designed head/valve cover which is harder to find parts for.

Bottom line though, I have every component that JCI offers and I have as yet to have one fail in the 12 years and 37,000 miles I've driven the car.

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Trackzspeed - The JCI stuff was originally developed on my car which is a '77 280Z.  He then modified it for the 240Z. The goal when we developed all the components was to have an installation where the engine was relatively easily accessible for maintenance and the gearshift came up in the right spot/  This again a little different for the 280 and the 240.

I also had an LS1 out of a '98 Camaro.  FWIW the 97/98 LS1's aren't quite as robust fans the later models and they have a different designed head/valve cover which is harder to find parts for.

Bottom line though, I have every component that JCI offers and I have as yet to have one fail in the 12 years and 37,000 miles I've driven the car.

Thanks great input. Have you been happy with your 98 swap as a whole?

 

From the pics I have seen posted of the CX trans mount, As rebeckaz said unless your car is close to stock ride height you are going to have trouble running the exhaust. I personally like my exhaust to be tucked up into the floor as much as possible. I also have my z fairly low to the ground. If you run 15 inch wheels you are really going to be in trouble. The ground clearance I gained ftom putting 17's on my car made all the difference in the world. I still stand by the fact that diy mounts are the best. For several reasons.

 

1. If you do it right you have more clearance to run stuff in the engine bay.

2. You can run a low mount alternator without worrying about hitting the cross member if you shave the stock mountibg places off the cross member.

3. You can buy sanderson headers and bolt them to the engine, then fab your mounts. That way you know the alt, headers, and steering shaft clear before you make the first weld.

 

Agreed, that's why I'm doing as much research as possible and hopefully limit headaches for future swappers. Thanks.

I ran the camaro today at my local autoX and won my class. Had a blast all in all. Current plan is to campaign the camaro for this season while I tear down and prep the Z..... Goal is to prep car and collect parts necessary for the swap in the off season and never miss a race. CX has been great with info and claim to sell all or part of their kit depending on what I want.... My car will not sit lower than it does now and for racing applications my fairly low hanging Z exhaust has not been a problem, not sure is the cx exhaust hangs lower or not. Sure wish i knew if the sandersons worked with dirty dingo bolt ins.... time will tell. Thanks a bunch for the input..... Jim

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Trackzspeed - The JCI stuff was originally developed on my car which is a '77 280Z.  He then modified it for the 240Z. The goal when we developed all the components was to have an installation where the engine was relatively easily accessible for maintenance and the gearshift came up in the right spot/  This again a little different for the 280 and the 240.

I also had an LS1 out of a '98 Camaro.  FWIW the 97/98 LS1's aren't quite as robust fans the later models and they have a different designed head/valve cover which is harder to find parts for.

Bottom line though, I have every component that JCI offers and I have as yet to have one fail in the 12 years and 37,000 miles I've driven the car.

 

Yup, I run JCI stuff on my car. 950rwhp, fastest 1/4 mile times to date for an ls powered Z, and zero problems with the mounts. I did put a poly mount on the drtiver side of the car, but thats the only change I made.

 

The three things you listed as the pros of your custom kit Trackzspeed, are why I like the JCI stuff so much. I have enough clearance for a massive turbo, two wastegates, and two downpipes (One out the back, one dumps up front with a cover) I run a low mount (Camaro stock mounts) alternator without any issues, and I used to have Sanderson headers which fit perfectly, no mod was needed to steering or anything else to fit them. The only downside I see is that I wish they made a solid mount setup for people like me with stupid levels of HP.

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Trackzspeed - The JCI stuff was originally developed on my car which is a '77 280Z.  He then modified it for the 240Z. The goal when we developed all the components was to have an installation where the engine was relatively easily accessible for maintenance and the gearshift came up in the right spot/  This again a little different for the 280 and the 240.

I also had an LS1 out of a '98 Camaro.  FWIW the 97/98 LS1's aren't quite as robust fans the later models and they have a different designed head/valve cover which is harder to find parts for.

Bottom line though, I have every component that JCI offers and I have as yet to have one fail in the 12 years and 37,000 miles I've driven the car.

 

Yup, I run JCI stuff on my car. 950rwhp, fastest 1/4 mile times to date for an ls powered Z, and zero problems with the mounts. I did put a poly mount on the drtiver side of the car, but thats the only change I made.

 

The three things you listed as the pros of your custom kit Trackzspeed, are why I like the JCI stuff so much. I have enough clearance for a massive turbo, two wastegates, and two downpipes (One out the back, one dumps up front with a cover) I run a low mount (Camaro stock mounts) alternator without any issues, and I used to have Sanderson headers which fit perfectly, no mod was needed to steering or anything else to fit them. The only downside I see is that I wish they made a solid mount setup for people like me with stupid levels of HP.

 

 

Great information. Thanks.

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