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FEAL suspension/ welding lower perches


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so. my new feal coisl arrived saturday and i spent most of saturday measuring and some of sunday cutting. i have what i feel may may be a new good idea for welding on coil perches. im on my phone now but ill post a pic later. ok heres the idea. instead of seam welding at the bottom like ive seen so often. i started drilling holes evenly spaced an inch apart all around the lower perch

5/8" from the bottom. landing my drilled holes half way up on the cut portion of my original strut tube. once holes are drilled and perch is on

weld through the holes. im hoping this method has less chance of warping while welding.

 

any thoughts, opinions, concerns?

 

also not sure if this should be in the fab/weld section instead

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sorry to anyone that's been keeping an eye out too much coffee and whisky trying to get some work done on the car. in total rush mode to be ready for summer.

FEAL is good stuff from what ive seen so far. they will make coils for just about anything that can use em it seems. i spoke with odi bakchis owner to order them. He made it sound like they had done a few sets before. the kit is pretty nice. it comes with nice powder coated lower perches that you quickly cut,sand,grind, and weld.  they do have a nice inner ring machined into them. i just cut the og tubes down just below said machined ring.

 I'll swing by the shop on my way to work with my camera get some pics of em before they're all installed.  

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the cost was 1350 same as their off the shelf coils, cost me 1,405 to my door. i thought that was pretty cool that they dont charge extra for a "custom" coilover setup. 

if your car is already on the the ground setup and you have the ability to corner weight it they will build dampers custom to your setup.

 

without further a due or prcrastination from me lol

 

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you can somewhat see the machined step in the lower perch. this is a front and as you can tell no notch for the nipple on the knuckle so i made my own on the front that i have already done.

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yet to order the T3 bolt in camber plates so im still running stock top for the time being just to i can get cutting on the floors

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my weld job... i was freaking out about welding 400$ to not easily replaced pieces and having them end up crooked. so i hatched a plan and went over it with my welder friend. he assures me they will be plenty strong. im still a little nervous about it.

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rears. they're not the prettiest of welds but i burned em in good and hot. plenty of penetration.

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rear rates. my springs are way too stiff from what ive read here but its what odi suggested and was on the other sets that hes made. if theyre too rough ill change em up

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thought i had a pic of the front rates... guess not, theyre 700

pic of the only one bolted in the turd i mean car.

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little shop pic teaser. hope to have some funny vids form this place for yall this summer

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The setup looks cool. I am not a professional welder but I'm not to sure about those welds. From the pics it looks like you didn't clean up rust around where you welded. I don't think that's ok. Also if you left a 30-40mm lip on the original strut tube before you pressed in the threaded sleeve it would be pretty hard to weld it on crooked. I paid $50 to weld  all for corners after I prepped them. The bead is laid around the edge of where the tube meets the spindle. I would get a second opinion. Nice shop workspace, looks like you guys have a nice bit of space.

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I'd be surprised if you decide that 5kg/in is too stiff.....they should work well for any street use, and even some light track use.  (And Swift is good stuff, so they should last a good long time for you.)

 

Good luck with the rest of the build.

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Wait... your only attachment of the strut tube to the spindle are those "plug" welds?  If so.  I suggest you run a bead around the base of where the tube touches the spindle and hub casting.  From the factory the strut tubes are press fit and furnace brazed to the spindle and hub castings.  You want to duplicate that as best you can.  And if your front springs are really 700 lb. in. then, well, you will have lots if handing issues.

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392 up front and 280 out back in lbs. swift springs are measured in kilos. still a little stiffer than than what has generally been recommended here. this is the first car that ive ever really built, so anything is going to be better to me than lowered on stock struts,  slip over coils and 20yr old oe bushings. 

 

Jonc - i think since the coils arent really bolted in as of yet i will run some beads at the base if you say it needs done. i bow to your Z knowledge.   

Edited by andyhorror
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