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Please share your BC coilover feedback. -ride quality, comfort, impressions


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In regard to camber? I usually only run about 1-1.5 degrees so it is adequate for me. Given that you would have to remove it to adjust the camber anyways, the extra adjustment from the 4 bolt did not appeal to me. I have adjustable lower control arms if I want to add more camber, I suppose if you were really desperate you could also oblong the holes for the old school camber adjustment as well.

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I bought them through a friend who is a vendor for bc stuff. Jpn charges 170 for shipping which I know they are drop shipped anyways (free shipping from the vendor) so it's pure profit on their part. Knowing that agitated me enough to not buy from them. I paid less than their price by a decent bit AND didn't have to pay shipping  :rolleyes:

 

I dont charge for shipping at all on these unless your in Canada, Please tell me the name of the shop so I can call them myself.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Rears installed, damping feels pretty good and the ride is really compliant, I'm excited to dial these in.

 

One thing of note is that these come with the bolts at max camber. I installed these with adjustable arms and added a little track width so I ended up at way too much camber almost negative 4* out back. I'm going to have to adjust the tops to neutralize quite a bit of that, I was wondering if anyone found a nice way to go about it with complete disassembly? I'm hoping once you undo the spindle you can lower it enough to adjust the top without pulling the axles.

 

And the extreme low kit goes stupid low. I can barely make it over a 2 inch lip before my exhaust which is really tucked compared to the factory one starts scraping, and I can still drop it almost 3 more inches.

 

AB19AD9E-C7B4-4DD0-8CBF-8DD66D5BE50A_zps

You could probably tuck rim if the wheel wells didn't get in the way, but at that point your differential and front cross member would be dragging on the floor. At my current ride height I can barely slip a jack in the front or rear. 

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Here is my 240z with the extreme low coilovers adjusted all the way down. Note that my arches are mounted really high so it doesn't look as low as it is. I would recommend the extreme lows for a 240z as I could raise the car up 2 inches from where it currently is. Wheel/tires are 17x9.5 -19 offset 245/40-17

 

I have 7kg/6kg springs front/rear and the ride quality is nice and not too harsh for a daily driver. 

 

2mb9sy.jpg

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This is bottomed out adjustment wise against the lower spring mounting nuts. Rear camber is adjusted out all the way in the rear. The dampening adjustment knobs had to be taken off to adjust camber all the way out as they hit the factory sheetmetal. It still has negative camber even tho I've tried to adjust it all the way out so I'm going to have to go to adjustable rear lower control arms to correct this issue. I'm likely going to put some hyperco or eibach springs on these dampers at some point as an upgrade. They are of better quality when compared to swift springs and you can get a set of them for ~$240+shipping. I need to check if going to a shorter spring will allow me to have some height adjustment to lower the car further in the front. I'm not sure how much additional distance I have until the strut bottoms out in the weld on threaded collars.  

Edited by JustinOlson
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Hmm I still have about 3 inches to go then and I would be scraping the floor by that point if I didn't have bigger frame rails.

 

By all the way out, you mean you pushed the plates all the way positive right? I figured that would be the case. I have way too much camber and I doubt that I will be able to bring it back into line with the small amount of adjustment.

 

Good tip on the adjuster hitting the sheet metal, I'll have to clearance that while I have it out.

 

Just an FYI, an adjustable LCA is really only going to help add additional negative camber. To get positive camber you would have to pull the arms shorter then stock and at that point you would run into problems with the axles binding. Most likely the solution would be the 4 bolt camber tops or pushing the camber top further outboard.

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Just an FYI, an adjustable LCA is really only going to help add additional negative camber. To get positive camber you would have to pull the arms shorter then stock and at that point you would run into problems with the axles binding. Most likely the solution would be the 4 bolt camber tops or pushing the camber top further outboard.

 

As the arms get closer to parallel to the ground, it pushes the suspension out. That is why the camber plate is maxed out to the outside. When the control arms are shortened, the axles would go back to the length they were at stock ride height. I just wish there was a way to retain that stock control arm angle so they still camber out when the suspension compresses.

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Hi guys, great observations and feedback on your installs! I see that you're running into a bit too much negative camber? Do you think the 4 bolt tops would have helped to dial in that negative camber a bit? 

 

Rears installed, damping feels pretty good and the ride is really compliant, I'm excited to dial these in.

 

One thing of note is that these come with the bolts at max camber. I installed these with adjustable arms and added a little track width so I ended up at way too much camber almost negative 4* out back. I'm going to have to adjust the tops to neutralize quite a bit of that, I was wondering if anyone found a nice way to go about it with complete disassembly? I'm hoping once you undo the spindle you can lower it enough to adjust the top without pulling the axles.

 

And the extreme low kit goes stupid low. I can barely make it over a 2 inch lip before my exhaust which is really tucked compared to the factory one starts scraping, and I can still drop it almost 3 more inches.

 

AB19AD9E-C7B4-4DD0-8CBF-8DD66D5BE50A_zps

You could probably tuck rim if the wheel wells didn't get in the way, but at that point your differential and front cross member would be dragging on the floor. At my current ride height I can barely slip a jack in the front or rear. 

 

 

This is bottomed out adjustment wise against the lower spring mounting nuts. Rear camber is adjusted out all the way in the rear. The dampening adjustment knobs had to be taken off to adjust camber all the way out as they hit the factory sheetmetal. It still has negative camber even tho I've tried to adjust it all the way out so I'm going to have to go to adjustable rear lower control arms to correct this issue. I'm likely going to put some hyperco or eibach springs on these dampers at some point as an upgrade. They are of better quality when compared to swift springs and you can get a set of them for ~$240+shipping. I need to check if going to a shorter spring will allow me to have some height adjustment to lower the car further in the front. I'm not sure how much additional distance I have until the strut bottoms out in the weld on threaded collars.  

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4 bolts give you supposedly one or so degree of additional camber adjustment. I'm at about -1* now so I am pretty happy with how it sits.

 

Mine shipped with the camber adjustment on max negative camber. With the max negative camber setting, the adjustment knob sits dead middle in the hole for the shock in the rear of the car, I believe it is similar in the front. As Justin said to gain more positive camber you have to either remove the knob or notch the shock tower shock hole outboard. I decided to notch the shock hole, I removed basically the raised portion and clearanced the side for the knob to sit without interference, the knob sits a little above the shock hole, but it makes it easier to install if you clearance it to the knob instead of the thinner nut, it also allows you to tighten the shock nut with without having to drop the entire upright.

 

These are very inconvenient to adjust camber. You either have to take the rear suspension out of the car, or disconnect the spindle pin and lower it enough to get out of the shock tower. This is the price we pay for bolt in installation. I think this is to be expected.

 

With the camber adjustment moved to max positive, I gained enough to have a decent camber setting. My alignment is still off and I need to address a few minor things, but I took it out today. Ride is really compliant, I expected it to be harsher, but it is comparable to my old spring and shock just less movement. Also no noise from the front or the back. We even took a corner a little hard and the suspension loaded up nicely. I still need to get an alignment and address some other unrelated faults so I will have my in-depth review down the road.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I don't see the "bolt on" property of BC coilovers as a value or a reason to buy. You still have to get the threaded sleeves welded so it's still not a bolt on part.

Went with BCs because they're a well established company that makes good parts. My strut towers have already been hacked on numerous times. So i could weld on a camber plate or go this route which will allow me to go with stock setup if i choose to do so at some point. 

If anyone would like the cut pattern for the hole in the center i can provide a template for cutting the stock towers. 

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I wouldn't mind having the file. Or posting it up could be helpful for others. I wonder if the stock tower is thick enough with the material removed away like that. I've seen others cut slots to adjust camber between the bolt holes just to access the allen head bolts. Pretty cool regardless. 

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