Dat73z Posted July 2, 2015 Author Share Posted July 2, 2015 (edited) Someone commented on this thread earlier that lubrication goes a long way. Any comments on that? Maybe I just need to oil the heck out of the motor/head and try turning again? Still trying to avoid tearing everything back down. Probably the beer talking but I guess on the upshot if I need to drop the pan again I can take the opportunity to pull the crank, hone the cylinders, and throw on a ported head. Edited July 2, 2015 by Dat73z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted July 2, 2015 Share Posted July 2, 2015 Undo the stuff you did between works and doesn't work. Damper pulley, oil pan, whatever else. That's what I'd do. Damper still looks most likely since it's on the crankshaft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dat73z Posted July 2, 2015 Author Share Posted July 2, 2015 Alright, going to really zip off the crank pulley now. Probably pull the timing cover too and catch a movie inbetween while I'm at it. Will report back soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dat73z Posted July 2, 2015 Author Share Posted July 2, 2015 Gah, pulled the crank pulley off which was nice and easy since I lubed it all up and threaded the bolt and washer back on then hit it with the torque wrench at 100 ft-lb. No dice. Woodruff key looks as I left it - great. Gotta start pulling more things off later in the week but need to be up early to conduct business. Thanks again to all who have contributed their thoughts. Really hoping I don't need to rebuild the motor here, just want to get it running again and go racing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seattlejester Posted July 2, 2015 Share Posted July 2, 2015 Oil does go a long way, especially if you don't have anything in the motor like assembly grease, if it is really that dry and you have been cranking it then you have probably run the oil pump dry as well. Before you jump ship try adding some oil and see if it will move. Then it is as NewZed says, you have to go backwards until you can get the engine to move again assuming it isn't something that broke or seized which would mean until you took everything apart you wouldn't find it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dat73z Posted July 2, 2015 Author Share Posted July 2, 2015 Any advice on oiling the mains without dropping the pan? I was just planning on dumping a bunch of oil onto the cylinder head and timing chain area with the valve cover off. Also I just picked up a high resolution borescope. Figured I need to get smarter about this and I've always wanted one for auto/bike work. Am going to peek into each cylinder, valves, into the oilpan/crank counterweights, etc. Should be able to report back with some interesting pictures and figure out what's causing this without tearing the entire engine down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seattlejester Posted July 2, 2015 Share Posted July 2, 2015 If you pour it into the valve train it will make its way to the mains, the oil pump will distribute it through the block if you can get it to circulate. If worse comes to worse and it doesn't do anything, you can just collect the oil in a clean pan and plan on reusing it if it comes out clean. I mean short of a valve dropping into the cylinder I can't really think of how the engine would get stuck cylinder wise with the spark plugs out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dat73z Posted July 2, 2015 Author Share Posted July 2, 2015 (edited) Yep, just checked the cylinders, valves, and timing chain area with a borescope - everything looks fine without obstruction. Cylinder walls looks great with the crosshatching still present. Would share some pictures but apparently I need a micro SD card to do that. Going to take a quick look around the mains next then start dumping oil all over the engine! Also oil pump is new and I haven't even primed the motor yet. I should probably do that next. Edited July 2, 2015 by Dat73z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted July 2, 2015 Share Posted July 2, 2015 You didn't fabricate some sort of flywheel locking device in order to torque the bolts did you and forget to remove it? You said "lock flywheel". Leave something in the oil pan? Get the oil pickup tube jammed in the crankshaft? You're looking where no work has been done. 1) Drop oil pan 2) Impact gun + thread on pulley puller to remove crank pulley bolt + washer 3) Remove front timing cover (anything else while the cover was off?) 4) Replace crank snout seal (seal installation screwed up somehow?) 5) Bolt front timing cover back in place with new gaskets (something got jammed?) 6) Bolt in AZC oil pan with new gasket (has it been removed and things checked yet?) 7) Lock flywheel and torque crank pulley bolt + washer back to ~100 ft-lb with loctite blue (flywheel locking method?) You have an odd situation... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dat73z Posted July 2, 2015 Author Share Posted July 2, 2015 (edited) HOLY SH)(*&)*&!! I just got the engine to turn 1/2 turn then it stopped. Soaked cylinders with penetrant and valvetrain in penetrant then glopped in a quart of 10W40. Let it sit for 10mins then hit it with a torque wrench at 100ft-lb on the crank pulley. I guess it really did seize up hard over the last couple of weeks. Going to keep soaking it until I can rotate to TDC freely. Borescope revealed that crank counterweights and pan were clear of obstructions. I locked the flywheel with a prybar and bolt as my friend torqued the crank pulley bolt to ~100ft-lb. Thanks again to all who have commented on this thread. I've built motors that sat outside for months that still turned over freely by hand when installed. I guess that's what 43 years will do. Probably need a rebuild eventually but until then this motor is getting run hard. Not out of the woods yet but getting close. Will update shortly. Edited July 2, 2015 by Dat73z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dat73z Posted July 2, 2015 Author Share Posted July 2, 2015 OK, so the motor will rotate by hand 1/2 turn either way freely now (CW or CCW) then it locks up solid. There was definitely some sort of corrosion issue going on, but the penetrant and oil resolved that. Given the condition of the valvetrain and cylinders this leads me to believe something else is locking up. Time to investigate further. Thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dat73z Posted July 3, 2015 Author Share Posted July 3, 2015 Mission accomplished. I guess it was corrosion after all. Rocked the motor back and forth CW and CCW until it broke free. Will check timing now and ensure all is good. Thanks again all, I guess sometimes it's just the simple things. Kept second guessing everything since so many parts went into this refresh that everything was questionable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seattlejester Posted July 3, 2015 Share Posted July 3, 2015 (edited) Glad you got it sorted. I went through a similar panic when I cleaned up a diff, I thought I seized it real bad. I had cleaned it out with brake clean and such prior to working on it so a couple squirts of oil and working it back and forth and it spun great. Make sure to prime the oil pump and such before running the motor, and with all the penetrant (I imagine WD40) and all you put in there, make sure to do an oil change soon. Edited July 3, 2015 by seattlejester Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted July 3, 2015 Share Posted July 3, 2015 Seems like a lot of rust, considering the number of times you rotated things to make sure they weren't bound. Maybe you got lucky. Or maybe your wrench was set to inch-pounds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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