TrikeZ Posted October 22, 2015 Share Posted October 22, 2015 I finally got around to installing my 1 inch wilwood MC today in my 73 Z. I have already put together my s12w calipers and rotor assembly and installed on car. I went to bleed the lines and everything and I seem to not be holding pressure in the front. At first,While holding down the brake pedal, the brakes hold well and you can not turn the rotor. But after a few minutes, I try the same thing and I am able to turn the rotors while the brake pedal is pressed.I have bled the entire brake system from right rear, left rear, right front, and then to left front, about 3 times now and the samething keeps happening. There are NO leaks anywhere, so Im not sure what is going on, im thinking that I may just have air somewhere and its not wanting to come out. I am beginning to get frustrated as I just want to drive my car already but this is holding me back, even though it might be a very simple thing that I may have skipped over. If anyone has any input or advice, please I would be more than grateful for the help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
malibud Posted October 22, 2015 Share Posted October 22, 2015 Did you bench bleed the MC before installing ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miles Posted October 22, 2015 Share Posted October 22, 2015 IF after you have bled the MC (procedure in brake forum), and you have bled the rest of the system, press and hold the brake pedal. If it sinks then the MC is leaking internally. If it just feels spongy then there is still air in the system. Not to scare you, but I had two Wilwood 1 inch MCs fail out of the box. They would not hold pressure. Did you adjust the MC push rod? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrikeZ Posted October 29, 2015 Author Share Posted October 29, 2015 Resolved! No more air, I bled everything with a vacuum extractor and everything worked fine. I drove the car this morning and I believe that my front driver side caliper is not releasing, I got home feeling a drag and some smoke coming from behind the wheel. I did not get to fully investigate as I had to leave for work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted October 29, 2015 Share Posted October 29, 2015 If the caliper is OK when you get home, you may have an incorrectly adjusted master cyl push rod. If you adjust the rod out too far or adjust out all of the slack in the pedal, it is possible to partially or completely cover the port to the reservoir. When this happens the fluid heats and expands as you drive and basically the farther you drive the more the brakes get applied. Once it cools down the fluid contracts and the caliper won't be locked on anymore. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrikeZ Posted November 1, 2015 Author Share Posted November 1, 2015 If the caliper is OK when you get home, you may have an incorrectly adjusted master cyl push rod. If you adjust the rod out too far or adjust out all of the slack in the pedal, it is possible to partially or completely cover the port to the reservoir. When this happens the fluid heats and expands as you drive and basically the farther you drive the more the brakes get applied. Once it cools down the fluid contracts and the caliper won't be locked on anymore. This is most likely my problem, it locked on me again today on a cruise around my street to test them. I had to adjust my pushrod when I installed the new MC. when I push the brake pedal there is VERY LITTLE to no free play. I had to have my brother come pull me around the corner home. The pedal was VERY hard and barely moved at all after it locked. I could not move the car forward or reverse under its own power due to the brakes holding. I will adjust my pushrod as soon as I get a chance. Thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miles Posted November 1, 2015 Share Posted November 1, 2015 I always carry a wrench that fits the bleeders on the MC when road testing just for this situation. When the brakes start to seize from having the push rod too long you can unlock the brakes by opening the bleed screws on the MC to relieve the pressure so you can limp home to readjust the push rod in small increments. You may know this, but you do not have to disconnect the MC to adjust the push rod. There is enough flex in the hard lines to pull the MC out and push it aside to access the push rod. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrikeZ Posted November 2, 2015 Author Share Posted November 2, 2015 I always carry a wrench that fits the bleeders on the MC when road testing just for this situation. When the brakes start to seize from having the push rod too long you can unlock the brakes by opening the bleed screws on the MC to relieve the pressure so you can limp home to readjust the push rod in small increments. You may know this, but you do not have to disconnect the MC to adjust the push rod. There is enough flex in the hard lines to pull the MC out and push it aside to access the push rod. Thanks for the advice. Only wish I knew about the MC bleeders earlier, I didn't of think of it. I will be carrying a wrench set in the car from now on. Thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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