Mikelly Posted August 31, 2000 Share Posted August 31, 2000 ...and what I now have is 74 primary jets, 79 secondary jets, Power valve is a 6.5, and my vacuum is now a steady 11HG. I have the initial timing at 16 degrees, with another 21 degrees coming in by 3000RPms. The springs in the distributor are light blue on one side and light silver on the other side. I have about 1.5 turns from all the way in on the metering jets so far. It sounds great and with the larger primary jets I am no longer getting pinging.. Interesting, but it revs SO MUCH BETTER with 16 degrees timing. My idle is right at 1100RPMs. If it ever quits raining I'll take her out for a spin and see what happens at part throttle! I'm still gonna buy an Edelbrock unit if I can sell my carb.. Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MYRON Posted August 31, 2000 Share Posted August 31, 2000 Half throttle? Yeah right!!!!!.... It sounds like yours is running great. Are you getting any hesitation if you rap on it real quick? and what distributor are you using?... Is your vaccumme reading in gear or in park?... I have some axles coming in tommorrow and will be testing this weekend... With our engine combos being so close i think i will set mine up like you did and see what happens.... My brother may be interested in you carb stuff..... What was causing all you fuel pressure problems?? Myron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted August 31, 2000 Author Share Posted August 31, 2000 When I rap on the throttle, it revs extremely fast without hesitation. The throttle response is increadible with the added 2 degrees of initial timing. I'm running an MSD billet distributor with mechanical advance and my vacuum reading is with the car in neutral (I'm running a T56). I'm hoping the part throttle surge I was feeling will go away with these mods. As for what was causing the problems with fuel pressure, I still don't get anything above 6 psi once the motor is warm, but what I was told to focus on is the volume of fuel, and not line pressure. My bowls never empty, so that is a good tihng. What we think is that the lines (1/2inch) are causing the guage not to read well, causing me to think the pump/ regulator/ delivery is an issue, when in fact it wasn't. Heat was a slight problem, but I got a heat shield for the carb, and relocated the lines to the outside of the engine bay. Now the metering blocks a re so cold that I get cold condensation on them when the motor is at full operating temp. Tell your brother he is welcome to it, as all parts are like new and the carb was completely gone through just to make sure nothing was wrong with it internally that might cause some of my problems. I just don't want to have to tune it with the weather changes and such. Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MYRON Posted August 31, 2000 Share Posted August 31, 2000 Sounds good to me, I will re-jet my carb and powervalve and check the timing as well.... My brother is checking his finances to see if he can squeeze out the money for the carb... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Scott Posted August 31, 2000 Share Posted August 31, 2000 Its amazing how much more initial timing a big cammed engine likes. It really wakes them up. Are either of your cams advanced, or were they installed "straight up". I know someday another V8 will be in my future, so I want to hear every detail about the rides! ...rain rain go away JS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MYRON Posted August 31, 2000 Share Posted August 31, 2000 Mine was installed straight up. I hear that most hot rodders like to set them at 6 degrees advanced.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted September 1, 2000 Author Share Posted September 1, 2000 Mine was degreed in but I don't know what the advance was on it... Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted September 1, 2000 Share Posted September 1, 2000 I degreed in my cam at 4 advanced. But if you look at the cam card (pretty neat - Comp Cams has the spec cards for all of their cams on their web site (http://www.compcams.com), you see that when you install it a 106 degrees intake center line, it's already 4 degrees advanced from true "straight up". So my question is, should I retard it back to 2 degrees advanced (6 degrees from true straight up) or leave it at the 4 (or 8 straigth up)? I installed a quick change timing chain cover to be able to change the cam advance without upsetting the oil pan seal. It's not much work to drop the accesory belts, pulleys, water pump and timing cover to get to the parts. Put the dial indicator on the valve spring retainer, degree wheel on the harmonic balacer, and goto town. Once I get it on the road, I plan on including cam advance as a tuning variable. My (solid flat tappet) cam: (remember, this is a 327, so this cam is a bit "bigger" in duration to it than it would be to a 350 or 383) ------------------ Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project - pparaska@home.com">pparaska@home.com - Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Scott Posted September 1, 2000 Share Posted September 1, 2000 Pete, many people advance their cams 4 degrees to give them more low end power. This of course is a small sacrifice from the "other end" Since long duration cams are somewhat lazy off the line the 4 degree advance helps out a little. Comp cams, by adding the 4 degrees into the grind eliminates the hassle of adding an offset bushing or using an offset key on the crank. When you install it straight up, dot to dot on the gears, it will be like advancing it 4 degrees. It sounds like you have 8 degrees in your installation. I'd try the 4 degrees first. Most applications I've run into use the straight up or 4 degrees advanced. I think the 8 degree will hurt your top end. The 327 is a top end performer. The difference in grinds here is interesting. My little ol' 262 cid has: .474/483 lift 228/232 duration @ .050, lobe seperation 114. I also had the 4 degree advance in the grind. (When I degreed it it was a little closer to 3 degrees.) I really wish I had that quick change timing cover. This allows one mor way to really tune in the engine. JS [This message has been edited by John Scott (edited September 01, 2000).] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyind Posted September 2, 2000 Share Posted September 2, 2000 Learned a long time ago with my 67 Camaro with a 312 deg cam to dial it in by ear. I built the car at a retired Mech shop. He would set the timing then hit the gas until there was no ping and it had good low to high rev. Then put a timing light on it. This guy was very good... Not only that anytime I changed out the dual points (early 70's high tech... LOL) just check or reset to the same mark lock down dist. Car ran 11's all day long with a 7200 redline... FYI Your motor will not lie to ya, it will let you know what it likes the best.... ------------------ Z U V8ter http://cyind.com Rspencer@satx.rr.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted September 2, 2000 Author Share Posted September 2, 2000 Well the power valve did the trick and most of my tuning woes are solved. I'm gonna keep the carb for now. I think as long as I'm learning how to tune it, and if I can get it right, then that in its self is a good thing. I'm gonna go to Borders and buy a book this weekend. I drove the car this evening and even my girlfriend noticed how much smoother it accelerates. I think I still have a slight stumble below 1600 in 6th gear, but I don't want to sacrefice top end for much more low rpm cruising. I'll smooth out what I have and see where I am in the next week or so. Hopefully the rain will go away and I can put some serious miles on it!!! Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted September 3, 2000 Share Posted September 3, 2000 John, thanks for that tip. Yep, I agree that since Comp Cams already had 4 degrees in the "dot to dot" way that they placed the dowel in that cam it would be 4 degrees advanced that way. I added another 4 degrees. I'm going to take that out now. ------------------ Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project - pparaska@home.com">pparaska@home.com - Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MYRON Posted September 3, 2000 Share Posted September 3, 2000 Mike, you say the power valve did the trick.. By blocking it off? or changing to a different one?... I still cant get rid of my hesitation when you goose it. You can goose it only opening the primarys nad it fall flat on its face, but when you get into the secondaries it really come to life. I tried changing the springs on the advance and it didnt help(MSD Pro Billet HEI). I am now being told to make the disty an "non advance" unit and just lock it down at 35-36 degrees. I have not changed the cams that actuate the squirters yet because the local auto parts house doesnt carry them.. I just read an article in CHP about a 377&383 build up and they are using very similar parts as we are and they have it jetted at 78-86 but no mention on the Power valve.. both the engins are 450 HP on the dyno... Stumped Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted September 4, 2000 Share Posted September 4, 2000 Myron, have you tried enlarging the acclerator pump to 50cc's, changed the accelerator pump cam, or tried larger squirters? Those things usually are what hi-po engines need for tip in response. Sorry if you knew this and tried it already, I can't remember your set up exactly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Scott Posted September 4, 2000 Share Posted September 4, 2000 Ditto...What Pete said. An immediate stumble is usually caused by the wrong squirter, if it leaves hard then stumbles a little after you get on it is usually running out of pumpshot. I've seen the fixed timing setting. Sounds like you hang around some WOT diehard dragracers. JS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted September 5, 2000 Author Share Posted September 5, 2000 The only thing I changed on my setup is the powervalve, going to a larger unit and re-adjusting the butterflys to come in better. My squirters are size .31 std and my cam is pink. Not sure which cc AC pumps I have.. I don't think locking the distributor is the answer if you plan to drive the car part throttle around town... Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MYRON Posted September 5, 2000 Share Posted September 5, 2000 Well, I think I finally got it tuned!.. After all the jacking with it I decided to take it off and go through it.. I changed the power valve to one that comes into play at 8.5 vaccume. I jetted it at 74 & 82 and re-adjusted the squirter on the primary side. It seems that my problems were on the adjustment of the squirter. The lock nut and spring that keep the slack out of the accelerator pump arm were way out of adjustment not allowing enough fuel to be sucked back into the pump, causing a huge lack of fuel on the "squirt". I also changed the springs in the disty. It is running much better than in did on my 0-60 4.5 sec run, but i am affraid to hammer on it right now. I will be moving soon plus my wife is due in 3 weeks and the last thing i want is to move with a dead car! Thanks for all the advice Myron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Scott Posted September 6, 2000 Share Posted September 6, 2000 Myron, can't wait to hear how it runs now. Three weeks? Congratulations early! Do you know what "model" your're getting? JS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MYRON Posted September 6, 2000 Share Posted September 6, 2000 Thanks, It is one with an "outie"... I cant wait to really hammer on it. I will really have to learn how to drive the car now. There is a really cool "s" curve near my house that i was humming around after i got it tuned, I was in 2nd gear and layed into it as i was coming around the curve and it broke them loose and tried to come around on me.. Myron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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