CRAracer05 Posted January 9, 2016 Share Posted January 9, 2016 (edited) I am starting to plan my engine build and would like some input on my initial parts selection/configuration I am thinking. I have two N42/N42 engines to pick from. My thoughts are as follows: Block Cleaned, bored, honed, new freeze plugs, ARP main bolts, ITM flat top pistons .30" ovesize (already purchased) Head Surface, valves unshrouded, mild porting. (*considering trying to weld up the chambers with a MIG spool gun) Cam (Either a Schneider 284-92F or a 290F) ARP Head bolts Felpro Head Gasket Fuel MSA triple Webers 45mm Ignition Considering a MSD Street Fire ignition box or 6AL Considering also some kind of modified distributor or Mallory Unilite distributor to control advance, Edited January 9, 2016 by CRAracer05 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted January 9, 2016 Share Posted January 9, 2016 Flat tops with the stock N42 head gets you around 10:1 CR I think. With a shave, even higher, Welded chambers, way up there, need race fuel. We don't use kings in America. But, at least, you'll need a distributor to distribute spark. Core. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CRAracer05 Posted January 9, 2016 Author Share Posted January 9, 2016 Flat tops with the stock N42 head gets you around 10:1 CR I think. With a shave, even higher, Welded chambers, way up there, need race fuel. We don't use kings in America. But, at least, you'll need a distributor to distribute spark. Core. Ya king was bad spelling correction, I fixed it now. Just wondering what route to go on the distributor. I would like to go the cheapest simplest route. Whether it be a modified distributor, 280z or 280zx, or the Mallory. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that the combination of welded chambers, big cam and 93 octane pump gas will be good without detonation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ttodhunter Posted January 9, 2016 Share Posted January 9, 2016 I built my N42/N42 with flat tops, ported head and 270/280 .464" cam. Calculated compression was at 10:1. With SDS programmable fuel/ignition, I was still having detonation issues and had to back the timing out quite a bit. Power-wise, it was decent, but not what I wanted and I ended up lowering compression and putting a turbo on. Lots of people say "just drop an L28ET in" and I wish that's what I would have done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted January 10, 2016 Share Posted January 10, 2016 Just wondering what route to go on the distributor. I would like to go the cheapest simplest route. welded chambers, big cam crossed fingers You should do more reading, thinking, and calculating. Spending big money on some parts then using cheap parts to run them is bad logic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CRAracer05 Posted January 10, 2016 Author Share Posted January 10, 2016 You should do more reading, thinking, and calculating. Spending big money on some parts then using cheap parts to run them is bad logic. I have done a lot of both, but there is so much conflicting information out there. A handful of people say they never experienced detonation with flat tops and a large cam,because of the dynamic compression loss. My plan is to run a large cam and weld the chambers to further reduce the chances of detonation. Also, on the the distributor when I say the cheapest route I should have elaborated and explained that I would prefer to go with a modified Nissan distributor (re-curved / removed vacuum advance) than to fork out the cash for the Mallory unit. I have also been reading the post on here regarding cooling modifications to the head in order to help reduce ping/detonation issues common on L-series engines. This also brings up the possible use of different coolants that may help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CRAracer05 Posted January 10, 2016 Author Share Posted January 10, 2016 An update of what I intend to build.... N42/N42 engine as follows: Block Cleaned, bored, honed, new freeze plugs, ARP main bolts, ITM flat top pistons .30" oversize (already purchased) Glyptal coating Rods smoothed to remove casting, shot peened, balanced, ARP bolts Head Surface job, valves un-shrouded, mild porting, welded chambers (per Honsowetz book) Cam (Either a Schneider 284-92F or a 290F) (reduced dynamic compression ratio) ARP Head bolts Felpro Head Gasket Fuel MSA triple Webers 45mm (per Honsowetz book) 93 octane pump gas 12 Gal fuel cell Edlebrock pump and regulator Ignition 83' 280zx dizzy, re-curved, vacuum advance removed (question whether to run the the E12-80 or MSD box) 280zx alternator Exhaust MSA 6-2 ceramic headers MSA twice pipes exhaust Cooling 280z OEM radiator Electric fan EVANS waterless coolant or HKS D1 high-pressure raditor cap (15.6psi) Drivetrain California Datsun lightened & resurfaced OEM flywheel 280z/280z 5-speed R200 with OBX LSD (3.90 or 4.11 gears) I would be doing all of the work besides machining. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted January 10, 2016 Share Posted January 10, 2016 I used to make these kinds of list. Class was too boring. Read, don't browse, through that head-cooling thread. You don't have "drilling the head for balanced coolant flow" on the list. Seems like it fits in there. Be careful with those California Datsun purchases. Used to be Datsun Parts LLC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CRAracer05 Posted January 11, 2016 Author Share Posted January 11, 2016 I used to make these kinds of list. Class was too boring. Read, don't browse, through that head-cooling thread. You don't have "drilling the head for balanced coolant flow" on the list. Seems like it fits in there. Be careful with those California Datsun purchases. Used to be Datsun Parts LLC. Anymore I have so much stuff going that if I don't make lists like this I forget things. I have been reading the cooling mod thread, and just made it to the end tonight. I saved Tony D's summary on page 23 to a word document, and I also saved the photo of the block port where the plug is to be installed, and the photo of where to drill the head. I will at least do this mod on #5 & #6. My power levels shouldn't be high enough to do #3 & #4, but compression will be high so at least doing #4 might not be a bad idea. I appreciate the tip on California Datsun as I hadn't read any bad reviews on them yet. I can try to find some local to machine my flywheel as I have the drawing of where to properly remove material to lighten it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CRAracer05 Posted January 15, 2016 Author Share Posted January 15, 2016 I talked to Advanced Distributors and he recommended just going with a re-curved points distributor, or a matchbox second if I really want an electronic ignition. I haven't really heard of anyone running a re-curved points distributor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted January 16, 2016 Share Posted January 16, 2016 It's not uncommon in the racing world. Why would you go with points if you can have electronic? Make a spreadsheet and put some cost estimates in for each item. The sum will be interesting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CRAracer05 Posted January 17, 2016 Author Share Posted January 17, 2016 It's not uncommon in the racing world. Why would you go with points if you can have electronic? Make a spreadsheet and put some cost estimates in for each item. The sum will be interesting. Not sure either, but my plan is to get a matchbox dizzy and have it re-curved. I try not to do that anymore, or I will be tempted to just buy a newer car that doesn't need as much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CRAracer05 Posted January 17, 2016 Author Share Posted January 17, 2016 Any opinions on the two Schneider cams am either the 284-92F or a 290F? I read a couple places that the L-series engines really like the split cams such as the 284-92F, but the 290F is more common. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Datsun#1 Posted January 19, 2016 Share Posted January 19, 2016 Schneider cams have a problem with cam lobes going bad.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CRAracer05 Posted January 20, 2016 Author Share Posted January 20, 2016 Schneider cams have a problem with cam lobes going bad.. First I have heard of this? Schneider said they can regrind my factory cam and it is a better material than what they make new cams out of. I was planning on going with the 284-92F cam after talking with them this week. Still not sure on whether to go new or a regrind though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Datsun#1 Posted January 20, 2016 Share Posted January 20, 2016 Go with comp,Isk or crane cams ....trust me..went through 2 Schneider cams..one i installed,the other done by a competent shop...still using there springs and other valve train components with no complainants..but there cams are soft.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Datsun#1 Posted January 20, 2016 Share Posted January 20, 2016 Go with comp,Isk or crane cams ....trust me..went through 2 Schneider cams..one i installed,the other done by a competent shop...still using there springs and other valve train components with no complainants..but there cams are soft.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Datsun#1 Posted January 20, 2016 Share Posted January 20, 2016 Im currently running comp cam grind. 295Durr/ 560lift. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CRAracer05 Posted January 22, 2016 Author Share Posted January 22, 2016 I guess I am just going to go with a regrind to make sure I don't get a "soft" cam. They are cheaper anyway, and Schneider admitted they are a better metal than their new cores. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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