shri2222 Posted February 13, 2016 Share Posted February 13, 2016 Hey all, I was looking for some advice. My rear drums worked perfectly till one day the driver rear locked up. I can not get it free. I cracked the line loose to release any fluid pressure, nothing, i tapped it with a mallet, nothing. I am new to drums, I honestly hate them. I felt along back for a opening looking to maybe move the self adjuster but I needed feel any opening top or bottom. Thanks, Shri Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted February 13, 2016 Share Posted February 13, 2016 The adjuster hole is at the bottom. Put some penetrating oil around the hub/drum interface. Then use a heavy rubber dead low hammer to strike HARD on the drum at the point where the flat face rolls toward the fins. Right at that rolled portion. Hit it like you hate it. What have you got to lose? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miles Posted February 13, 2016 Share Posted February 13, 2016 You are going to need a 240Z/280Z Haines manual or the factory service manual to help you with this. This is a common problem with Z drums. Suggest that you spend some time searching in the brake forum as I recall many treads dealing with this problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted February 13, 2016 Share Posted February 13, 2016 (edited) Just hit the damn thing harder. Edited February 13, 2016 by RebekahsZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted February 13, 2016 Share Posted February 13, 2016 My rear drums worked perfectly till one day the driver rear locked up. I can not get it free. I cracked the line loose to release any fluid pressure, nothing, Most of the advice you'll find is for brake drums that have rusted on after sitting for a long time. Yours sounds like a mechanical problem with the parking brake mechanism. They don't rust overnight unless you drove through the ocean during the day. Study the Brake chapter of the FSM and examine the parking brake parts. No use beating the crap out of things until you're sure the parking brake isn't stuck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miles Posted February 13, 2016 Share Posted February 13, 2016 Use a hammer as the last resort. Take NewZed's advice. It is likely that the parking brake adjusting mechanism has a problem. Using a Haines or Factory Service Manual you can locate the adjuster and back the adjuster out to relax the brake shoes. Then the drum should just pull off. You could also Google "how to adjust 280z rear brakes" or some words like that. There is probably a Youtube video that will show you how to do drum brakes. Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted February 13, 2016 Share Posted February 13, 2016 Actually, considering that he said that one day it locked up, implying that he was rolling and locked the tire, it could be that something broke inside, like a shoe retainer, and jammed between the shoe and the drum. So, in the end, unless the adjustment hole is in the right spot, RebekahsZ's advice may be the only way. Or, rolling backward to unjam it might work. I'd start it up, and see if some reverse action would at least get the hole in the right spot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted February 13, 2016 Share Posted February 13, 2016 (edited) Or use a center punch at 6:00 on the face of the drum about 5/8" from the rolled edge. Then drill a 5/8" hole in the face of the drum to get to the adjustment mechanism if you can't fix it thru the backing plate. A screwdriver thru that hole should release the mechanism. Then you can re-use the drum. The hole won't hurt it a bit. I've personally used each of the techniques I'm promoting. Edited February 13, 2016 by RebekahsZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miles Posted February 13, 2016 Share Posted February 13, 2016 (edited) I am posting this link so you can see the components behind the brake drum. http://www.hammondsplains.com/newtechtips/brakes/77drum/ You can download the FSM here: http://www.xenonzcar.com/s30/reference.html I believe that on a 280Z the shoe adjustment window is located at the bottom center of the backing plate. Follow the instructions in the FSM and turn the star wheel until the brake shoes are at maximum slack. If the adjustment star wheel is all the way loose and the drum is still stuck you can beat on it with a hammer. Edited February 14, 2016 by Miles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shri2222 Posted February 15, 2016 Author Share Posted February 15, 2016 Great thanks for all the great advise I'll be giving it another go in a few days will let yall know how it turns out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtnickel Posted February 26, 2016 Share Posted February 26, 2016 One thing to remember is that the adjuster is naturally locked only turns freely in the tightening direction. The metal tab lever locks it from going looser. So to back the adjuster off you have to almost use 2 tools. one to press the metal tab away from the teeth and another to actually turn the adjuster. Good luck! I resorted to a sturdy dead blow hammer method. then i think I used a piece of hardwood on the fins (to protect aluminum) and upgraded to a metal hammer. Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miles Posted February 26, 2016 Share Posted February 26, 2016 http://www.zparts.com/tutorials/brkdrum/brkdrum_remove.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted February 27, 2016 Share Posted February 27, 2016 (edited) Well, I just went thru the same thing and got my memory refreshed. I bought a used Z that had been in storage and wouldn't roll. Jacked up each wheel and found it was the rear brakes. Tried my old trick of striking with a hammer. Got drum loose from the stub, but it was hung up on the shoes. Looked for the adjuster plug. There wasn't one. Drilled a hole thru the drum and found the cylinder. Couldn't see good enough to release the adjuster. Finally got my cutoff wheel and cut around the stub axle flange. Pried the center of the drum off. Figured out how the adjuster releases and removed to rest of the drum. Yeah, I need a new set of drums, but I got the car on the trailer. So, basically, everything I told you was wrong. I'm sorry. I thought of you the whole time I was fighting mine. Edited February 27, 2016 by RebekahsZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shri2222 Posted March 4, 2016 Author Share Posted March 4, 2016 Thanks everyone, I got the drum off. I looked again for the adjuster opening, nothing, felt were it should be was sunken in but something hard not rubber was blocking it. I then stuck the wheel back on and tried to use it's leverage to break the drum free, that worked for a half a turn. I then took a hammer and hammered up from the cooling fins of the drum to work it loose, took some time but off it came. The self adjuster was caked in brake dust, grime and rust. Remembered why I hated drum brakes, and bought a the brackets to maxima conversion now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miles Posted March 4, 2016 Share Posted March 4, 2016 (edited) Nice Edited March 4, 2016 by Miles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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