dippowit-z- Posted February 15, 2016 Share Posted February 15, 2016 Hello everyone I am currently installing a willwood brake pedal assembly in my 240. I did not get much info from willwood when I called except that the pivot point for the pedals must be a min. of 2" from the firewall. They said that pedal location should be determined by personal preference. I am shooting for matching pedal location to the stock pedal location. Has anyone done installed this pedal assemby? I would appreciate any advice. Thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
str8pipez Posted February 15, 2016 Share Posted February 15, 2016 Scroll down a few post. This might help you. https://www.facebook.com/hokeperformance/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
str8pipez Posted February 15, 2016 Share Posted February 15, 2016 NVM, you said brake. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted February 15, 2016 Share Posted February 15, 2016 Haven't done it myself but watched a friend with a 510 do it probably 20 years ago. There are quite a few different pedal assemblies, some where the masters are still in the engine compartment, some where they're now in the cabin, floor mounted, etc, so they're all different. My friend's setup had the masters inside the car and he built a frame that bolted to the stock attachment points for the stock pedal assembly. He then put in a 3/4" steering column with parts out of a circle track supplier like Coleman Racing and sat in the car to make sure he had pedals and wheel where they were comfortable, then he just triangulated and welded more braces until it was stiff enough that he could really step on it without the frame flexing. I recall he had to do a couple different modifications to make it strong enough. I modified the stock pedal box for dual masters, I know others have done that too. Not that hard to do, so if you're completely baffled by making a mount for the Wilwood assy, that's another option. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dippowit-z- Posted February 17, 2016 Author Share Posted February 17, 2016 Thanks for the replies. I built a mounting system that best matches the stock pedal location as it worked just fine for me. The pivot point is 2.5 in. away from firewall and center line came very close to stock location. I will try to attach some pics of the process. I will need to do some practicing before I weld them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dippowit-z- Posted February 17, 2016 Author Share Posted February 17, 2016 I'll try again, not sure where those pics went. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dippowit-z- Posted February 17, 2016 Author Share Posted February 17, 2016 Sorry , I'm gen x with no computer skills Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dippowit-z- Posted February 17, 2016 Author Share Posted February 17, 2016 I removed the collapsible section of the steering column and welded in a flat section in order to bring the brake pedal closer to the gas pedal as stock. The clutch pedal in turn is perfectly centered to stock location. I then mounted the foot pedal section as far right as possible. With the full cage I am guessing that if I ever need the steering column to collapse during an accident I have bigger problems. I actually did this mod years ago along with a very primitive pedal assembly mounting system. After revisiting the project years later I decided to redo the mount. I am glad that I did because I had the pedal assembly way too far forward. Not to mention the older I get the more patient I become. I am happy with the mount so hopefully it works well. Now I have to make a bracket to attach the top of the pedal assembly to the stock upper location. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dippowit-z- Posted February 17, 2016 Author Share Posted February 17, 2016 Here is the pic of the steering column mod Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted February 17, 2016 Share Posted February 17, 2016 You might want to put a dial indicator on it and check for flex, or even just have someone stand outside and look at the firewall while you really push on the pedal. What you have looks stout, but it looks like it isn't attached to anything other than the firewall, which isn't. If it's flexy, you can run some braces up to the cowl area for more support, or run a support in the engine compartment between the firewall and the strut tower or from the strut tower down to the frame rail or something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TUME Posted February 18, 2016 Share Posted February 18, 2016 My version, square tube welded between firewall and roll cage tube. Pedals are bolted into those tubes and firewall. Crappy pic, sorry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MREDDLE Posted February 18, 2016 Share Posted February 18, 2016 best thread ever Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dippowit-z- Posted February 18, 2016 Author Share Posted February 18, 2016 In my last post I mentioned making a second bracket that attaches to the top mounting holes in the pedal assembly and bolts to stock tabs that the original pedal assembly mounted to. You can actually see the tabs directly above the master cylinders in the picture. I am choosing not to attach it to the rollcage. But you are correct, it is very flimsy at this point only being mounted to the firewall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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